Milano_EH3

Me again! One more opinion/question. I have decided not to go with an LSVTEC setup. But now it is a choice between the B20VTEC and the B18C1. I'm somewhat nervous going with a Frankstein setup, maybe I either need reassurance or opinions. COST DIFFERENCES ASIDE.
Which engine truly performs better. I'm not looking for "Oh I race and beat GSRs all the time with my B20" I'm looking for good facts and justifiable opinions. This is a big decision, and I want to make a good one.
Thanks everyone!

bigblockEG

The B18C1 is a tried and proven motor. It makes great top end horsepower and and makes enough torque to get the car moving. The B18C1 is a great platform to start from. The block in factory trim can handle the abuse of 8200-8400 rpm's with no problem, sometimes even higher if your valvetrain allows. With any Frank motor, you have to worry about engine longevity. Depending on what you want the engine to do, there is not much info on long term reliabilty issues as compared to a stock configuration. The b20 has its share of oiling and revving shortcomings that can be addressed with aftermarket parts and machining. Special prep work must be done to make a vtec head fit the B20 which for racing reasons may be well worth it, but by the time you finish the CRVtec, you'd have spent a similar amount to just buy a Stock GSR that you know is reliable and built right. I personally think the proven, reliable, uniform GSR is the best choice for a swap, depending of course on what you want to do with it. Remeber that you can always upgrade the GSR with other honda and aftermarket engine components to make your set-up how you want it.(ie: stroker kit, b16/ type-r head swap, high compression pistons, aftermarkets intakes manifolds, turbos, etc.). If you crave that axle breaking torque and you want a N/A set-up, maybe the CRVtec is for you, but if I want to break axles I'm gonna boost my 1.8l. I am a GSR fan, all Honda fan, my favorite is the B18C1, or the C5.
Remember this is only my opinion, I by no means am right, just pointing out what I think to be factors that may help you make your decision.

B16CRX

Well, I am biased toward the B20VTEC since that is the setup I will be going with. However, everything bigblockEG says is right. Since you said cost aside, the biggest difference would be reliability. If built right, the B20VTEC is very reliable. The B18C1 already comes with great Honda reliability. I would say for NA, go with the B20VTEC. If you want to boost, go B18C1. I am going B20VTEC because I want to stay NA, and be able to take the car to the track to road race so the extra torque down low will definately help.
Whichever one you choose, you'll love it.

Finest

N/A or FI, the B20/VTEC would have more potential. It's true to an effect that there's no replacement for discplacement.

But then again, resleeve the B18c1 to 84mm and you have the best of both worlds!

HaUTSaauce

I would have to say as long as the CRVTEC is built right i would take it over a B18C. I say this because i have had both in my TEG Sedan i went from a SCed GSR to a N/A Torque Monster CRVTEC. Since u said cost aside i would have to say CRVTEC , but u wont go wrong either way

Kamin

waa waa jump on the bandwagon b20vtec b20vtec! (j/k love giving the b20 guys ****) anyway. if its BUILT CORRECTLY its a strong motor. but the trouble is. IF. many many variables.
i would play it safe and get a b18c and someone said it. bore it out more if you want. just have a reputable company do it

bruthaboost

Build the b20/vtec. It's not nearly as difficult as people hype it up to be, but it's not cheap. However complared to the cost of a b18c swap, you'll have more for your money. Cost break down (assuming you have a b18 already)

Block sleeved to 84 mm, honed and decked: 750
complete b16 head setup for FI (ss vavle and new springs don't risk old springs): 800
Block girdle (used, but get new bolts!) and machine work to make it fit: 225
rods and pistons: 850
Gaskets, belts, bearings, seals, fittings: 300
b18c crank: 200
Helms: 65
This puts you a little over 3k, just about the cost of a b18c, however you will have a monster b series engine. My ls/vtec just broke 4k mi this week and no probs. Idles at 750 even with the 9 lb flywheel. If you do this, go easy during the break in and don't be dissappointed at the initial performance. My car felt horrible the first 2k mi. Now it's all smiles. Next is turbo. I'm just waiting to find time to drop it in.
HTH

SiBirdie

i build my b20vtec for 3500. This alone did not count the head. My head is stock but my block is built. No need for aftermarket rods, stock b20 rods are strong and rod bolts.
this my set up in a 2000 civic si
jdm b20b
b20 rods
Je 11.8 piston
b16 tranny
clutch master stage 3
stainless steal oil return line kit. with fittings.
* new b20 head gasket *
* new gsr water & oil pump *
* new b20 timming belt or you can use a gsr *
Balance & blue print block
and using a stock b16 head

all this cost me around 3500 + labor. The * i put next to the product, those item must be brand new. As with the gridle. You dont need Gridle, Any frank motor will not last if it rev to 9k, to me if you want to play on the safe side get Itr valve spring and Ti retainer and get CTR cams. 8500rpm redline isn't high and the b20 or lsvtec can handle it.

laters


[Modified by SiBirdie, 1:39 AM 4/7/2002]

blacksheep

I'd go with the B18C1, and build it later. The C1 is an excellent engine, and definitely a good platform to start from. It can handle higher revs in a stock form, not to mention after changing out a few internal parts. Just my $.02