89D15CRXDX

OK, I have my D15B2 engine block and I put an A6 head on it. Problem is is that my D15B2 piston rings are shot. I replaced the rings and apparently didn't align them correctly because when I reassembled it, it was still burning oil. I pulled the head and it's at the machine shop. Now all four pistons have oil at the top of them so I narrowed it down to this. My pistons are perfect circumference and my bore size is correct. I have the Haynes manual with a diagram of how to arrange the piston ring gaps. Problem is is that I can barely understand it. To get this straight, the rings that control and contain the oil in the bore are the three lower rings correct? Well, can ANYONE tell me where the two side rail gaps need to be on the piston so that I don't have any oil passing by them? Because this seems to be the problem here. Here is the diagram from the book but it says that C (one of the compression rings) need to be one inch either side of the piston pin centerline. While D (oil ring side rails) need to be on one inch either side of the pin centerline. How should I arrange the oil ring side rails? I'm not stupid just wondering because there are two C's and only one D and the D is in the center of the back of the piston (aligned with the pin centerline). Also, if these aren't aligned correctly, it would allow oil past the pistons and into the combustion chamber right? Please, I'm racking my brain on this and I have one of my pistons with the rings on it sitting right here. ANY help is GREATLY appreciated.

89D15CRXDX

To add this, as of right now, I re-aligned them with the oil ring side rails also at the C position (with them at one inch either side of the piston pin) with the spacer's gap in the A position. The middle compression ring is also in the C position and the top ring is in the B position. Is this what they meant by that diagram?

colnago

how many miles did you put on it when you took it apart after the rering job? Also when you reringed it before did you redo head, why are you redoing head again. how many miles are on engine, because you also need to rehone cylinders with a stone preferably 400 grit to help rings seat and to lubricate them during running so they don't heat up. The crosshatch pattern on cylinder walls is for oil retention to lubricate the rings, no crosshatch no lubrication rings will not last very long. Also are you running the appropriate ecu with the new head, because if you are not your fuel mixture will be off and increase oil consumption will happen. As for position of rings, I put top 2 rings facing intake, right in middle of space between piston pin and top of piston facing intake, One ring either side is fine. The bottom three, rails and spacer face exhaust, I usually use one side inbetween piston pin and center of piston facing exh. just make sure none of the gaps align, spacer gap should be in middle and oil ring rails gap should be 15 degrees either side of spacer gap. Remember the rings actually turn during operation. Also through experience make sure cylinder walls are dry of oil, them spray with wd-40 as well as the piston rings on piston. better than using oil. Trust me. Also make sure the rings are postioned with the right side up, there should be marks telling you which side goes up, and measure endgap with rings 15-20mm from top of bore.

89D15CRXDX

I only ran about one tank through it so about 300 miles. Also, I did hone the cylinder before I installed the pistons. I didn't redo the head when I put it on so that's why I took it to have it done now because honestly I thought that maybe a crack may have been in there somewhere and I also thought that it might have had something to do with the valve seals or valve guides but for it to burn damn near four quarts of oil in 300 miles through the exhaust seems a little far fetched. The car was burning oil so bad it would smoke ALL THE TIME. No matter what throttle position (wide open or idle). Also, I am running a PM6 ECU because the D15B2 block has a D16A6 head and MPFI swap. Also, I took the rings back off of the pistons and MAYBE the marks MIGHT have worn off already in 300 miles (which is less time than it takes to break in a newly rebuilt engine) and there are NO marks on them whatsoever. I don't even remember there being marks on them from the box. They were NPR rings and I got them off of ebay. I should also add that the car ran EXCELLENTLY and started on the first crank with no misses or hesitation. It ran better than the newly installed Jasper engine in my Jimmy that cost me $2500.

colnago

Are these oem pistons, and Im assuming your doing this with engine in car. Do yourself a favor and buy honda rings. They are the best. I'm assuming your motor is stock bore. Go to hondaautomotiveparts. com they are cheap there. It sounds to me like the rings were the problem. If your valve seals were leaking car would blow blue smoke out of exhaust at first start up in morning. The top two rings should have marks on them. The oil rings and spacer do not. The top rings placement is very important. if put in upside down, will have problems. i would buy OEM rings, clean cylinder walls very good, measure end gap (use piston to square ring in bore), install in position I stated(mark top of piston will sharpie makes alignment easier),use a quality ring compressor, wd-40(trust me) rings and bore. You should be fine. Done it like this with absolutely no oil burning what so ever. My ring position was taken out of a factory helms manual for honda. when I honed my cylinder I used a portable hone attached to drill and went up and down a few times semi fast to try to make 60 degree hone pattern. You can get stones at auto parts store in 400 grit. Be careful though you can remove allot of material off if you do it to long, your just trying to remove glaze from walls.
Honda rings

89D15CRXDX

I am going to do that but...OEM0090 $127.68 for OEM rings...yeah...right. That's more than I paid for both of my sets of rings combined.

colnago

If the rings are standard or .25 os 22.15=88.60 not including shipping. Hey, try bernardiparts.com. They are a little cheaper than majestic. quality cost money, and look you save money in the long run because you don't have to due job twice.