ok so the h22a motor decided to make this noise, sounds like the lifters, but only 1, its a pretyt loud tick tick tick, it makes the sound when its idling or NOT underload.
I was going to open up the rocketcover but its been a pretty windy and wet day today. but what are some things to look out for?.

not sure what else to ask, might just ask as the thread progressors.

thanks pimps.




Modified by vtk94lude at 7:55 PM 7/10/2004

 

you might just need a valve adjustment

 

i do hope so.

 

I have the same. Only one is ticking really loud and it's not the matter of the valve adjustment. I think a lifter is gone a bit but cams are ok- no scratches or such.
Keep us informed what's up.

 

Well just took the oil sump, oil pump thing, the tray undernear, and took out the 4thpiston bottom half of the conrod, dropped that peice, and took out the bearings. pretty rooted i must say, i didnt take out the other bearings, even though they sound fine, im sure they are on there last days as well. so ill be changin them one by one. eventhing else under there looks fine.

since i've got the lude on jack stands, ill be doing it lying down, and i guess itll take years to put the bearings back in , especially piston #2.

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Modified by vtk94lude at 1:46 AM 7/20/2004


Modified by vtk94lude at 1:49 AM 7/20/2004


Modified by vtk94lude at 1:50 AM 7/20/2004

 

my questions, how many Nm to i have to do the conrod bolts back up?

the motor has done 230,000kms (bout 130,000 miles).

 

47N.m pal

 

oh and you should know, after replacing a H-series engine's rod bearing you should idle the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then you give it another 15min of idle'in, just to let everything seat.

Are you going to change your oil to a non-synthetic one?

 

i've been using Castrol 10w-60 for some time, previously been using Mobile 5w-10.

so im guessing I should use non sythetic oil? and something thicker? advice plz


and yes im doing it all my self, and my mate who's a mechanic alwasy double checks everything or is there if i get stuck. its the best way to learn about the motor/car it self. ohh did i mention the amount of $$$$ i save from labour?

 

You described the sound my motor was making to a T. I thought it was valves either bent, broke, or way out of adjustment. When I got the head off the #1 cylinder wall was scarred bad. I skipped a ring out and it melted to another ring. Hope this isn't what happened to you!

 

did you use your car with oil in it? I built my 93 vtec and I raced it all the time and my bearings didnt have near that much damage, they look terrible, and the heat from them...whew, what did you do to that motor?

 

I never said anything about my bearings, I sprayed to long that's all there was to it! Melted **** down. I sent it to Golden Eagle to have it sleeved and JE pistons with H beam rods put in. All forged, I went with the 11.5 to 1 compression. The head is being done by KMS engine development. It's getting a stage two port job. I'm running crower stainless steel valves, Kms springs with specific seat pressure dual valvesprings and tit retainers. I'm not going above the redline anyways. I've got crower stage 2's ready to drop in. I'm excited as hell. Golden eagle is building the whole block with a micro polish on the crank and all new bearings. It's should be a bad mother all motor when it gets tuned. I've got the vafc and haven't decided what I'm going to use to get peak potential out of this yet because of the atts. I'm keeping it and might just get emanage. When my prospeed header gets here I will make good power I just know it.

 

not to hijack the thread, but, excellent pics, nice camera

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtk94lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've been using Castrol 10w-60 for some time, previously been using Mobile 5w-10.

so im guessing I should use non sythetic oil? and something thicker? advice plz


and yes im doing it all my self, and my mate who's a mechanic alwasy double checks everything or is there if i get stuck. its the best way to learn about the motor/car it self. ohh did i mention the amount of $$$$ i save from labour?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

For what you have been usings, the Mobil 5w10 weight oil is a little too fine. ideally you want an oil between 10w to 20w; and once the new bearings are in it MUST be non-synth as previously mentioned. Also when the oil is too thin and you have the stock oil pump gear then in the high rpms you're putting a big strain on the oil pump trying to keep pressure up with such a thin oil.

You use a mineral based i.e. non-synthetic when you replace bearings, cams or on a freshly build engine. What the synthetics generally do is leave a microfilm of anti-friction additives on the metal surfaces. Now this is good if the engine had been run in correctly but in your case you are changing the rod bearings so you don't want that. By using a mineral oil; you dont have these formulated anti-friction additives. So the bearings will 'seat' correctly (using the twin 15min idleing proceedure) then you can change back to synth in 2,000 to 3,000 miles which is when everything will have seated correctly.

It's good to see your a hands on person, the only advice I need to ive you is Take you Time, and BE SURE of everything before you do anything.

<u>Ordering Bearings</u>

On each of the con rod there is a 'number' code indicatiing the connecting rod bore diameter, this is stamped on the side of each rod and cap.

You Will also need the conrod Journal diameter codes (which are in 'Letters'). These are stamped on the crankshafts counterweights next to the relevant journal.

Write down these codes and their position in relation to each end of the crankshaft. Same with the relevant codes from the rods.

You will use BOTH codes when you go to your local dealership for bearings.

 

Oh do you have the specs for bearing clearences?
Ive gotta go out for an hour but Ill be back and typeup how you check the clearences, identify other issues relevant and digout a bearing chart I think I have somewhere

 

yes yes, that would be great. i will be picking up the parts on Friday from the local Honda dealershipl will get to work on saturday/sunday... pedning weather.

thanks for the info above, jsut 2 questions:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On each of the con rod there is a 'number' code indicatiing the connecting rod bore diameter, this is stamped on the side of each rod and cap.

