Back from the Dyno...
01 base milano, bodykits nw mugen replica body kit, body kits nw cf hood, skunk2 exhaust, injen cai, greddy header, aem pulleys, ngk msd ignition, full sony system,ace spades 17x7, mugen suspension on the way from king, blah blah, I would like to someday just have 270 na, nothing near gude h23/ imagine if you dropped this motor in a hatch.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For real, h23 is where its at yOO.
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yeah...
anyway..
Im still waiting on my engine to be completed.
/sigh
H22A low compression boosted goodness.
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yeah...
anyway..
Im still waiting on my engine to be completed.
/sigh
H22A low compression boosted goodness.
gude:
just be warned... my brother's factory axel went out, and got some Driveshaft Shop Stage two, suppose to be good to 400 HP. His very first run, did the burn out, pulls up to the tree... goes green and "CLANK". broke right at the threads for the hub. He's only pushin 280 at the wheels. So if you go with a set of their axels, make sure you get a stage higher than you need! Atleast that's the way it's seeming to me
just be warned... my brother's factory axel went out, and got some Driveshaft Shop Stage two, suppose to be good to 400 HP. His very first run, did the burn out, pulls up to the tree... goes green and "CLANK". broke right at the threads for the hub. He's only pushin 280 at the wheels. So if you go with a set of their axels, make sure you get a stage higher than you need! Atleast that's the way it's seeming to me
OEM headgasket? WTF?
I didn't think the stock one would handle that sort of power increase? Have you thought of going thicker or at least a metal one?
And is your polished crank an OEM one? or aftermarket?
I didn't think the stock one would handle that sort of power increase? Have you thought of going thicker or at least a metal one?
And is your polished crank an OEM one? or aftermarket?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arch-Angel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM headgasket? WTF?
I didn't think the stock one would handle that sort of power increase? Have you thought of going thicker or at least a metal one?
And is your polished crank an OEM one? or aftermarket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock gasket is a 3 piece metal gasket am not running one but they will hold much more whp then 400hp
i know is has to have a stock oem crank
I didn't think the stock one would handle that sort of power increase? Have you thought of going thicker or at least a metal one?
And is your polished crank an OEM one? or aftermarket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock gasket is a 3 piece metal gasket am not running one but they will hold much more whp then 400hp
i know is has to have a stock oem crank
Yep, stock metal headgaskets for the h23a are pretty durable. XES pushes over 550whp on a stock one also. I run a stock OEM crank that has been polished.
Thanks for the heads up about the axles, I will most likely purchase the stage 5 drive shaft shop axles.
Thanks for the heads up about the axles, I will most likely purchase the stage 5 drive shaft shop axles.
gude,
I think you should test out those gator axels. I think there alot cheaper then the stage 5 dss, and that way if the hold up good on your car i know which ones to get later.
I think you should test out those gator axels. I think there alot cheaper then the stage 5 dss, and that way if the hold up good on your car i know which ones to get later.
Did u get teh new thicker rad cause u were havin probs overheating on an OEM rad? Or did u just get it cause its nice.
Just wonderin if im gonna have to look into one of those soon as well.
Just wonderin if im gonna have to look into one of those soon as well.
The overheating problems I had last year was due to a blown headgasket (ignition issues). The OEM one I had worked just fine. I only got the fluidyne because I got a kick *** deal on it... plus it looks better


