joshsayswhatt

have a hatch 94 and I don't know what's wrong but my car does this from time to time. When I start the car it starts and then stalls but I can catch it before it stalls and hit the gas pedal an it will stay started up. Or if I let it stall I can pump the pedal and turn the key and it starts up. It does it with no schedule. Sometimes with a full tank sometimes with low fuel. Sometimes in the cold sometimes in the heat. I thought it was something by the way my car is parked in the driveway tilted down so I backed in and it does it too but it does it in flat parking lots what's wrong?

Former User

Isn't this a low idle problem?

Is the CEL on?

Ruben19

fuel pump probably going bad

joshsayswhatt

no cel's. I know everything in the fuel system is still original. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? And what about the injecters? I also took into consideration the fuel pump. I just need some advice or some personal experience before spending any monies.

joshsayswhatt

The idle is a little rough from time to time just a slow like 30 second fluxuation from high to low only changing about 300rpm.

Former User

300 rpm idle speed fluctuation is not normal. Try cleaning the IACV and FITV on the throttle body and replacing the PCV valve.

joshsayswhatt

I cleaned the valves. And it didn't change, how could that be cause my car to start and stall within 30 seconds.

Former User

PCV valve is different than the valves in the head.

N9NE14

My 96 civic is doing the same thing, I cleaned the IACV ,checked my distributor and its internals looked fine. I'm hoping its just the fuel pump also, and nothing major, although the car sometimes idles at 100rpms until I give it gas lol.

BUMP For Answers

Former User

A faulty fuel pump would be an exceptionally rare cause for a low idle. Start by thinking air intake.

N9NE14

The idle didn't get bad until I cleaned the IACV. B4 I had the idle problem I had a start up problem, it would take literally 10 seconds of cranking b4 the motor would turn on. That's what lead me to think it was and still is the FP.

I apologize to the thread starter for thread jacking LoL

Former User

Again, not sure why you'd focus on the fuel pump. Have you inspected/test the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor and checked the ignition timing? Is the CEL on?

N9NE14

I believed it was the Fuel pump because the car would bog at WOT.
Yes I have checked the distributor and I've noticed that the spark seemed really weak, I've changed the plugs (they were literally .70).

I'm currently Trouble shooting everything from the Fuel Pump to the Distributor in hope to solve this problem.

Yes The CEL is on, Plan on jumping it tommorow to read the code.

joshsayswhatt

yeah nice thread jacking but my problem is not cranking or starting up. It starts up and cranks awesome. It starts fine but it stalls once it starts I meant the valves in the throttle body. I'm just afraid that this coming winter it will be worse. I never touched the pcv valve. And I know it's only like 3$ so I'm going to try that tommorow. I really just need some advice on the stalling. Just don't want it to get worse.

Former User

If spark is weak, check the coil in the distributor. And definitely pull the codes.

Former User

A low idle can cause stalls. Try replacing the PCV valve. If you unplug the IACV while the warm engine is idling, does the idle speed change? Also make sure the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are in good shape and that the ignition timing is set to spec.

N9NE14

Sorry man lol and I would, I honestly would check your IACV, they are trouble makers.

Ill grab a new distributor tommorow and pray that its the problem.

joshsayswhatt

so what should I get at re auto parts store to change and check and clean evrything to stop the rough idle.

N9NE14

Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner and Seafoam!

I love Seafoam

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Check the IACV. It might need replacing if a cleaning doesn't work. Happened to me. Also DO NOT use Seafoam.