H22A: 1.58 R/S
F20B: 1.65 R/S

 

Satan_SRV was going to do the F20B hybrid a while back. It gives a better R/S , but due to the destroked crank, you have less torque.

One's not better than the other; it's two totally different motors w/ totally different characteristics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Satan_SRV was going to do the F20B hybrid a while back. It gives a better R/S , but due to the destroked crank, you have less torque.

One's not better than the other; it's two totally different motors w/ totally different characteristics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What type of torque drop off are we talking about? Also, I here that iof you have a working H22 to stick with it, then in the next paragraph I here that and H23 Vtec will give you 230 WHP. If that is true, it looks like it would be worth it, plus kinda cheap since all you would need is the H23 Block. I do not count the new internals becaus that comes with any rebuild. What does everyone think?

 

Read the H23 VTEC thread for more info, but here's a small bit of info:

On my Desktop Dyno, if you increase the stroke on an H22's setup to the 2.3 displacement, you will only gain about 6 more horsepower at the top end of the powerband. BUT throughout the entire first half of the powerband, there is much more torque, and consequently up to about 12 HP towards the middle, IIRC.

Theoretically, if you spin the 2.2 and 2.3 crank up to the same RPM's w/ the same setup, the bigger-displacement motor will always make more horsepower. The whole point of the F20B hybrid is to make the motor capable of revving much higher; you have the chance of making more top-end power via revving, but consequentially lose torque at the lower RPM's.

 

Does anyone know if you could use an H23 Crank with H22 rods and then use a custom shorter piston so that you would have a better r/s ratio and then the pistons would not extend from the deck??? Just wondering...


Modified by Sam1am26 at 1:13 PM 4/25/2004

 

well.... it ran...
Put everything back together today... Started it up... purred... and then oil came spewing out of an AN fitting in the head... I thought it was a plug but apparently it was not... So I immediately shut off the car and then replaced the fitting with a plug... Now the car will not run ... I am confused as hell, it ran but now it will not... I'm not sure what the fitting in the head was for or if it was even stock because i bought the head used, but if anybody has any ideas let me know....

 

where is the AN fitting on the head exactly?

 

yes where is it at? There was no AN fitting needed when i did my h23vtec.

 

 

you should use the stock plug and plug it back up and see if that solves it. On my H23VTEC, the only plug we had to remove was that oil orfice on the block. I think that AN fitting was for a turbo feed line of some sort....

 

Well I did plug it up and now it does not want to start...

 

IT IS RUNNING!!!
I got it running now but the idle falls off and then it just dies... I have to hold the throttle for it to stay on... I tried adjusting the idle screw and nothing... I can't find any vacuum leaks and my IAC valve worked fine before and I even cleaned it before reassembling the manifold... So now I have this problem to fix, but hey it is better than the car not running at all... any help/ideas welcome, thanks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know if you could use an H23 Crank with H22 rods and then use a custom shorter piston so that you would have a better r/s ratio and then the pistons would not extend from the deck??? Just wondering...


Modified by Sam1am26 at 1:13 PM 4/25/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

here are the specs

5.636in * 25.4 = 143.154mm &lt;--h22
5.580in * 25.4 = 141.732mm &lt;--h23

well the h22 rod is approx 2.5 mm longer so you would have to check a stock h22 piston and see if you could move the wrist pin up 2.5 mm without compromising the strenght and ability to still have the ring landings have sufficent material and to see if the rod would clear when it was at its largest angle

 

I heard using h23 crank and H22rods/pistsons the piston will hit the top of the dome/valves..

sucks its not idleing right for you.. damn .. do a search, this happens to a lot of ppl when doing a vtec swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know if you could use an H23 Crank with H22 rods and then use a custom shorter piston so that you would have a better r/s ratio and then the pistons would not extend from the deck??? Just wondering...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you can, its been done to death.

8.655 (deck height)
5.630 (rod length)
3.740 (stroke)

8.655 - 5.630 - (3.740/2) = 1.55

Which is roughly the compression height you will need to run the H22 rods with the H23 crank.

The r/s ratio will be 143/95 = 1.505

A better set up IMO is a custom 147mm rod with a custom piston

8.655 (deck height)
5.787 (rod length)
3.740 (stroke)

8.655 - 5.787 - (3.740/2) = .998

Id actually recomend running a smaller D series .748 pin to keep the pin out of the oil ring groove. Since your going to ned a custom piston/rod anyway, going to a smaller pin is no big deal.

This set up will give you a r/s ratio of 1.547

Hope that helped


Modified by SoCalude98 at 10:42 PM 4/27/2004

 

I drove it around today... Sounds great and accelerates very smoothly... I only tried to get into VTEC one time... I don't know how strong VTEC is in 2nd gear so to be honest i might have just felt the butterflies opening but it was hauling *** i can tell you that much... I'm not too concerned about VTEC right now anyways... I still need to fix the idling problem(it will not idle on its own, it will die if i let off the gas) and now I have a CEL so i need to figure that out... grr....

 

any fuel control on those pistons?

 

cool man congrats I have been driving mine around too trying to get a cel because mine doest idle either. Itjust revs uncontrolably till I stop completly!

 

Before(H23a1 DOHC Non-VTEC)...


After(H23a1 DOHC VTEC)...



Modified by Sam1am26 at 1:33 PM 4/28/2004

 

Hey I just solved all your problems!!! U have no battery!!!! JK Good pics man!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey I just solved all your problems!!! U have no battery!!!! JK Good pics man!</TD></TR></TABLE>

GENIUS!!!! lol

check that engine code and let us know

 

That's my old JDM H22 valvecover!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check that engine code and let us know </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was just number 12, i guess I'm not gonna be blocking my EGR valve off after all... oh well, im just glad it runs...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's my old JDM H22 valvecover!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... hell yeah it is...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey I just solved all your problems!!! U have no battery!!!! JK Good pics man!</TD></TR></TABLE>


While the car wasn't running i did a few other little things to it as well



Modified by Sam1am26 at 1:47 PM 4/28/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


While the car wasn't running i did a few other little things to it as well

Modified by Sam1am26 at 1:47 PM 4/28/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats pretty money, but i bet a teg battery whould tuck in there real nicly, i use a integra battery, its smaller and lighter