TheIceMan

what do u guys think is a better deal for ur $$$......my friend has a 93 hatch stock with a d series turbo kit...my other friend has a 95 coupe with a gsr motor. i find it halarious that my friend spent 800 on a turbo for his stocky, and eats up gsr's and si's all day. what gives? he told me that he would rather have the turbo kit on the stock motor because if the motor blows its fairly cheap to buy a new stock motor. its just funny to me how he's totally blowing these cars away, while the other cars spend 3 or 4 thousand dollars on a swap(gsr).

RedDC5

If you want to continue making power, the better way to go is the gsr cause once you boost that, it'll blow that d series away and its a lot less likely to go out cause the internals are stronger than a dseries internals. The d probly has that boost on like 6 or 7 psi i bet. On the other hand, turboing a dseries is so much cheaper than a gsr and it does give reasonable power. Thing is I know a few n/a gsr's that could blow a turbo d series away, but they do have some considerable work...Depends on your money situation and what you goals are

blackeg

what motor do u have now? a sohc vtec turbo on 8-10 psi can definately whoop some ***, or at least hold its own against many other cars. it wont be the fastest, but it will be 100 times more fun to drive than wiht bolt ons.

HiProfile

As mentioned, what are your goals. Getting a swap keeps the window for improvement WIDE open, but you'll need cash up front. The turbo is more of an investment of time than money, since tuning is key. With the D all you can do after, w/o spending an arm and a leg, is get head work and forged internals for a few more psi. Sleeving & forged internals can cost as much as just selling the stock boosted setup and boosting a b18c1, with close to the same whp amounts.

If you want to go crazy, get a swap and then boost later, otherwise get a turbo now.

specv5150

This is a stupid question. Almost everyone on here will say swap. Depending on what your goals are, you get some good power almost instantly or do a buildup. Maybe I am a bit biased because I would never swap a B series into my car when I have a perfectly runing engine in there. I would probably do a build on a D series but until then I dont mind blowing up $50 blocks

Happyman

Having gone SOHC Vtec turbo before I'd say it depends on what you want. stock SOHC turbo is good to about 200-220 whp reliably tuned. 220 hp depending on the turbo and your power band would be good for a high 12 sec-low 13 sec pass with good driver and some slicks. I loved my sohc turbo. Such a fun car but if you're looking for alot more power than I'd suggest going with an LS swap. Cause it's cheap and when turbo'd can hold its own against it's other B series competitors. Also LS swaps are fairly cheap. A buddy of mine got a ~30k mile LS swap from a junkyard for like 1300$. He turbo'd it a few months ago and hes out there beating stock SC'd Cobras.

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Happyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having gone SOHC Vtec turbo before I'd say it depends on what you want. stock SOHC turbo is good to about 200-220 whp reliably tuned. 220 hp depending on the turbo and your power band would be good for a high 12 sec-low 13 sec pass with good driver and some slicks. I loved my sohc turbo. Such a fun car but if you're looking for alot more power than I'd suggest going with an LS swap. Cause it's cheap and when turbo'd can hold its own against it's other B series competitors. Also LS swaps are fairly cheap. A buddy of mine got a ~30k mile LS swap from a junkyard for like 1300$. He turbo'd it a few months ago and hes out there beating stock SC'd Cobras. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah kinda what I was trying to say but didnt do a vvery good job. I loved my SOHC turbo and I am doing it again as we speak. I wouldnt mind an LS, but I just cant see spending money on another motor when mine works fine and 220whp would be MORE than enough for me

RedDC5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah kinda what I was trying to say but didnt do a vvery good job. I loved my SOHC turbo and I am doing it again as we speak. I wouldnt mind an LS, but I just cant see spending money on another motor when mine works fine and 220whp would be MORE than enough for me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Has the motor been reliable to u? Had any serious problems and how much do you drive this car usually? I got a D-series and Im thinking about turboing mine as well, but at the same time i may have an LS on the way...It depends, i dont know yet...

