Well, after working on changing clutch and flywheel for about a week and a half, I finally got everything put back together today. At first, the clutch would not disengage and would creep backwards while in reverse. The clutch fluid was completly bled, and I adjusted the clutch pedal to the max before the rod comes out of the pedal. It will go into gears now and not creep, but the engagement point is still at most .5" off the floor. This isn't the worst though, I saw an odd smoke as I was closing the hood for a test drive. Looked under the car because I had a suspicion. The rear main seal I replaced is leaking through the clutch cover and got all over the flywheel. (Fidanza 8lb.) Hopefully it didn't get on the clutch, but I'm guessing that's what the smoke was, a little oil on the clutch. Two questions:

1.) How far is the rear main seal supposed to be recessed into the seal plate? I had it flush in the plate. Also, I wiped a little oil on the inner seal like the manual calls for and put just a tad hondaond on the outer of the seal as it looked like a green gasket type maker was on there previously.

2.) What other reasons would have the engagement point so low? Fliud was bled, and pedal adjusted to the max. I'm pretty sure the throwout bearing was on there right, and I know the release fork it ok. It's like it couldn't build enough pressure for the new clutch. (Competition Clutch Stage 4)

 

I'd make sure to get rid of all the old hondabond next time before installing, and I didn't use any there, and I've never had problems like that.

It sounds like you're adjusting the clutch pedal incorrectly.

If the engagement point is too close to the floor, and the hydraulics are all fine, then you need to adjust the rod so that it is shorter between the mc and the locking nut, in other words, screw it down so more of it is poking out behind the nut.

 

Hmm, I guess I'll try the rod the other direction next time. I guess I don't mean engagement point is .5" about the floor, that's the point where it will first start to move the car. Maybe this is normal for a new clutch, since my old oem one was pretty much turned into a sheet of glass. Also, did you recess the seal into the seal plate at all, and how far? I just gently tapped around mine with a block of wood until it was flush with the plate, but I'm thinking it shold maybe go in further.

 

I've installed 3 CC Stage 4 clutches, and I use one in my track car. Clutch engagement was always normal right out of the box. Nothing different about it.

No Hondabond on the rear main. I've never used it, and I haven't had a problem yet. There is supposed to be a slight gap between the plate and the back of the seal (look in the Helms), but I usually end up bottoming out the seal on the back plate. I've never had any problems with rear mains when I've done this, and I've done more than I care to remember.

 

Hmm, that's probally my problem about the rear main seal, I just made it flush against the outside of the plate. What did you use to push it back further and still stay even?? As for the engagement point, the only thing I can think of is that the fork and bearing got crooked somehow while installing the transmission. I'll see what the wear markings from the bearing on the new pressure plate look like to see if it looks uneven.