Vic_GSU

My car runs fine when I drive but when I touch the brakes it starts vibrating. The rotors and brakes look to be fine
and the tires are brand new. Anyone have a clue what is up?

Mike_C

Brake rotors are likely warped. Even slight warpage (which you can't see) will cause what you're experiencing.

junkyard racer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake rotors are likely warped. Even slight warpage (which you can't see) will cause what you're experiencing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

also, make sure you dont have any air in your brake lines. check your fluids. I have also heard a little condesation in your resivor will cause this...

steve_s

you could prob get the rotors cut if the warping isnt that bad. But i would just get a new set of rotors, they arent that expensive.

SiRP

Had the same problem. Had the discs refaced. Problem gone.

Kendall

Given the extremely low cost of rotor replacement, it's almost not worth it to have rotors resurfaced. I'd just get some new ones.

Hotpressed

Replacing the rotors is a good idea, although resurfacing them can save you a few bucks, so long as they are not below min. thickness. Make sure you torque the lug nuts back on to spec. Overtorquing or using an impact wrench to get them back on can warp the hub/rotor assembly. The manual calls for 80 ft-lbs; I use a Craftsman digital wrench set to its max of 75 ft-lbs. Also check the caliper pins and sleeves to make sure the boots are intact, they have grease inside, and are not binding.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hotpressed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Overtorquing or using an impact wrench to get them back on can warp the hub/rotor assembly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not just the overtorqueing that will cause "warping", it can also be caused by unevenly tightening down the lug nuts. As stated above, always use a torque wrench to torque the lug nuts. Everytime I go to a tire place like Discount Tire or alike, I always loosen every lug nut when I get home and then retighten them with the torque wrench cause they put the lug nuts back on with an impact wrench and then go around with the torque wrench but since the impact has already over and unevenly torqued them the torque wrench isn't doing any good.

As for the question, I agree with everyone else, either get new rotors or resurface the ones you have.

hondasport2000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake rotors are likely warped. Even slight warpage (which you can't see) will cause what you're experiencing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

SiRP

Wish I could say the same about cost where I come from, dude. I live in the Philippines, land of HIGH material costs but CHEAP labor. That's why i had them refaced.

deviant1

mine did the same and i replaced my rotors and pads. problem gone.

rainforest

also the rotors/hub mating surface can have rust on wich will cause a brake pulsation so while you are changing the rotors you sould take a fine grit sand paper over the hubs surface and on the rotor if you resurface the rotor. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not just the overtorqueing that will cause "warping", it can also be caused by unevenly tightening down the lug nuts. As stated above, always use a torque wrench to torque the lug nuts. Everytime I go to a tire place like Discount Tire or alike, I always loosen every lug nut when I get home and then retighten them with the torque wrench cause they put the lug nuts back on with an impact wrench and then go around with the torque wrench but since the impact has already over and unevenly torqued them the torque wrench isn't doing any good.

As for the question, I agree with everyone else, either get new rotors or resurface the ones you have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and good technicians own torque sticks

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wish I could say the same about cost where I come from, dude. I live in the Philippines, land of HIGH material costs but CHEAP labor. That's why i had them refaced. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sucks for you! I pick up my rotors for like $15/ea

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the rotors/hub mating surface can have rust on wich will cause a brake pulsation so while you are changing the rotors you sould take a fine grit sand paper over the hubs surface and on the rotor if you resurface the rotor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. Not too many people do that when replacing their rotors. I take a wire wheel on a Dremel rotorary tool and clean the hub surface.

projekt4dr

start with replacing the rotors. i have a friend who had that problem with his accord, replaced the rotors and problem was solved.

SiRP

Ya, well living here does have its upside too, especially if you like going fast. No rules on your exhaust. You can put in 130/100w headlights anytime, any color. Speeding is tolerated (as long as you know when and where the speed guns are, and they're not that many). Of course, with the lax rules, you also have to deal with a lot of jerks on the road. What can i say, comes with the territory.

94solchick

If you have slotted or cross-drilled rotors, make sure you don't wash your car when they're hot. They will warp really bad if you do.