patric8332

iTrader: (1)

alright i have a 92 cx hatch and its got the stock 1.5 in it that smokes and burns oil like crazy lol. Somebody i know has a ls that i can pick up fairly cheap but the thing is, is that its an obd0 and i know i will half to change the intake manifold, the alt., the starter, and prob a few other little things but my main question is that im going to use a hydrolic transmission and i aint sure what axles i am going to need...i swapped a y7 into a 93ex which is going from obd2 to obd1 so i kinda know what im doing but any help would be nice thanks

posHonda

Any axles for a B series tranny should work. Some people claim otherwise, but from what Ive seen theyre all the same.

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks i was just trying to find out any information before i got in over my head lol

1sickEJ

go wiht the ls is the best choice on a budget

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

yeah my plans are to get this ls and save up and build the bottom end because i have a brand new turbo set up in my room waiting to be put on something lol

_HANS

iTrader: (1)

LS motors are good if your on a budget build...deff has potential....add some boost or vtec. or both! hah goodluck with the swap

USDMCIVICHATCH

if you have a 90-93 Integra intermediate shaft then use 90-93 Integra axles, if you have a 94-01 intermediate shaft then use 94-01 axles, and obd0 and obd1 alternators are the same also you can get away with using the 90-93 intake just change the injectors

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _HANS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS motors are good if your on a budget build...deff has potential....add some boost or vtec. or both! hah goodluck with the swap </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yeah they are. They're even good off a budget if they're built up. LS rules, only like 15lb/ft tq. less than the GSR, which isn't a lot, the only reason the GSR puts down so much more power is due to the higher redline with a head that can support increased air flow and more aggressive cam profiling matched with a more aggressive fuel map. Not to mention it operates better when VTEC kicks in as the lobes are more suited for higher RPM and the IAB's allow more air flow --- asside from the tech **** on why the GSR puts down a rating of 180 at the crank and the LS puts down 142 at the crank, the differences are null.

Like I like to say to **** people off (though it's true). The GSR is simply an LS on steroids.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patric8332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah my plans are to get this ls and save up and build the bottom end because i have a brand new turbo set up in my room waiting to be put on something lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

The punch in the stomach about the LS is its trans, it has the longest B series trans that I know of. Though don't be fooled by people saying it's VERY long, it has about the same gear ratios as the shortest D series trans (the EX/Si trans). So it may not be gear for ridiculous acceleration like the ITR, but the LS trans will do you fine, especially if you're boosting, it'll get ya power to the ground fast, as well as provide fuel economy as you're not driving the boost through the roof every time you accelerate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patric8332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright i have a 92 cx hatch and its got the stock 1.5 in it that smokes and burns oil like crazy lol. Somebody i know has a ls that i can pick up fairly cheap but the thing is, is that its an obd0 and i know i will half to change the intake manifold, the alt., the starter, and prob a few other little things but my main question is that im going to use a hydrolic transmission and i aint sure what axles i am going to need...i swapped a y7 into a 93ex which is going from obd2 to obd1 so i kinda know what im doing but any help would be nice thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a hydraulic tranny, don't try to go hydraulic to cable, it's a pain in the ***. You'll save yourself a headache if you stick with a hydraulic trans.

Should be pretty straight forward swap, man. You gotta just do some small plug rewiring, but nothing major. I can't help you with which parts need to be rewired from OBD-I to OBD-0 because I don't know. So sorry.

Good luck, though.

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

so if the motor is a 90 model then your telling me to use the 90-93 axles and on the transmission side use the 94-01 axles? if thats so then it sounds like this is going to be a fairly easy sap....Also i have another question my friend has an obd1 GSR intake manifold and i was wondering if it will bolt up to the ls?

B18C5-EH2

The engine has zero to do with which axles you need.

The left CV axle will be determined by what intermediate shaft/transmission combo you run.

Since you're going hydro tranny, right? If so get any 94-01 Integra intermediate shaft and axles. 90-93 intermediate shafts and left axles are completely different than 94-01 ones.

Also forget about an OBD1 GS-R intake manifold - it has a dual butterfly system that most people intentionally ditch, and besides it won't even bolt up - not even close.

