wow your header looks clean compared to mine

for you completing your project.....well almost complete

 

my friend works at a chrome shop and he sanded it down cause he was gonna chrome it for me but didnt have the time yet... but he is still gonna do it for me later...

 

lets see some more photo's! definately get it tuned w/ VAFC or something .. get it done right so it runs right til you boost it.

If I got h23vtec I'll either get the H23A engine from accord SiR-t with P13 ECU and odb1 convert,using my existing H23 tranny .. OR

H22 engine , stroked with H23 crank/rods and H22 pistons. (higher comp) but n/a baby ... then VAFC to keep it runnin good.

its too much work the other way around, so many parts to change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yohan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its too much work the other way around, so many parts to change.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everybody thinks that it is too much work to build an H23 VTEC that way I am... But I don't know why... I would much rather start with a complete H23 and add the H22 parts then to start with a complete H22 and rip it apart to put in an H23 crank and rods... Things have been fairly simple so far... The only complications I have come across are bolts that didn't want to come off and breaking tools, which usually was the same incident, go figure... But I was lucky cause I got my crank pulley bolt off in like 5 seconds... whew...

 

why would somone with a h22 want to put h23 crank and rods in there motor? f20b crank and rods i could understand because of the lower r/s ratio

 

Because, you would be stroking the motor, more displacement, good *** low end torque + vtec = awesome powerband...

 

I didn't think you could drop H22 pistons into an H23 bottom end setup... the H23 wrist pin is 1mm higher at TDC compared to the H22 setup, thus necessitating wrist pin relocation.

correct me if i missed something, cuz it wouldnt work in my H23 VTEC setup I built 2 years ago... it failed the clay check, even with a Cometic MLS gasket designed to drop almost a half point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't think you could drop H22 pistons into an H23 bottom end setup... the H23 wrist pin is 1mm higher at TDC compared to the H22 setup, thus necessitating wrist pin relocation.

correct me if i missed something, cuz it wouldnt work in my H23 VTEC setup I built 2 years ago... it failed the clay check, even with a Cometic MLS gasket designed to drop almost a half point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you use H23 rods, whether stock or aftermarket, there is enough clearance...

 

looking good bro looking real good (sniff sniff ) you are my hero lol holla at cha boy getting the harness wired this week should be done this thursday good info on using the h22 pistons with the h23 block never knew that have to make a mental note of that for future build up

 

Very nice

How are you doing for the exhaust ? Since now you've got H22A headers, how can they fit on the H23A cat ? Do you run a custom test pipe ?

 

I'm currently putting a new head package on my h22, I was also thinking of the h23\h22 setup, but spent alot on the head. When you get your car running I would like to run you, Could be a good race. If you know turbo mike he can hook it up

 

I have an h22a Header with a test pipe welded in... No cat

 

Hey Whatton, I chill with Mike all the time, you and I met at Kahn's one time a while back, I don't know if you remember me though, me and Kahn were just talking about your car the other day... But yeah, as soon as I receive my new ECU, I am definitely down for a race...

 

Im trying to decide on whether an H23 vtec would be worth it. How much did all this cost you, and would you recommend it over an H22 swap?

 

Well, if you already have a complete H23, then IMO it is definitely worth it, but if you have to buy an H23 first and then buy the H22 head and all the other misc parts it costs about as much as an H22. I ended up spending a little over 1300 dollars, but I overpaid for a few things when I first started this project because I didn't look around for better prices like an idiot...

 

$1300 for parts alone? That sounds good to me. From what Ive been reading, most peoples opinion is that if you have an H23 you might as well get an H22 because making an H23VTEC would cost too much and be too much of a pain in the ***. Its good you proved all those bastards wrong. Power to the H23!!!

 

if you have a h22 keep it. If you have a H23...do it if you want to. If you have a blown H22 (like me) and you are getting a H23 for a good price (like me ) then do it.

It feels good on the butt dyno...alot of lowend torque

 

Still not together... Still waiting on parts, which sucks, this would have taken like 2 days if i had all the damn parts to begin with... I put in the new ECU today... HOPEFULLY, the remaining parts will be here by friday so I can get it running this saturday...

 

A few things I ran into....
You must either use an H22 power steering bracket or cut off a chunk of the H23 power steering bracket, but keep in mind that the bracket is made out of cast iron, I chose to cut off the piece with a sabre saw...

The dotted line shows where the metal extended, the H23 Head has an indention to accommodate for this but the H22 Head is bigger and has no room for this, so hack it off(or use an H22 bracket)...


Another issue, you must use an H22 Thermostat housing as well as the thermostat, the H23 uses a smaller thermostat so you must switch that and you must use the new thermostat housing because the systems are different on the two heads... On an H23 coolant lines flow out of the back of the head and through the intake manifold and lines run from the intake manifold to the IAC and to the thermostat, and the thermostat actually bolts to the intake manifold and the head...
On the H22 the thermostat connects directly to the side of the cylinder head underneath the vtec solenoid. You also have to change the rear water pipe because the location of the thermostat housing is different... All these parts are cheap though so its no big deal...

I had trouble changing the lower crank gear just because it didn't want to come off, but after some WD-40 and some good ole elbow grease it came off...

Everything else is pretty straight forward, you have to remember that the blocks are identical, anyone that has ever changed a head gasket on an h22 can do this...

Now... If you want to be able to rev it higher than 6800 and have it last, thats a different story... Definitely need new bearings, I would recommend some lighter, stronger, aftermarket rods and have the bottom end balanced and blue printed, Add the H22 oil squirters and you should be good for 7200-7600 RPMs, but I wouldn't recommend taking this crank to 8 grand all day long...


Modified by Sam1am26 at 12:08 AM 4/15/2004


Modified by Sam1am26 at 12:09 AM 4/15/2004

 

how much did u pay for the h22 head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGOTpinkShards &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did u pay for the h22 head</TD></TR></TABLE>

375 complete...

 

I am patiently waiting for a Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket...
The moment it gets here I can slap the intake manifold back on and crank this bitch up...
Other then that, it is ready to go...
Pretty shitty I have to wait for a gasket though.......

 

Looks good! Thanks for sharing your project here. Seems like small crap like gaskets always delay things...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord387 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would somone with a h22 want to put h23 crank and rods in there motor? f20b crank and rods i could understand because of the lower r/s ratio</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would happen if you put a F20b crank in an H22 or an H23 block? I do not have any idea if it would work or not? Just throwing and idea out there.

 

I believe that an f20 crank would give you a r/s ratio slightly better than an h22, meaning you could rev the **** out of it.... but i could be wrong...