mantic6t9

Which is the stongest?
1. Regular 32mm craftsman 1/2in drive socket
2. 32mm craftsman 1/2in impact gun socket

I'm changing my axles tomorrow and want to get the strongest socket i can get from sears. I'm almost sure the nut is going to be a PITA. I've been soaking them with PB Blaster for the last few day hopeing it will help.


[Modified by mantic6t9, 12:57 AM 1/6/2003]

eg_nezay

go to a Pepboys/autozone and rent the Axle nut socket set. Its free
or else just buy one from there(the black socket)
btw- a gun really wont help if its reall tight, I would use a braker bar(stand/jump on it to loosen them up )
good luck

Shawn C

iTrader: (1)

i think the regular socket will be fine, plus its craftsman...break it and go get a free new one. also, make sure to get a ball joint separator, for the joints and to pop the axle out of the tranny. also, be sure to put anti-sieze lubricant on the axle nut threads before putting the nut back on. good luck with it. and by the way, i think an impact gun would be better than a breaker bar. at 135 PSI, they'll loosen anything


[Modified by 22lbGS-R, 6:58 AM 1/6/2003]


[Modified by 22lbGS-R, 7:00 AM 1/6/2003]

mantic6t9

I do not have air tools, the braker bar will have to do. I will use a BFH to seperate the balljoint.

I was wondering if Autozone rented the sockets 'cause i rented a o2 sensor socket from them a while back. Since i'm getting the axles from there i might as well rent the sockets while i'm at it.


[Modified by mantic6t9, 1:06 AM 1/6/2003]

Evs-One

the impact sockets are strongest. My bro just got 10-32 mm impact sockets from Harbor Frieght for 10 bucks! lifetime warranty.

mantic6t9

Cool ther is a harbor frieght in town, maybe i'll stop by there while i'm out.

mantic6t9

I know sometimes the lower ball joint can be a pain. Got any tips in case i run into trouble trying to seperate it?

Shawn C

iTrader: (1)

well, what car are you doing this on? some hondas you can just onbolt the upper control arm and not worry about ball joints. but about tips... bang the **** out of the ball joint separator. thats about all i know to tell you. ive never found a good trick to damn ball joints.

B18C-EJ1

Loosen the lower 17mm nut, but DON'T take it off. Unthread it about 3/4 of the way.

Then, use a small floor jack and lift "SLIGHTLY" on the loosened nut. Take said BFH, and give the control arm a few good whacks.

You should be golden after that.

Hope this helps!


[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 12:09 AM 1/6/2003]

Kamin

i just unbolt the LCA from the frame and setcure itto the frame, essientally let it hang from the lower ball joint. havent had a problem yet.

mantic6t9

This is on a 93 si hatch.

ill phil

As far as axle nuts go- I just use a Craftsmen 32mm w/ 1/2 drive. Get someone to step on the brakes and use the socket wrench with a braker bar and give a good hard push and it should come loose (sometimes you may have to stand on the breaker bar to break it loose).
For the balljoint, I just use a BFH and works fine. I smack the LCA with a few good hits (can't be wussy hits ) and it will seperate with no problem. Hit the LCA right before the balljoint and make sure not to hit the balljoint. Oh yeah make sure you remove the cotter pin and castle nut first.

94hondaLS

If you want the strongest socket get the impact socket(black). Also dont get a ball joint separator most of the time they rip the boot of the ball joint. It does the trick though. All you need is a decent size hammer. there is a little protrusion on the LCA where the ball joint goes in. take the hammer and give it a good whack. that should loosen the ball joint so you can remove it.

Mista Bone

the impact socket is stronger, but I just went to Autozone and grab one. Also Harbor Freight had a 14 or so piece 1/2" drive impact socket set for like $15 not long ago.

Axles nuts = I never use PB Blaster OR unstake the nuts. 100-110 psi from compressor and a Campbell-Hausfield POS 1/2" impact gun all you really need.

mantic6t9

Thanks for all the help. If there is something else keep it comeing.

I asked this question before. Do need to drain the tranny fluid before i remove the drivers side Axle? Some people have said yes and some no. I want to have this clear before i start.


[Modified by mantic6t9, 10:42 AM 1/6/2003]

mantic6t9

bump

mantic6t9

Got it changed today. The only problem i had was the axle nut, so i ended up going to a shop and having them loosen it so i could take it off when i got home. The balljoint was cake, nothing to it but i do sugest having a new cotter pin handy. There was also a slight problem with the header support with my greddy header it bends it a little with it like that you can not pull the axle out of the diff. All i had to do was unbolt it from the header, bend it back, and pry the axle out.

If your car has a ripped CV boot and ther is grease everywhere i highly recomend using latex gloves 'cause that stuff is nast and gets everywhere. BTW i didn't not have to drain my tranny fluid (d16z6).