99vtec_sauce

Hello all fellow honda-tech'rs. My names Mike and I'm a new member to the site though I have fallowed many articles as a guest. I have gained a ton of knowledge and experience from lots of very reputable sources. Out of all the forums I have looked and searched for answers this is the one that keeps drawing me back.

Main thing Ive learned about this site is the most info you can give about your ride and questions the better off your results are gonna be.

First off I would like to inform you that I took this 99 civic on trade mainly because it was rust free lol. It was a "non" running obd1 b18. Good news and bad news with this car.

Good:
They used hasport mounts. Woot
Was told it was running at one time.
Motor is actually really clean for 94.

Bad:
Engine harness is spliced to make shift the obd1 alt. (works and was soldered)
They did the 3 wire iacv to 2 wire iacv conversion at the iacv. (but not at ecu)
They were still running the engine off of stock p2e ecu
Dizzy was plugged in with a jumper wire from the big black wire over plug to other black wire.

So things I have done since I have owned it.
First thing was to figure out why it wouldn't start. I started with the distributor. I de-pinned the big black wire off the distributor and soldered it to the obd2 style connector and pinned it into the plug. (eliminating the make shift jumper wire to make that connection) Then tried to fire and no spark. Went to fuse panel and found typical icm/distributor 15 amp was blown. Replaced it and she fired up. Check engine codes up the wazoo and barley hanging on. Foot to the floor idled at 1500 rpms wanted to fall on its face. Shut it down then went to timing. Put it at tdc and crank was off 2 teeth. Fixed timing fired up again ran but ticked rattled and rolled. Shut it back down. Waited 12 hours and did a valve adjustment. Started purrs like a kitten. woot woot.

Now where emissions come in...
I have opted for the easiest and most logical route to get this going to pass inspection for emission. Obd2b to Obd2a main reason is the 2 wire iacv and ckf bypass trick. I have the p75-a03 plugged in using the obd2b to obd2a jumper harness. I have converted the 2 wire iacv down at the ecu plug. And I have done the ckf bypass at the ecu plug as well. Car starts up and runs fine, but after about 10 seconds it will start throwing the p1298 code and a p0115. I know p0115 is got to be o2 sensor because I dont have a second one yet. So I guess first question is my factory harness has been modified to make this swap work so are there 2 o2 sensor plugs and are they fairly close together? And how do I tell which one is upstream and which is downstream? And secondly I havent driven the car up and down the road yet so not sure if speedo works or lights dimming or anything, but still unsure of this p1298. Harness looks pretty good for what it is. Oh and also when I was running the p2e ecu, I might be mistaken, but I dont think I had the p1298. Im sorry if I posted to much info for the basic questions I had. I'm just an enthusiast at heart and want my stuff clean and right. hybrid tuning is one thing, but hybrid tuning with passion is another. Once I get everything figured out I will most likely be getting another engine harness and a obd2 ls alt. just to put my heart at ease lol. Not a fan of hacking harnesses if its not a necessity.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated and hope to make some friends locally and far. Its a hobby that's why we are all here.

HondaPartsHero

If you reset the ecu does that code come back?

If so recheck the alt wiring for continuity to the ecu and worst case replace the ELD.

The civic harness will have two 02 connections, each Will have two different wiring color combos, post them. You'll have to extend the secondary to the cat location.

99vtec_sauce

Yes I have reset the ecu several times and the code does keep coming back. I have replaced the whole main relay fuse box under the hood. Also thank you for the help and I was almost positive that the 2 plugs for the o2 sensors looked exactly the same lol. It wont be that bad to eliminate the o2 code then. Simple as lengthening the wires and plugging in an o2 sensor. Will check continuity to the ecu.

99vtec_sauce

Ok. I have checked the alt. wiring for continuity to the ecu, everything looks fine. I did notice I had a bad ground to the battery. Checked the voltage of battery when the car off and 12.5v. Started the car an only 13.3v. I fixed the ground and now the battery while running is 14.5 volts. So the bad ground isnt what caused the p1298. I am baffled on this one. I replaced the whole under hood fuse box. I also checked the engine harness for any tears or open wires that may be arcing out, and no luck. If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions that would be great. Thanks