You Will also need the conrod Journal diameter codes (which are in 'Letters'). These are stamped on the crankshafts counterweights next to the relevant journal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The letters on the crankshaft..... where do i find this?, as i havnt' taken my motor apart. i'm working from the bottom (ie. taken teh sump off only)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtk94lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes yes, that would be great. i will be picking up the parts on Friday from the local Honda dealershipl will get to work on saturday/sunday... pedning weather.

thanks for the info above, jsut 2 questions:


The letters on the crankshaft..... where do i find this?, as i havnt' taken my motor apart. i'm working from the bottom (ie. taken teh sump off only)</TD></TR></TABLE>

say your looking at the conrod journal on the crankshaft, then just to the side of that on the textured metal the code is stamped. Its not stamped on the actual counterweight sorry (misleading you there, my bad) but next to the journal, Have a look around youll see them, Just make sure you've put the caps and bearings back in and just 'nipped' them up (i.e. lightly tightened) before you manually turn the crankshaft so you can read the others.
Its good idea is to have four boxes/containers so you can label which piston they came from, also dont forget to write the various codes etc down onto a bit of paper numbered 1-4 for each cylinder with the info you got from the rods and crank etc.

and FYI to manually turn the crankshaft, remove spark plugs and remove front left wheel and use 19mm socket and long extension to turn the crankshaft. Theres a little hole in the splash guard that lets you access the crank pulley with the socket.

Ill put the specs and stuff on the bearings up tomorrow, just got back form work now and gona get some shuteye b4 work

 

gee i thought it was jsut as simple as going down to Honda, getting 4 new bearings for the h22a1, and away I go.

ill take another look at it tommorow.

 

Right so using a Plastigage, you need to measure rod bearing oil clearence to see if it is in spec. hmm

If the oil clearence is incorrect, install a new bearing set (same colour code) and again measure oil clearence. You shouldn't shim of file the cap to adjust oil clearence (just to clarify).

If the oil clearence is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing. You need to measure oil clearence again. If proper oil clearece cannot be obtained by using a larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and repeat the procedure.

Heres the table you'll figure it out from here.


oh and as general advice when you're re-installing the oil pan, You need to clean the gasket surfaces like with h/d tissue paper that has a drop of oil onto it so you can wipe any debris away along the gasket. Before you install it you need to apply a non-hardening sealant to front and rear of gasket where the curved area mates with the side rail surfaces of the oil pan gasket. Make sure you tighten the bolts to spec and in the correct sequence.
As the saying goes do you want to become a mechanic or an Engineer?


This'll help you get it moving again!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtk94lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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man that rod bearing is fucked, you have some nice pictures but fromthe scoring onthe bearing it looks like your crank may have taken some damage, check the connecting rod journal on the crank

 

ok took some pictures, this to me looks like the journal, the shape/slant of that section of da crank matches the diagram OTT posted up.

Is this what im looking for?
ALSO, those bars taht go along the bottom of the motor, can i unbolt those? for easier access or do these hold up the crank? i havn't inspected where these bolts acutally go into yet, thought i might ask here first, and also if its safe to un do them, what Nm do i do them up at?


OTT very helpful diagrams, I just hope Im looking at the right bit.

 

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pics of the underneath, just for the record.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

man that rod bearing is fucked, you have some nice pictures but fromthe scoring onthe bearing it looks like your crank may have taken some damage, check the connecting rod journal on the crank </TD></TR></TABLE>

As I previously mentioned

You change to a larger bearing of the same color code then if that isnt right then one size smaller than the original bearing, If you cant get the correct oil clearense with any of the 4x rod bearings then you replace the crankshaft and start again!

This identifies if a rod journal is out of round. I would personally suggest trying bearings first but if you look at the picture below you'll see what appears to be pitting. I cannot say for sure as it is just a photograph and the horizontal lines and pit mars may be jusy debris from the scored bearings reflecting light. Otherwise if you wipe the journal with some h/d tissue paper and find the marks are still there then it would appear the worse possible scenario has occured and your crankshaft is in need of being replaced.
Like I said though I would definitly try new bearings and see if you can obtain correct oil clearence with different bearings. This would save you a great deal of hassle and you can run the motor in on mineral oil ad hopefully everything will seat correctly.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtk94lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok took some pictures, this to me looks like the journal, the shape/slant of that section of da crank matches the diagram OTT posted up.

Is this what im looking for?
ALSO, those bars taht go along the bottom of the motor, can i unbolt those? for easier access or do these hold up the crank? i havn't inspected where these bolts acutally go into yet, thought i might ask here first, and also if its safe to un do them, what Nm do i do them up at?


OTT very helpful diagrams, I just hope Im looking at the right bit.
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Yes that is what you are looking for, on most of the pictures the view is blocked by the 'main bearing cap bridge', You should not bother unbolting the main bearing cap bridge as it may not be necassary and if you do unbolt it you will then be laiden with the task of supporting the crank by the counterweights and aslo torquing the cap bridge's 10 bolts in two stages and frankly its just work you dont need to do. You should remove other rod caps thrugh the limited clearence you have using an extension. Remember to keep caps and bearings seperate for each piston.

 

any updates??

 

i do h22s all day and you got a case of crank balance you need you drop the crank and get it spun