I just replaced the engine in my 93 SRV (SI) after getting some engine work done. I replaced the engine with a H22a JDM. Now the problem I'm having is, as soon as I start the car it immediately stalls. I can keep it running by putting my foot on the gas but stalls as soon as I let off. I changed my FITV and the IACV with spares I had and it didn't change anything. I used a battery to check to see if the valve opens and it does. I disconnected the valve from the intake then started the car briefly to see if the valve opens and it does, barely. I also switched my ECU to the JDM ECU to see if that made a difference and it didn't.

Can anyone tell me what is the problem? I know that it has something to do with the IACV. It needs to be open to idle the engine and it doesn't for some reason (or at least not enough). Is there a computer idle relearn or anything?

 

Check throttle body and throttle cable.
No, there is no automatic idle reset by ECU .. you actually have to set idle manually. Helms.

 

Check to see if your vacuum lines are switched. I made the mistake of swapping my lines when i did a wire tuck... did the same thing. Started okay, moved for a minute, but the second i let off the throttle it died.

 

Yes, prob something got knocked loose or connected wrong. Many big probs can be attributed to small mistakes. I have swapped a few motors and worked with others that were new to it. They inadvertantly switch something around or forget to tighten a screw that is the ground for the ECU etc...

Check one thing at a time, don't rush it if it is something small it will be discovered. If it is a bad line or hose, use carb cleaner to help find the culprit. I dropped a motor in a car in less than a half hour and spent 45 minutes going over the connections before I found the purge switched with another connection.

Keep up the good work.

 

+1. Did any of the advice on this thread help you out? Keep us posted!

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm in the process of going over all the vacuum connections. I have to check the helms manual to confirm where everything goes. It's just weird to think that a vacuum line could effect the IACV from working properly. I figured it was just electronically controlled.

I'll check back in as I make some progress.

 

Alright so I asked a friend of mine to come over who has a 5th gen prelude (mine is a 4th gen) just to see how things compare. What I found out was that I am 99% certain that I have everything connected correctly. I'm pretty sure that my problem is timing based. Oops did I mention that I have skunk2 pro1 cams and about 11.2 to 1 compression? Anyway I compared the amount of suction his idle valves had compared to mine and they were identical. With both idle valves wide open it still doesn't get enough air to idle. I'm going to email skunk2 to see what they say and if this is common.

 

Well lol. I just read the Faq at Skunk2 and check this out:

My H22A stalls after camshaft installation

by Brian Nichols

QUESTION
------------------------------------------------------
Hello,

I have an H22a in a del sol with skunk2 pro 2 cams intake, manifold, 70mm throttlebody, valves, valve springs, retainers......etc.
I have a problem with the idle !! It won't idle.
I have to start the car with a little bit throttle then when i let go off the throttle it goes out.
There is no ecu trouble code.
ANSWER
------------------------------------------------------
Pro Series camshafts MUST be tuned on a dyno with a programmable ecu in order to run properly.

The large primary lobes of the Pro Series camshafts will result in low vacuum at idle. The factory ECU will see all this air, and attempt to add fuel to compensate. The result is a lethargic idle that runs very rich, and in many cases will cause the engine to stall completely.

In order to fix this problem you will need some form of engine management. I recommend Hondata, as their products have proven to be of very high quality at a good price. Once you get some sort of engine management, you will need to have a tuner put it on the dyno. To fix the idle they will need to trim fuel by as much as 25%-30% in the 0 - 1500 rpm region of the fuel map. This will bring the air/fuel ratio into spec and result in a proper idle. Not only will you see a much better idle, but should also see significant power and torque gains through the entire rpm range after you are tuned.

It was the first post in the engine forum...lol
Well it looks like I need to find a tuning shop. To bad I have no idea where. Anyone know a shop around London Ontario? It's a good thing I have a AEM EMS.

 

nice how you were able to find out why your car won't idle, now this should make you feel a little better about this whole idling issue.

But to go to a tuner and spend that extra amount of money just to have your car run at idle is going to hurt. Who knows how much the tuner would want from you seeing as you have the AEM Ems which would need to be fully programed. Ahh, the steps we must take to make sure our cars run right. Good luck in your tuner search.