Update Post 14

96 civic ex.

This is the one under the dizzy that sends the signal to the gauge right?

When you test it, do you need to remove the dizzy, or can you get to it without removing it?

Also what should I set the ohm meter too?

If I need to replace it, do you need to remove the dizzy?

I found this,



Is this the right part?

 

Thats the right part. You mean what range on your meter for ohms? Whatever range falls within the limits listed on that chart you posted.

 

So for the first reading I would need to set it like to 200, the second reading 49-34 that is the ohm range right?

 

That setting should work for both checks

 

Do you know how to check the other sensor, one that goes the computer? I assume that is ohms, but I think that has 2 terminals, how is the meter connected to that and the ohm range?

 

Bring the engine to operating temp and then turn it off and unplug the ECT sensor. Read resistance across the two sensor terminals. It should read 200-400 Ohms. The meter should be set on the 1K or 2K scale for this test.

 

I need to test mine too, it looks like it'd be a pain to do with the dist on.

 

Ron does it matter which probe is connected to which lead? That is a 2 wire one right?

 

Nope

Yep

 

How hard is going to get to these sensors you think?

Might as well ask, anyway of testing the fan switch with a multimeter, not counting jumping the leads.

 

There's no test described in the service manual, though this chart may help you devise one:

 

Removing the distributor is pretty easy, so just do it.

 

Thanks Ron

 

Update:

I did some testing.

For the sending unit I used 2k on the meter, was this correct?

I only did a hot reading and got .095 does this seem right, that number?

Now looking up the instructions was the engine supposed to be running, I might screwed up.

For ground I used the engine block, is that an ok ground?


For the ECT one for the computer I used same 2k scale and got .342 for a hot reading as well, this seems to be inline of what Ron posted.

Side note I jumped the Thermo switch and the fan comes on.

I had a replacement thermo switch so I swapped it anyway and ran the car for awhile and the fan did kick on just about the 1/2 point, who knows my original switch could of been bad since it seemed lazy to come on.

This was an aftermarket switch, and it doesn't seem to click when pushed on the connector (read this about other people saying it too), but I assume it is making a connection since the fan did come on.

 

Bump

I tested again cold I got .75 on a 2k scale

With engine running (hot) I still got a .095 on a 2k scale.

I tried the 200 setting on the meter but nothing registered, the next one was 2k

Am I using the wrong guidelines to match up, the charts I posted might of been from an older civic?