burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Sure we all read the FAQs and ask a bajillion questions before doing a swap but there seem to be a few facts all my advice givers and research neglected to tell me. I got my donor motor from a wrecked 2000 LS auto. Really it's the IDEAL LS swap... it's pretty hard to beat on a motor when it's linked to an automatic trans. I kept the OBDII engine harness to make things easier because everything says it'll plug right up at the shock towers.

We all know you need gear shift selector, axles, mounts, torque bracket, A/C bracket and t-bracket from a MANUAL 94+ teg. BUT nobody told me about the starter being different between auto and manual, or the flywheel cover, or the front and rear engine to trans bracing pieces. No one mentioned that since I was using a d-series speedometer sensor I needed to get a b series speedometer sensor gear for it.

Luckily all that info IS floating around out there. But there are a few key points I didn't see mentioned anywhere.

For anybody wondering...

*The fourth passenger side shock tower plug goes unplugged. Plug the other three in and forget the fourth one exists.

*ALL the plugs with the BLUE pin separator plastic inside are auto trans plugs and can go unplugged if you've swapped to manual.

*One additional plug with a WHITE pin separator that is on the branch of the OBDII B18 engine harness with two of the three auto trans plugs will also go unplugged.

*The auto LS throttle cable won't work, although it could MAYBE be rigged, auto and manual cables are different at the pedal end.

YOUR CIVIC EXHAUST AND RADIATOR WILL NOT WORK WITH A B18B1 SWAP! UNTIL AN EXHAUST SHOP OR SOMEONE WHO CAN WELD CUTS AND CLOCKS THE FLANGE. THE B SERIES FLANGE IS ANGLED LIKE / AND THE D SERIES FLANGE IS ANGLED LIKE \.

THE RADIATOR OUTLETS ARE WAY TOO SMALL FOR THE B18 OUTLETS. SINCE YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO USE A LOWER HOSE FROM A 92-95 DEL SOL SI, USE A RADIATOR FROM THE SAME.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

If you swapped from a 2000 or 2001 teg you won't have a tach signal from the distributor. You need to run a wire from the #9 pin of the harness plug at the distributor (heavy gauge dark blue wire from the dizzy on the other side of the plug) to the #4 pin of the DS shock tower plug (also the one with the blue wire)

The best way to do this is depin this wire from your old harness and use it. There are two catches to this.

First and most obviously the OBD2B pin at the distributor end is different than the pin from your EG harness, what I did was steal a pin from the ABS plug on the teg shell. I cut the wires about an inch from the pin and soldered them together then sealed with adhesive lined heatshrink.

Second the harness plug at the shock tower already has a wire in it if you took your engine from an AT car, not sure about MT. BUT this wire's not doing anything because it's going to your tach and your tach is dead. I simply depinned it, slid some adhesive lined heatshrink over the pin and sealed it off. Then you are free to pin the tach signal in and rev to the skies!

A lot of sources say you can use either MT or AT Integra axles and half shaft. THIS IS FALSE! You an use either MT or AT Integra AXLES but the half shaft MUST be from a MT Integra. AT will bolt up but it'll be off by a few mm and WILL cause the diff to bind.

wutthebun

iTrader: (2)

got any pictures? what did u do about the passenger side trans mount bracket?

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

Didn't take too many pics. Was too busy being dirty as **** LOL. Lemme know if you need to see anything and I'll gladly snap a pic.

The rear T Bracket and front torque mount bracket MUST be from a MT Integra. You can use all your civics MT mounts but the MT Integra mounts are supposed to be more robust. I had both on hand so I just used whichever mount was in better shape in every case.