DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

What is the proper way to get the right 'feel'?

I know you are supposed to hold it flat, but I had trouble getting it right when I tried yesterday.

Are you supposed to tighten it down until you cant pull the feeler gauge out then loosen it a tad?

any tips or tricks?

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the proper way to get the right 'feel'?

I know you are supposed to hold it flat, but I had trouble getting it right when I tried yesterday.

Are you supposed to tighten it down until you cant pull the feeler gauge out then loosen it a tad?

any tips or tricks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are doing this the first time without someone actually showing you, it sucks!
it is something you are going to have to use you judgment on.
you should be able to feel the gauge draggin when you remove it, it is the best way to describe it.

click here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

1992Si

+1

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

I heard that you shouldnt be able to fit the next size up in after you adjust it. It makes sense but when I worked on it yesterday the arm would just make more room and move up.

Toroke

It's very hard to explain how to use feelers gauges while not in person... But if you let go of the gauge, it should NOT drop. However, pull it out, and it should have a little drag, but be able to come out still moderately easy.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard that you shouldnt be able to fit the next size up in after you adjust it. It makes sense but when I worked on it yesterday the arm would just make more room and move up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't want the valves that tight. it will cause the car to shut off, idle rough, and burn the valves.

the link i provided shows what to do, picking up a repair manual will help.

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

I've read the repair manual (haynes] and the link you posted.

The issue i was having was that as I put a different size in it would always fit.

Should i hold the arm open so that i dont get a false reading?

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've read the repair manual (haynes] and the link you posted.

The issue i was having was that as I put a different size in it would always fit.

Should i hold the arm open so that i dont get a false reading?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what type of tool are you using? you should be using a valve adjuster.
it has a socket and a screw driver in one, also what size gauges are you using?

basically, you want to lossen the lock nut, slide the feeler gauge in, use the screwdriver and began tightening, pull the gauge in and out slighty until the drag is felt, once the drag is felt, hold the nut, tighten the screw then the nut and move on to the next valve.

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

I'm using feeler gauges from autozone. Sizes from: .007-.009 in. for the intake side, and .009-.0011 in. for the exhuast side.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using feeler gauges from autozone. Sizes from: .007-.009 in. for the intake side, and .009-.0011 in. for the exhuast side.</TD></TR></TABLE>


that sounds alittle to thick.
Factory spec for the B18C1/5 and B16A is:

Intake: 0.006"-0.007"
Exhaust: 0.007"-0.008"

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention its for a D16Y8. Those specs were taken right out of the Haynes manual.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forgot to mention its for a D16Y8. Those specs were taken right out of the Haynes manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, yes they are different specs.

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

I misread the specs for the exhaust when I did it yesterday and I thought it was .009-.010 in.

but is it true you shouldnt be able to fit the next size up that you use in there?

.kyle

iTrader: (1)

remember that each cylinder you do, the piston has to be TDC.

theirs a link in the FAQ or just type in valve lash in the search. its shows how to do one on a sohc


here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=561916
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086

Toroke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I misread the specs for the exhaust when I did it yesterday and I thought it was .009-.010 in.

but is it true you shouldnt be able to fit the next size up that you use in there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, this is incorrect. You probably will be able to fit a bigger one in there, maybe even as high as 5 thousandths more. Read what I said before. Feelers gauges should have drag when you pull them out, but not too much. However, it should be able to sit suspended between the two surfaces and NOT FALL OUT. It's very hard to explain, it's very easily shown though. Again, it should be able to hold itself up (like if the gauge was vertical), but should have moderate (NOT TOO MUCH) drag when you pull it out.


Modified by Toroke at 1:10 AM 7/20/2007

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

If only i can feel it. im sure there is a fine line between the feel.

is it fairly leanant, or if im a hair off it will be the end of the world?

DrewMD

iTrader: (1)

When I do the exhaust side, should I lean more torwards .0011 in or .009 in?