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_ridin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Has the motor been reliable to u? Had any serious problems and how much do you drive this car usually? I got a D-series and Im thinking about turboing mine as well, but at the same time i may have an LS on the way...It depends, i dont know yet...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent put turbo #2 on yet. Still getting parts. Turbo #1 went okay I had a greddy kit. Worked great. I daily drove 7 psi I only had two problems. 1)Timing was a BIG deal but I was running the AFC hack (never do that again). Then I had the infamous headlift get me. Not really knwoing I just ripped everything off and sold it, then read about the head lifting. So this time I will be using ARP headbolts. I plan on doing a comprehensive write up this time to show people that some good power can be made on a Y5! VTAK-E 4EVAR!

Seriously though...if I came up on an LS for pocket change I would swap, but my power goals are EASILY attainable on a D series. IF I ever want to get more, just build it and buy better components. 220whp would be fine though. Alot of people shoot for these astronomical numbers and they dont know what it feels like

RedDC5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

...I was running the AFC hack (never do that again).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is that? I got a SAFC, what problems did u have with that? Thanx for answering my questions, its helping me get closer to my decision.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

220whp would be fine though. Alot of people shoot for these astronomical numbers and they dont know what it feels like</TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel ya on that one, lol, i dont need a race car on the road, 220's a fine number

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_ridin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why is that? I got a SAFC, what problems did u have with that? Thanx for answering my questions, its helping me get closer to my decision.

I feel ya on that one, lol, i dont need a race car on the road, 220's a fine number</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tired to find the thread on it. Basically your timing gets out of whack with the hack. I was running it and I would be driving and no **** my car would just stall. Going 65mph on the highway and my car would shut off. I moved the distributor and fixed the timing a bit where the car wouldnt stall. I think you can buy a BTM (boost timing something) to adjust the timing with the hack but it just becomes a waste of resources (IMO).

S/VAFC - $150 -250
Not sure how much the BTM is but I am sure it is at least $100. For $250-350 you can have an OBD1 ECU chipped to run the free software out there to give you more control over everything, not just fuel. Here are few threads I found with a quick search

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=566927
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=884829
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=819706
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=336976
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443

I am sure you can find more concrete info with a more in-depth search. It was either here or another turbo forum where I saw a few page discussion on the AFC hack and timing. Not sure where I saw it and I havent needed to see it again as I am going with uberdata this time around


Modified by specv5150 at 1:39 PM 4/28/2005

RedDC5

Homie, your cool as hell, really appreciate that post, i'll be doing some research of my own when I get the time, damn schoolwork. How are you at tuning AFC's? I have one and still have yet to get the btich tuned, i wanna do ti myself, but Im sure it's smarter to let someone else whon knows what they are doing do that, but I dont wanna pay everytime I get something new. I guess what my question is is that how can I learn to use the SAFC?

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_ridin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Homie, your cool as hell, really appreciate that post, i'll be doing some research of my own when I get the time, damn schoolwork. How are you at tuning AFC's? I have one and still have yet to get the btich tuned, i wanna do ti myself, but Im sure it's smarter to let someone else whon knows what they are doing do that, but I dont wanna pay everytime I get something new. I guess what my question is is that how can I learn to use the SAFC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well depending on the injectors you use and the amount of boost you run, you could get on a dyno and fine tune the fuel and timing. I think with 440 or 450's you can run around 10 or so PSI....I have read of people getting 11psi on the AFC Hack with DSM but you are getting close to where the MAP sensor wont be of any use. I have see a decent range of AFC hack settings and I am sure you can get a "basemap" (probably not the besy word to use, but cant think of a better one) from searching on here, then hop on a dyno and fine tune it. Your options are kinda limited with a AFC though.

Honestly, I would ditch the AFC. I got my P28 chipped with an uberdata basemap for 120 shipped. Cant beat that. I am sure you can sell your AFC for 120.