tamparacer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its still there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let us know what the problem was if they figure it out.

92hatchboi

did u try looking at the ect sensor. ive had a couple cars that acted the way ur describing and their problem came from a faulty ect sensor

pdiggitydogg

Bottom of the list on page 1
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HERE'S THE UPDATED LIST OF WHAT IT ISN'T/ATTEMPED FIXES:::
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Swapped both ECT sensors, as according to a TSB (causes rich condition)
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this thread is a culmination of me being pissed off and failing
if i ever figure out what the hell it is, i will post....please stop bumping it and asking until then

jayjay

Well... since you have yet to return my pm. I may or may not have a solution for you.


I to had this very same issue. Stalling after stopping at a red light on a hill is not fun. Yes, I read through the thread..

You intially stated that the valve clearance was within spec. Although this may be the case.. your motor may like to run more to the high end of tolerance.

My suggestion to you would be to do a valve adjustment and spec it out to the maximum tolerance.

Why this worked for me... I'm not really sure. I did the valve adjustment and double/triple checked them.

My average was from running a steady 600 rpm idle to a 800 rpm idle.


My 2 cents.. take it or leave it.

pdiggitydogg

clearances are actually on the tight side already


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please stop bumping it and asking until then </TD></TR></TABLE>

playskool

I saw this thread a while back, and was interested because I had the same problem excluding the vtec cel. Idle was dropping way low coming to a stoplight, it would feel like it would stall then it would jump up to about idle speed sometimes sticking real low. I tried EVERYTHING in the book, swapped known good parts, cleaned, tested, re-tested all connections and parts, I was on the verge of a teardown. Nothing seemed to work. I work at VW/honda/volvo store and had numerous techs take a shot at it and everything seemed to be in working condition or normal. We just recently troubleshot an issue with my buddys Hondata not cooperating properly and it was a ground issue. Sooo I went back to work checked the whole ecu again ripped all my chassis ground off and sanded down all the points, remember I've done this before, this time I went ahead and replaced all the ground cables with my old ones from the stock motor and trans, I was using the ones of off the 99 teg chassis. It idles like a dream now. Absolutely no drop in idle. Give it a try. Start with the batteries negative cable and work your way around. The effed up part is all the grounds looked perfect and the old ones are rusty and look like they should be the bad set.

92ehatch

ive done everything in the book as well.

today i changed out my fuse block thinking it might have been the electronic load detector inside the block.

didnt work, but figured i would throw it out as an option to you to try.

have you checked your alternator fr signal at the ecu?

or the alternator itself?

im still battleing this as well.

the shitty part is the car runs perfect, no cels or nothing.

it just wont idle. ive done everything in the helms manual and everything checks out, tried my third iacv today and it didnt help.

im convinced it is electrical, and im gonna tear the whole thing apart and check all the wires. (mine was a wiring nightmare when i first picked it up)

pdiggitydogg

Dude...I thought you fixed your **** by replacing the TB and IM???

Battery is reloacted to the trunk, 0g wire w/ new copper terminals.
Ran perfect with the y8 on that setup too.
Im actually using the original ground wires, too...the rusted, crusty ones, which also worked fine w/ the y8. Ive cleaned each contact point meticulously, and used dielectric grease on them all.
These wires are still fine, according my my multimeter.

Ive never checked the alt output directly, but the voltmeter reads a solid 14v while running (if Im remembering right...car's not here still...). I also took the alt in and had it checked, before I used it, by autozone (ugh)

I bought an obd2a p75 the other week... I dont know why, but I figure why the hell not, Ive done everything else. It runs fine w/ an obd2 p2p afterall. I'll bypass the ckf again as well as the vtec codes @ the ecu.

