Well, there's no problem of course, just excited about sharing my compression test results....here it is

230 230 215 215

Now, the only reason I think cylinder 3 & 4 are 215 is because we didn't have a battery charger on the car battery. It takes a lot of amps to crank the engine - and I think the battery was getting weak. So, all in all - good. Went ahead and checked the spark plugs also - look pretty good, but i can tell that i'm running rich some.

 

I have 210 across the board in my H22A1. Getting ready to sleeve her to a 2.4L.

 

Nice numbers. So when do you think the turbo will be on?

 

Just trying to save some money to do it right. I'm working on the fuel stuff right now. I'm going to pull the head maybe this weekend or so to see if my cylinders are in good shape or not. Hopefully they are so I won't have to have it bored or anything. Uh, technically, i could have everything done in two months; however, I'm trying to get the suspension and everything just right so that I can have the perfect setup. I don't have much left at all. Just talked to Anthony about coming here for a street tune once I'm done. Can't wait to see what he can do.

I don't want to just slap a turbo on my car like most other people - trying to do it the right way. Although some say i'm cutting corners by not getting it sleeved, I'm not looking for big HP. 300whp is perfectly fine for me - and I think thats a very reasonable goal on stock cylinders. The Forged internals can handle way more than what I'll be throwing at them. The key is to have a reliable, boosted, street car.

 

Definitely sounds like you are headed down the right path, build it right the first time. Also I see you are going to be running those mahle gold series pistons. Let me know how that works out. I have been kicking back and forth between an all motor setup and turbo. I think if the mahle pistons are as good as they say they are I might try to do a setup very similar to yours. So far all the recent information on them has been positive so im sure your story will be no different. Also a quick question, I saw you are going to be running saturated injectors. What ecu are u running? Do you just have to get an ecu that is set up to run saturated injectors and bypass the resistor box? Thanks

 

I'm running the hondata s300 right now. The 4th gen preludes come with a resistor box - so saturated shouldn't be a problem. It'll just be a 'regular' injector. They have fuel compensation on the hondata systems as well as all the others.

 

185 190 185 190 on my H23 w/112k miles :D

 

Solid numbers! Lookin good man.

 

anyone done a compression test on a lude that has over 220k miles on it?

 

i'll get back to you in 100k... i'll still have it. 240 240 240 240 at 123k

 

I have 221520 miles on mine, I am going to do a compression test sometime within the next week.

 

i've got the opposite result

205 210 210 220 (1 2 3 4) @ 150k

I took my head off and found that the no. 4 had more carbon build up than the others...possibly because it's right next to the EGR (which needed a good cleaning as well)

props for not forgetting about your suspension while building your monster

 

How much did it cost you to raise the compression and how much HP did you gain from it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Weather Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running the hondata s300 right now. The 4th gen preludes come with a resistor box - so saturated shouldn't be a problem. It'll just be a 'regular' injector. They have fuel compensation on the hondata systems as well as all the others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you plan on using saturated injectors on your fourth gen, you need to remove and rewire the resistor box. you cant just plug and play saturated injectors in a fourth gen obd1 lude.

Just dont want you to blow ish up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syntax420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you plan on using saturated injectors on your fourth gen, you need to remove and rewire the resistor box. you cant just plug and play saturated injectors in a fourth gen obd1 lude.

Just dont want you to blow ish up </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate that. Thats definately something I didn't know. I'll look further into it though. Thanks.