ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
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ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
did the obd1 conversion. used a ZERG industries ecu jumper.
everything was fine all today.
i had my exhaust installed and they also had to do some cutting and welding on it while it was on the car.
drove to my college, turned on my lights and everything went super dim. i couldnt see ANYTHING.
i turned on a side road and this is what happened.
pics are from this morning
i had it grounded to the bolt on the seat rail
everything was fine all today.
i had my exhaust installed and they also had to do some cutting and welding on it while it was on the car.
drove to my college, turned on my lights and everything went super dim. i couldnt see ANYTHING.
i turned on a side road and this is what happened.
pics are from this morning
i had it grounded to the bolt on the seat rail
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
As resistance increases, the temperature will go up. This is because the same amount of electrons have to pass through a smaller surface area, and there is increased "friction".
In this case that ground cable looks pitiful and it was grounded to a seat bolt which is a horrible ground spot. (painted surfaces and the seat bracket is held on with a few spot welds). Also the longer the cable, the more resistance, so make the ground cable as short as reasonably possible.
Try something like this (scratch off the paint) and attach to a major structural panel of the vehicle.
In this case that ground cable looks pitiful and it was grounded to a seat bolt which is a horrible ground spot. (painted surfaces and the seat bracket is held on with a few spot welds). Also the longer the cable, the more resistance, so make the ground cable as short as reasonably possible.
Try something like this (scratch off the paint) and attach to a major structural panel of the vehicle.
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
As resistance increases, the temperature will go up. This is because the same amount of electrons have to pass through a smaller surface area, and there is increased "friction".
In this case that ground cable looks pitiful and it was grounded to a seat bolt which is a horrible ground spot. (painted surfaces and the seat bracket is held on with a few spot welds). Also the longer the cable, the more resistance, so make the ground cable as short as reasonably possible.
Try something like this (scratch off the paint) and attach to a major structural panel of the vehicle.
In this case that ground cable looks pitiful and it was grounded to a seat bolt which is a horrible ground spot. (painted surfaces and the seat bracket is held on with a few spot welds). Also the longer the cable, the more resistance, so make the ground cable as short as reasonably possible.
Try something like this (scratch off the paint) and attach to a major structural panel of the vehicle.
**** was scarin me last night. and the thought of a fire scared me even more
thanks for the helpful input
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
That panel probably works fine, but as I recall, the stock ground location is at the thermostat grounding point.
Thermostat ground is on the engine block which is a solid ground. On the body panel you deal with spot welds and seam filler which aren't very solid by comparison.
You may want to run the ground to both places - run wire to thermostat ground and tap into the wire to make a panel ground as well.
Odd that the jumper harness just doesn't use the stock wiring to make this connection.
it's already there for the OBD0 ECU to use so why did they give you a spare wire to make the connection yourself???
Thermostat ground is on the engine block which is a solid ground. On the body panel you deal with spot welds and seam filler which aren't very solid by comparison.
You may want to run the ground to both places - run wire to thermostat ground and tap into the wire to make a panel ground as well.
Odd that the jumper harness just doesn't use the stock wiring to make this connection.
it's already there for the OBD0 ECU to use so why did they give you a spare wire to make the connection yourself???
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
That panel probably works fine, but as I recall, the stock ground location is at the thermostat grounding point.
Thermostat ground is on the engine block which is a solid ground. On the body panel you deal with spot welds and seam filler which aren't very solid by comparison.
You may want to run the ground to both places - run wire to thermostat ground and tap into the wire to make a panel ground as well.
Thermostat ground is on the engine block which is a solid ground. On the body panel you deal with spot welds and seam filler which aren't very solid by comparison.
You may want to run the ground to both places - run wire to thermostat ground and tap into the wire to make a panel ground as well.
i had the vtec grounded there and something else
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
VERY weird that a ground would blow a fuse.
That could be because of your poor grounding to under the seat, but maybe not.
Is your block grounded well?
There is a strap that goes from the transmission to the chassis that provides the ground for the thermostat housing.
Is your battery in the stock location?
That could be because of your poor grounding to under the seat, but maybe not.
Is your block grounded well?
There is a strap that goes from the transmission to the chassis that provides the ground for the thermostat housing.
Is your battery in the stock location?
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
Now I see you most likely have a wiring issue. Between the ecu and the ground causing you to blow fuses i would be checking over every wire, and the conversion harness. I would also find out why the grounds are causing fuses to blow, and try to fix this stuff.
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
VERY weird that a ground would blow a fuse.
That could be because of your poor grounding to under the seat, but maybe not.
Is your block grounded well?
There is a strap that goes from the transmission to the chassis that provides the ground for the thermostat housing.
Is your battery in the stock location?
That could be because of your poor grounding to under the seat, but maybe not.
Is your block grounded well?
There is a strap that goes from the transmission to the chassis that provides the ground for the thermostat housing.
Is your battery in the stock location?
i have the trans ground to chassis. valve cover to chassis. and i also have a ground on the chassis to the battery.
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
**ok just went outside to check i have the ecu grounded to the thermostat already and whenever i added the vtec ground to it, it would blow.
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
i ran the ground wire straight to the firewall where a bolt went and i secured it there.
started up just fine, but it does that whenever you turn on the headlights, blinkers, high beams etc.
where is the headlight relay located?
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
I deleted that post...
sorry.
I didn't catch that you had the ELD code.
Found this and it seems related to what you have going on
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/91-civic-eld-code-20-burnt-up-my-alternator-2941237/
sorry.
I didn't catch that you had the ELD code.
Found this and it seems related to what you have going on
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/91-civic-eld-code-20-burnt-up-my-alternator-2941237/
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
I deleted that post...
sorry.
I didn't catch that you had the ELD code.
Found this and it seems related to what you have going on
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2941237
sorry.
I didn't catch that you had the ELD code.
Found this and it seems related to what you have going on
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2941237
saying as that i juts replaced the fusebox and the code still came, i think the alternator is fried.
it got it used from a friend to get the car started and running.
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
fixed the problem. ran a couple more grounds in the engine bay.
man i cannot stress enough how much that trans to chassis ground is
man i cannot stress enough how much that trans to chassis ground is
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
BUMP
ran into another problem.
replaced the grounds again. lights and everything work.
now when i first start it up, it goes to 3k and bounces. like in limp mode. wtf would cause that?
ran into another problem.
replaced the grounds again. lights and everything work.
now when i first start it up, it goes to 3k and bounces. like in limp mode. wtf would cause that?
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Re: ECU ground got too hot, melted plastic, power went VERY low (pics)
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