Jerking Feeling
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Jerking Feeling
1990 Honda CRX Si
Stock d16a6
Mods:
-Short ram piece of crap that I didn't put on. (Cheapo)
-The worst exhaust system you've ever heard. (Homemade)
-Some no name 4-2-1 header, that I did not put on.
Ok so I buy this car for 850 bucks. Which isn't bad in my opinion seeing as it runs.
Ok so I fixed the water temp sensor located on the head because the car was running like crap cause the wires had broken off.
I fixed the shifter, it was loose as mess and felt like it was gonna fall off.
I cleaned everything on the IM, Meaning I took everything apart on the IM, sat it on some towels and cleaned it like no tomorrow.
So New IM gasket.
New PCV Valve.
Replaced thermostat, just cause its a cheap replacement.
So heres the issue.
I start the car and it drives fine, then after a while maybe 10 mins of driving or 7 the engine light comes on.
The car has a small change of attitude then it jerks/ bucks while driving steady.
at 70mph+ you can feel it but anywhere below that your passenger is like whats that.
Now when I try to pull the code on the car. Its not there, no codes.
I even tried letting the car die while its on (releasing the clutch to kill it) and tried to get codes and nothing.
The engine light comes on every drive. But is always deleted after the car is turned off.
????
I know for the most part my O2 sensor is bad, but could that be the reason for all this?
Edit: The guy I bought it from said it was bad or something like that.
Some one give me some Jedi wisdom please?
*I checked the blinking light on the OBD0 Ecu, its a constant blinking*
I guess that's what its suppose to do.
Stock d16a6
Mods:
-Short ram piece of crap that I didn't put on. (Cheapo)
-The worst exhaust system you've ever heard. (Homemade)
-Some no name 4-2-1 header, that I did not put on.
Ok so I buy this car for 850 bucks. Which isn't bad in my opinion seeing as it runs.
Ok so I fixed the water temp sensor located on the head because the car was running like crap cause the wires had broken off.
I fixed the shifter, it was loose as mess and felt like it was gonna fall off.
I cleaned everything on the IM, Meaning I took everything apart on the IM, sat it on some towels and cleaned it like no tomorrow.
So New IM gasket.
New PCV Valve.
Replaced thermostat, just cause its a cheap replacement.
So heres the issue.
I start the car and it drives fine, then after a while maybe 10 mins of driving or 7 the engine light comes on.
The car has a small change of attitude then it jerks/ bucks while driving steady.
at 70mph+ you can feel it but anywhere below that your passenger is like whats that.
Now when I try to pull the code on the car. Its not there, no codes.
I even tried letting the car die while its on (releasing the clutch to kill it) and tried to get codes and nothing.
The engine light comes on every drive. But is always deleted after the car is turned off.
????
I know for the most part my O2 sensor is bad, but could that be the reason for all this?
Edit: The guy I bought it from said it was bad or something like that.
Some one give me some Jedi wisdom please?
*I checked the blinking light on the OBD0 Ecu, its a constant blinking*
I guess that's what its suppose to do.
Last edited by KenJoTuning; 05-10-2012 at 10:44 AM. Reason: More Stuff
#2
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Jerking Feeling
1.) The car can be running when you read the codes...
2.) Ok, if the LED is blinking - what are the codes, obviously...
3.) Some signs point to the O2 sensor. Most likely they bought a header that is designed for a heated O2 sensor. Where is the location of the O2 sensor bung.
Regardless, it would really help to know what the CEL is.
2.) Ok, if the LED is blinking - what are the codes, obviously...
3.) Some signs point to the O2 sensor. Most likely they bought a header that is designed for a heated O2 sensor. Where is the location of the O2 sensor bung.
Regardless, it would really help to know what the CEL is.
#3
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Re: Jerking Feeling
My guess is that the code is the O2 sensor. The code is just a single blink. From your description "its a constant blinking" it seems to indicate that the ECU is trying tell you that you have a bad/faulty O2 sensor.
#4
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Re: Jerking Feeling
If there is a code its code 1.
Cause its a constant quick beep over and over.
As far as the O2 location its on the Header inside engine bay next to radiator fan.
Where there almost no clearance between the fan and the Header.
And there's a bung on the bottom to but its bolted over.
So as for codes, I turn the car on (just power) It blinks at a constant 1.2 second blink,
but its a quick blink,
and when the car is running it does the same thing.
Edit:
If you have no codes what so ever, Will the red light still blink on the ECU at all?
Cause when the car has a check engine light, and I turn the car off and back on, the car doesn't remember the
code.
If this is about an O2 sensor, would the car really act like the statement above all because of the O2 sensor?
Cause its a constant quick beep over and over.
As far as the O2 location its on the Header inside engine bay next to radiator fan.
Where there almost no clearance between the fan and the Header.
And there's a bung on the bottom to but its bolted over.
So as for codes, I turn the car on (just power) It blinks at a constant 1.2 second blink,
but its a quick blink,
and when the car is running it does the same thing.
Edit:
If you have no codes what so ever, Will the red light still blink on the ECU at all?
Cause when the car has a check engine light, and I turn the car off and back on, the car doesn't remember the
code.
If this is about an O2 sensor, would the car really act like the statement above all because of the O2 sensor?
Last edited by KenJoTuning; 05-10-2012 at 12:58 PM. Reason: More Stuff
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#9
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Jerking Feeling
$20 goes a long ways? It gets you 1/2 a gallon of gas, pack of smokes, and a tootsie roll.
If you have a multi-meter you can check the wiring and the O2 voltage to see if it's bad before you replace it. Although, as long as everything else is fine - the O2 is most likely bad.
The O2 location described is correct, closest to the cylinder head, no further than around 12" away. If a non-heated O2 is put down by the catalytic converter it will not heat up enough to properly send acceptable signals to the ECU. Thus throwing a code.
If you have a multi-meter you can check the wiring and the O2 voltage to see if it's bad before you replace it. Although, as long as everything else is fine - the O2 is most likely bad.
The O2 location described is correct, closest to the cylinder head, no further than around 12" away. If a non-heated O2 is put down by the catalytic converter it will not heat up enough to properly send acceptable signals to the ECU. Thus throwing a code.
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