If I dont have the car back by the end of this week, Im getting it back and taking it somewhere else.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude...I thought you fixed your **** by replacing the TB and IM???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that fixed it for about a week.

a new valve adjustment fixed it for a day.

everything i do seems to work for a short period of time then it comes back.

it sucks

malubawla

main relay? when its getting hot, cuts off fuel.....then car always starts right back up

pdiggitydogg

No, it runs fine with a p2p ecu
It probably wouldnt start or run period, if the main relay was bad. Its not a fuel issue...I dont think.
It drives fine, it starts fine, it just stalls...but if I drive a certain way (read first page) it wont stall at all

(kinda surprised no one suggested that idea before though)

mortificationrock

You don't have a aftermarket Tach do you? If so unplug it my **** was kind of sputtering and took me a new dizzy and all of other **** with no luck,until I unhooked the tach it went away apparently my tach was ******* everything else up(dizzy wise) G/L

pdiggitydogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have a aftermarket Tach do you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no way

malubawla

friend had the exact same problem with his stock 98 hatch with 70,xxx on it......and we changed the main relay and the problem solved.....i cleaned his iacv, changed the intake manifold gasket, tb gasket all kinds of headaches.....i had heard once that when a main relay is going bad, when its hot the fuel cuts off.....try it could be same issue

pdiggitydogg

The FP gauge doesnt read any lack of fuel though, while it begins to stall - in fact Im remembering it when higher

VegasHB

Subscribed

Same problem here with a 97 hatch w/ b16a2 swap. First bought the car and it would stall just like that when it was hot out. Went thru the wiring and found they had the IAT and Purge switched around.

Doesn't stall out now but still drops RPM's fast and it barely catches it before it stall out.

I also have a chipped P28 with a CTR base map (I have ITR cams) and it stalls easy if I'm not carefull but only when rockin the AC.

Don't know WTF it is either but it's like the IAT just doesn't react fast enough to catch the RPM drop. If I rev over 1500 and just kick the clutch in the RPM's just drop and stalls with the P28, with the GSR ecu it drops and hits maybe 100RPM and kicks back up to 900.

I'm swapping out a new harness and a batttery relocation so I'm going to do new grounds. I have a feeling it's the grounds so I'll let ya know if it helps in the next couple weeks.

92ehatch

its amazing how common this is, and no one has an answer.

im tearing into my whole car tomorrow, dash out, everything. mabey ill get lucky and find the issue.

pdiggitydogg

Finally heard from the shop - Had to do a whole tear down.
Unfortunately the answer was never found....but I did find out why I was burning coolant/oil - block guard warped the deck surface POST-machining.
Block's dead - since I already had it decked, no more can be machined off w/o clearance issues.

So the infamous stall lives on, unsolved.
(Although I was going to try putting a pcv (open) onto the IM nipple)

Probot

thats ****** crazy - my answer is gonna end up resulting in a B swap very soon

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally heard from the shop - Had to do a whole tear down.
Unfortunately the answer was never found....but I did find out why I was burning coolant/oil - block guard warped the deck surface POST-machining.
Block's dead - since I already had it decked, no more can be machined off w/o clearance issues.

So the infamous stall lives on, unsolved.
(Although I was going to try putting a pcv (open) onto the IM nipple)</TD></TR></TABLE>

so do you think that is the whole issue?

i just checked my spark plugs, all have less than 7k miles on them, number 2 3 and 4 are perfectly fine, number 1 is fouled to ****. so i think thats where mine lies

pdiggitydogg

Nah, it still ran perfectly fine with the p2p...so I dont know what the hell it was.
I did buy an obd2 p75, but never got around to trying it before it was torn apart.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah, it still ran perfectly fine with the p2p...so I dont know what the hell it was.
I did buy an obd2 p75, but never got around to trying it before it was torn apart.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the reason it ran fine with the p2p is probably because of the CEL's, if i trigger a cel in mine, like unplug map then plug it back in, or iacv then it will idle all day long, just higher than normal.

i think i may have found my issue (or i hope), i started my own thread for it.

sucks about your block man, good luck with the next one

pdiggitydogg

I actually jumped the vtec wiring and ckf though, so the last test i did ran w/o a cel

I'll read up on your thread in a bit

thanks for the luck...at this point i need it