94SiHatch

This was an unintentional project That was started due to a cracked seam on the stock radiator.

Instead of attempting a repair, i set out in search of replacement. With the H22 and nitrous, and eventual turbo in the plans, upgraded cooling capacity is going to be important. I would have preferred to get an aluminum piece, but with limited funds, I found a dual core direct replacement from a Del Sol VTEC on Ebay for $50 ($75 shipped). The stock civic 1.6L SOHC is a single core and only about 1/4"-3/8" thick. The part from the Del Sol is Dual Core and about 1 1/4" thick. Since both cars use the same EG chassis, its a direct swap. While I was at it I replaced the stock thermostat and seal, and cleaned up the old beat up fan shroud. Eventually I'll have to get a slim fan, but again due to limited funds, this will have to work for awhile.

I would estimate at least 50-75% (correct me if im wrong) more cooling capacity...and including the radiator, thermostat, seal and antifreeze, I came up under $100. Not too shabby for a nice increase that will be well used later down the road.

yeah and now i dont have to stop every other day and add water...

Here you can see the differences in the thickness of the radiators



Brand new Del Sol Radiator for $50...a worthy upgrade.



New stuff in the car, OEM fit, no mods.



Old ratty stuff...The whole seam above the red line was split wide open, and spewing water/steam into the engine bay...Got by driving on it for 5 days until the new one came.



Updated pic of engine bay, new intake, new battery, new radiator, new exhuast manifold...not even bothering modifying the engine...its not going to stay in the car.



Next on the list...new driver side CV axle...stupid thing is spraying oil/grease all down the driver side of the car. Thats for another day though.

Now the Q&A section:

What are all the potential causes of a limp mode type rev limit. My car wont rev past 6400-6500 and hasnt since I bought it.Isnt the rev limit on the d16z6 supposed to be 7100? I replaced the Distributor cap last night, and took care of a slight misfire i was having at idle...but the low rev limit is still there. How do i scan the ECU for codes without a scan tool? IF theres no stored codes, what could be the issue?

Wires, distributor, rotor, injectors, timing...anything. Where do i start looking? Plugs and cap are brand new, wires seem fine. Ive checked every vacuum hose I can fine, and found no leaks. Maybe a bad sensor somewhere? Also if the car is in fact in limp mode would VTEC be engaging? I know its not supposed to be noticable in the SOHC engines, so is there a way to check without wiring up a VTEC LED light? Will VTEC engage in neutral, and where is the solenoid on the Z6? Lots of questions, but i dont know where to start looking.

94SiHatch

well i finally figured out how to jump the diagnostic port.

I have a code 22 CEL, and a code 14 in the ABS.

My oil level is fine, im going to do an oilchange tis weekend to see if it helps, but i have a feeling its actually a bad switch. Does anyone have any info on a way i can tes the components of the Oil pressure switch, and the sending unit?

The ABS code is also a bad switch. I know how to test it, i just need batteries for my multimeter.

pdiggitydogg

what is the name of the seller that you bought it off of? I am concidering getting the same one (i assume its the same anyways) for my ej8.

94SiHatch

seller was etg5252, had it in my hands in 4 business days

AmginE

good job. i just did that on my coupe, i cracked my radiator in the same spot. Autozone and Oreilly have replacements, the Del Sol SI and the Civic EX/SI have the same radiator. Also, the ones from oreilly and autozone are 100 dollars, and they're aluminum. but good job anyways. what did you use to plug the transmission lines?

pdiggitydogg

yep same guy i was lookin at

so its worth the $ eh? Quality stuff?

edit**what i really want to know, is: Will this rad be a decent upgrade to the stock unit? Are the stockers CuBrass or Al? I dont really want to change effeciency for size and weight... So, would this rad be or just ok


Modified by pdiggitydogg at 4:18 PM 9/24/2003

AmginE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now the Q&A section:

What are all the potential causes of a limp mode type rev limit. My car wont rev past 6400-6500 and hasnt since I bought it.Isnt the rev limit on the d16z6 supposed to be 7100? I replaced the Distributor cap last night, and took care of a slight misfire i was having at idle...but the low rev limit is still there. How do i scan the ECU for codes without a scan tool? IF theres no stored codes, what could be the issue?

Wires, distributor, rotor, injectors, timing...anything. Where do i start looking? Plugs and cap are brand new, wires seem fine. Ive checked every vacuum hose I can fine, and found no leaks. Maybe a bad sensor somewhere? Also if the car is in fact in limp mode would VTEC be engaging? I know its not supposed to be noticable in the SOHC engines, so is there a way to check without wiring up a VTEC LED light? Will VTEC engage in neutral, and where is the solenoid on the Z6? Lots of questions, but i dont know where to start looking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php

get the error. it should tell you where to start looking.

SpooN Man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are all the potential causes of a limp mode type rev limit. My car wont rev past 6400-6500 and hasnt since I bought it.Isnt the rev limit on the d16z6 supposed to be 7100? I replaced the Distributor cap last night, and took care of a slight misfire i was having at idle...but the low rev limit is still there. How do i scan the ECU for codes without a scan tool? IF theres no stored codes, what could be the issue?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Limp mode has a 4k rev limit. Pull your codes and then you can tell more about what is going on.

JasonBlackEJ1

cracked my radiator in the same spot/way last summer and it was due to a cracked h20 pump. i also was planning on gettin one of those del slo dual core radiators.

greebler

Was the auction for " (NEW) 2ROW 92-00 CIVIC 93-97 DEL SOL RADIATOR"

pdiggitydogg

^yeah thats the one im lookin at and its the same seller

What Im wondering about now, is the fitting size. If the stocker is meant for d's and the dual core for b's, isnt the piping size going to be too big and I'll have leaks? Even after ghetto rigged piping?

pdiggitydogg

bump...ive stolen the thread

94SiHatch

Its a bolt up operation...there is no modification or rigging required.

two simple vacuum plugs for the tranny lines just to keep moisture out and your set. Hose necks are same diameter, sae location. Mounting is identicle, fan has oem bolt holes. completely interchangable from the del sol.

Its copper core, same as stock. Yes its heavier by a couple lbs..maybe 3-4. But its more cost effective then a fluidyne unit, or even a comparable single row aluminum. A single row aluminum radiator will have about equal cooling as a two row copper, so it will be lighter, and just as efficient, but cost twice as much too.

Its a judgement call. This will get the job done for me, i needed a new one anyways, and it was $50...you wont here me complain. I do suggest you keep whatever radiator cap you have now, i didnt like the one sent with the dual core. It seemed too tight.

*** far as the engine codes...I posted them in my 2nd post. It is CEL 22...oil pressure switch/vtec pressure switch.

I would like to know how to test the switch on the vtec solenoid and the oilpressure sender by the oil filter. I grounded out the switch on the solenoid to attempt to bypass it, but nothing changed. Same 6500rpm limit, same lack of pull above around 5000rpm...

pdiggitydogg

alright thats about what i figured for weight and efficiency after i'd thought about it for a time.

I think I'll go with it too

bump for ya and your Q