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks yeah im going to use a hydro transmission

bigg86

im selling my ls head that i just finished building because i decided to go ls-vtec.....

there are a couple of pics in my profile, i bought this head for $850 off ebay with just a minor polished work to it and you can see the work that was done to it under the back then picture..... after i got it, i realized that much more work could be done to it... so i got an extreme port and polished job done to it which cost me only 1000 because i knew the guy that did the work. From there i sent the head to the shop to replace the stock guides for some ferrea bronze guides (less friction = more power), while at the shop, i decided to oversize the valves 1mm (intake and exhaust), so i got some really nice custom made valves that cost me some good money, they are high compression valves with a nice high flow design. So the head got a 3 angle valve job done to it.... after that i got a set of bullfrog racing dual spring + titanium retainers and installed them with a 60 thousandth mm shim to increase spring pressure and protect the head from the dual springs.... the next buy was a set of obx stage two cams which are a lil bit more aggresive than the crowers stage 2 cams... and the last thing i got for it was a set of STR camgears.... there is one more thing that was done to the head to increase flow which i will only tell the person that buys the head.... after the new guides were installed and before the head was assembled some more polished work was done to it to fix any scratches and give it a smooth finish. i would need to upload some more pics since the work that you can see now was before the guides/valves/springs/cams were installed.

i was gonna put this head on ebay but if i can sell it here i'll be better off.... bidding starts at $950, msg me and let me know how much you are willing to pay for it. if you have any questions just reply to this topic and i'll get back to you as soon as i can..

im also including a sk2 intake manifold + apr head studs. my email is bigg_86@hotmail.com

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

that sounds like a nice head but im on a tight budget right now and thats way out of my range im just going to get this set up and later on build the bottom end and run somewhere around 12-15psi of boost to it and hope not to break anything lol

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patric8332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that sounds like a nice head but im on a tight budget right now and thats way out of my range im just going to get this set up and later on build the bottom end and run somewhere around 12-15psi of boost to it and hope not to break anything lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whether or not your engine blows up is decided on by horsepower/torque at the end, not PSI of the turbo.

silver05bullet

your right it doesnt matter how much boost you run its all in the power your making the same 10 psi on one turbo is not the same on another turbo you have to take into consideration the flow ratings of the turbos etc.

patric8332

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know bout the power and the psi difference i know that like 7 psi on a small turbo would not be as mush as say 7psi on a larger turbo...i have a t3/t4 set up in my bedroom thats never been put on and its a good size turbo so im going to have to watch my psi on it...im going to get it tuned and everything done correctly but thats gong to be later on down the road...im working 2 jobs now and 7 days a week so im saveing up to build the bottom end before i even consider boosting it because the motor im geeting has 140k on it and i know that alot to be doing a swap but right now its all i can afford and my motor is extremly close to blowing up lol

Prism250

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hell yeah they are. They're even good off a budget if they're built up. LS rules, only like 15lb/ft tq. less than the GSR, which isn't a lot, the only reason the GSR puts down so much more power is due to the higher redline with a head that can support increased air flow and more aggressive cam profiling matched with a more aggressive fuel map. Not to mention it operates better when VTEC kicks in as the lobes are more suited for higher RPM and the IAB's allow more air flow --- asside from the tech **** on why the GSR puts down a rating of 180 at the crank and the LS puts down 142 at the crank, the differences are null.

Like I like to say to **** people off (though it's true). The GSR is simply an LS on steroids.

The punch in the stomach about the LS is its trans, it has the longest B series trans that I know of. Though don't be fooled by people saying it's VERY long, it has about the same gear ratios as the shortest D series trans (the EX/Si trans). So it may not be gear for ridiculous acceleration like the ITR, but the LS trans will do you fine, especially if you're boosting, it'll get ya power to the ground fast, as well as provide fuel economy as you're not driving the boost through the roof every time you accelerate.

Use a hydraulic tranny, don't try to go hydraulic to cable, it's a pain in the ***. You'll save yourself a headache if you stick with a hydraulic trans.

Should be pretty straight forward swap, man. You gotta just do some small plug rewiring, but nothing major. I can't help you with which parts need to be rewired from OBD-I to OBD-0 because I don't know. So sorry.

Good luck, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where did you get this info that the LS puts down 15ft/lbs less torque then a GSR ? Actually an LS motor and a GSR motor make around the same amount of torque give or take 1.