squeezing more power from a b20z
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squeezing more power from a b20z
hello everyone.
does anyone know what the best way to squeeze a little more power out of the b20z without putting vtec or a turbo on it? i/h/e? is that all you can rly do?
does anyone know what the best way to squeeze a little more power out of the b20z without putting vtec or a turbo on it? i/h/e? is that all you can rly do?
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Re: squeezing more power from a b20z
I have crower 403 cams with springs an retainers as well as an intake... Still bogs at take off tho. Was thinking headers, exhaust and a tune...
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#9
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Re: squeezing more power from a b20z
That sucks wish i had funds and do a j swap with pilot 4wd system lol that should add some horses right ? And get rid of looking for extra hp. Lol
#14
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Re: squeezing more power from a b20z
theres plenty of bolt ons that will work.
The engine is basically an air pump. The more air you can get in and out efficiently the better it will perform.
Most factory cars are restricted to pass emissions. But adding a cold air intake will feed a colder air charge which is denser air/more fuel/ more power.
The exhaust is on the restrictive side as well. Any 4-1 or 4-2-1 header will work but also a cat-back will be needed. 2.25/2.35/2.5" will be fine.
Another option (which isnt hard to do) is mill the head .010 or .020" to bump up compression. While you will need to take out the cams, there are many drop in cams that will work fine on a stock ECU. (Crane 101-0012 come to mind, theres still a few sets out there for sale)
Nitrous is another for "power on demand" but you will have to either use a wet kit or run a little richer bumping up fuel pressure to make up for a dry shot.
One thing is the P75 head is the most restrictive on all the B series nonvtec blocks. You can try to source a P8R head which flows close to a B16 but limited after 650CFM. But the larger intake valves itself are almost worth doing the head swap!
So its all up to you and your wallet of what your limits are.
The engine is basically an air pump. The more air you can get in and out efficiently the better it will perform.
Most factory cars are restricted to pass emissions. But adding a cold air intake will feed a colder air charge which is denser air/more fuel/ more power.
The exhaust is on the restrictive side as well. Any 4-1 or 4-2-1 header will work but also a cat-back will be needed. 2.25/2.35/2.5" will be fine.
Another option (which isnt hard to do) is mill the head .010 or .020" to bump up compression. While you will need to take out the cams, there are many drop in cams that will work fine on a stock ECU. (Crane 101-0012 come to mind, theres still a few sets out there for sale)
Nitrous is another for "power on demand" but you will have to either use a wet kit or run a little richer bumping up fuel pressure to make up for a dry shot.
One thing is the P75 head is the most restrictive on all the B series nonvtec blocks. You can try to source a P8R head which flows close to a B16 but limited after 650CFM. But the larger intake valves itself are almost worth doing the head swap!
So its all up to you and your wallet of what your limits are.
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