TravisCadello

why when i go to autozone they tell me i dont have a damn TPS sensor? and also why when they get me a MAP sensor its the one thats located on the throttle body and mines on the firewall with vaccume hoses? i know im telling them the same year and everything. and ive looked in the junkyard they all have map sensors on the throttle body. why is this?

and the air charge sensor how will the car run without it?

z6hatchboy

92-93 civic maps were located on the firewall for some models, then 94-95 they went on the t/b. The egs are famous for little oddball things like that and that all 92's are prewired for vtec even if it was a model that didnt have it. Im not sure what a air charge sensor is, are you talking about the map? If so, it wont hardly run without it in fact it might not run without it. to change the tps, you need to use a hacksaw or dremel and cut slots in the rivets the hold it on then use a flathead screw driver and turn it out, you can buy tps's on ebay from blox, ect. or get one from a known working t/b

TravisCadello

the air flow charge sensor is a little white sensor on the back of the intake manifold and has a 2 prong connector and i was told it was a mass air flow sensor. but the sensor broke and i connected it half ***. and people tell me it need to be replaced so that the clip actually clips onto the sensor. and it runs the same when its running with it connected or not connected. but maybe its never actually working and that could be the cause of all the weird stuff my car does.

z6hatchboy

oh ok, thats the iat or intake air temp sensor. It'll run without it but i dont know how bad.

TravisCadello

i looked at autozone and finnally found a pictue of it and it said it was a Air Charge Temperature Sensor. 36.99 im not sure if i should get it. my check engine light show a bad map sensor. but that cause i need to route my vaccume hoses.

z6hatchboy

if it doesnt have a code for the iat then dont get it, but get those hoses routed!

TravisCadello

Will the vaccume hoses cause it to run funny or bad on gas?

if i connect my tps sensor it idles up and down and wont drive it will turn off. so i been driving without my tps sensor. i bought a new one and it did the same thang.

do you think if i connected all my vaccume hoses and connected the tps it would run fine?

z6hatchboy

well to get it right that"ll all have to be hooked and fixed to see what you have. It'll run very bad with bad vacuum hoses, because it'll of the vacuum operated fpr and such

TravisCadello

on the throttle body their a port for a vaccume hose and it was plugged when i bought my new motor. but does that port connect to the map sensor?

sohctodohc

when you installed the new tps did you adjust it?

do you have a manual?? if not i suggest getting one.

do you have a multimeter? these are also very handy when dealing with sensors.

z6hatchboy

If its like a nipple of the top of the t/b that goes to the evap canister on the firewall, but make sure with a vacuum diagram under the hood. When putting the new tps on closed it should read .45v and open its something like 5v i believe. theres a diy on here somewhere for it

Mohsin

off topic - the CEL still may not light up even if the IAT is intermittently sending the ECU wrong reads, until it fully gives in, the CEL will pop up. I'll be changing my quite soon and will post on the results on my lagging problem...

civicjoe

To recalibrate your tps there are three wires on it, I believe you get a reading off the middle one. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

Put on your new sensor but leave the 2 bolts loose so you can rotate it back and forth.

Turn your to ON, not RUN, just on, so the motor is not running but the car has power.

Grab your multimeter and find a ground..something metal or whatever.

Alright now take your other multimeter lead and check out that middle wire on the tps sensor plug. You should be able to push the lead into the back of the sensor plug where the middle wire goes into it and get a reading off of that.

Your fully closed reading should be .45 to .50 volts and fully open should be 1.45 to 1.50 volts. Rotate the sensor until you get these readings.

Tighten her up and your good to go.

Have fun!

civicjoe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohsin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">off topic - the CEL still may not light up even if the IAT is intermittently sending the ECU wrong reads, until it fully gives in, the CEL will pop up. I'll be changing my quite soon and will post on the results on my lagging problem...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even if it's broken I would still replace it. I think the sensor is actually cheaper from the stealership than autozone, check it online or something.

Mohsin

the older IAT's tend to mess up and still not get a CEL. I've been having lagging problems when my car is fully warm and also when its actually warmer temps.

TravisCadello

I'm thinking if i connect all my vaccume right it will run great with tps hooked up.

tnez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">92-93 civic maps were located on the firewall for some models, then 94-95 they went on the t/b. The egs are famous for little oddball things like that and that all 92's are prewired for vtec even if it was a model that didnt have it. Im not sure what a air charge sensor is, are you talking about the map? If so, it wont hardly run without it in fact it might not run without it. to change the tps, you need to use a hacksaw or dremel and cut slots in the rivets the hold it on then use a flathead screw driver and turn it out, you can buy tps's on ebay from blox, ect. or get one from a known working t/b</TD></TR></TABLE>

does anyone have a diagram for how to route the vacuum hoses on the firewall-mounted MAP sensors? I need a reference for a b16a in an ef hatch.

Spool This

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicjoe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To recalibrate your tps there are three wires on it, I believe you get a reading off the middle one. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

Put on your new sensor but leave the 2 bolts loose so you can rotate it back and forth.

Turn your to ON, not RUN, just on, so the motor is not running but the car has power.

Grab your multimeter and find a ground..something metal or whatever.

Alright now take your other multimeter lead and check out that middle wire on the tps sensor plug. You should be able to push the lead into the back of the sensor plug where the middle wire goes into it and get a reading off of that.

Your fully closed reading should be .45 to .50 volts and fully open should be 1.45 to 1.50 volts. Rotate the sensor until you get these readings.

Tighten her up and your good to go.

Have fun!</TD></TR></TABLE>


i thought the readings should be .5v closed and 4.8v WOT atleast mine are set that way...

TravisCadello

yea, i have the firewall mounted map sensor also. i think theirs a diagram under our hood.