pdiggitydogg

I was looking at a p2e earlier (digitalcongo), but the maps are pretty different, from what I read/saw....and theres that on-going rumor (which no one can verify) that the y7 uses 190cc injectors. Personally, I have a hard time buying into that, but...well...you know...

Would I be able to just bypass the vtec system codes the same way as I did the ckf? Link the pressure and the solenoid pins maybe?
Seems i can...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1693528


I did just get back in from playing some more, too...
I totally blocked off the iacv with a sheet of cardboard, which did affect the idle, until it got to temperature:
It smoothed out and once again, started the same old stalling.
Oh, and this was after I swapped IACV's for fun (trying the 2nd one normally, beforehand)
THIS COMPLETELY REMOVES THE IAVC AS THE PROBLEM

As suggested by digitalcongo, I checked the ECT sensors, which can cause a rich situation, according to a TSB. Both were in spec, but I swapped the pair from the y8 anyway.
Result = same

I am beginning to become highly suspicious of the fact that the idle doesnt really change with the idle screw is removed.
Im going to see if I can borrow a b16 tb....
I know the current one was working completely fine before....but...whatever


Modified by pdiggitydogg at 6:01 PM 7/4/2007

builthatch

it's true, the y7 does use smaller injectors. Accel flow tested them and proved it.

BOOSTED LS EG

i have the same problem with my eg. but i have a ls motor in it thats turbod.. Now it is fine when it is cold, but when the motor gets to opperating temp, it wants to stall and surges.. Not like a bad iacv, but i found out what my problem was.. THE FUEL PUMP!! It was getting to hot and cutting out.. Now i do have a walboro 255lp pump in there.. But i am changing it out and going from there. But, I am 99% positive that that is the problem..Just had to share that with you and maybe it could be of some use..

pdiggitydogg

No offense, but how much of the thread did you read?
It is an ls engine that is built for turbo, runs fine with one ecu program, but not 3 others that were designed to run it. Also ran perfectly pre-swap
Its not the fuel pump.
but thanks for the thought anyways

Probot

alright, i just read every page and im one more person to say im having the same issue with my D16Y8. if i try to turn the wheel, drive a little bit in reverse or 1st gear right when i start the car, or when im sitting at a light with no acc. on at operating temp. the car feels like and idles like it wants to stall..mine hasn't gotten to the stalling point yet. a couple weeks ago, i swapped a new motor into my car (same d16y8) and im still having the problem..the only parts that went back on to the new motor was my intake manifold. my dizzy is fine, my alternator is fine, new battery, etc. so i dont think its electrical. i honestly think the problem lies somewhere in the intake manifold. i know you've been all over that and i know you said you dont really talk to anyone but see if you can find someone to swap IMs with to see if that clears up the issue. its probably a long shot but thats all i can think of for myself since im still having the same problem on a new motor with the same IM.


bump for a real shitty annoying problem


oh and i pretty much have to drive with my lights on just to keep the idle at normal when i stop. if i dont the revs bottom out but doesnt stall.

pdiggitydogg

Im really amazed by the number of people who have this similar problem and no one has really found the solution.
It so common, each so similar, yet nothing.

But hey, at least your y8 runs with the lights on...Im not so lucky

I think I came up with a real dick move....
The head gasket does need to be replaced (felpro POS). I might just take it somewhere, have that done and then make them fix the stalling issue, saying it ran before they messed with it.
Wow thats being a *****....I cant do that

Probot

yea, id feel bad too but you may end up not gettin the car back fixed or for a long time.

Probot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i fixed my problem by changing out my throttle body and intake manifold.

i thought the larger TB was my issue. (68mm)

i dont know if it was or not, but my problem was fixed by doing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


but yea, this guy said he also was having the same issues so maybe it could fix it. who the hell knows.

speedooo

Wierd. I run a p75 with my y7 and it does almost the same thing:
its sensitive to the outside temp-winter=2k idle in the morning in 32* or less, when it broke 40 at lunch. it idle at 1k, now its summer and it idles at 1500 in the morning when its 75ish, when it breaks 90 it drops really low. In the winter after i drove the car for a while, the idle would drop down to 300ish, if i turned the car off and started it 5 minutes later it would start and then stall. Last week i started the car, drove a half mile and the car had warmed up, stopped for a light, idle dropped to 300. i moved up a couple feet as traffic moved and it died.

the cheap fix for now:
i tightened the throttle cable so the tb is slightly open at all times

car:
94 cx hatch

setup:
y7
z6 im/tb
obd1 p75
**** ran 15.8

has cel for o2 sensor because i have neglected to rewire for 4 wire, i plugged in a p06 for an obd1 1.5 16 valve that also uses 4 wire o2 causing an o2 cell and it idled fine.

pdiggitydogg

and what happens when you use the proper ecu?

speedooo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and what happens when you use the proper ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I cant because my cars obd1 and the motor/proper ecu are obd2. The closest I can come to a proper ecu is the p06 for obd1 1.5 16 valve non vtec since my motor is an obd2 1.6 16 valve non vtec. It idled perfect and everything but the fuel curve on sohc ecu's sucks so I've been using the p75.

pdiggitydogg

If I were you, I would just get a jumper harness and pick up a cheap p2e (digitalcongo is selling one)
The y7 uses smaller injectors (info newly confirmed to me) and has different maps than the p75, pr4 and p06

speedooo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were you, I would just get a jumper harness and pick up a cheap p2e (digitalcongo is selling one)
The y7 uses smaller injectors (info newly confirmed to me) and has different maps than the p75, pr4 and p06</TD></TR></TABLE>


I actually have an auto and manual version at my house but its such a cheap motor that im not too concerned about about if im harming it, i just thought id let you i have the same issue with a p75 and only the p75. Im actually quite happy with the motor/ecu combo, minus the occasional messed up idle, but with the ls ecu i managed the run 15.8 which even blew my mind. I just thought id throw this in here too, i swapped the motor in and did the ecu changed in august-october last year so im remembering what happened...when i first started the car it had a loping idle from 800-1500 with a p05 d15b8 8 valve ecu, i realized that whoever had the im before me had the wrong iac on itand that was the cause, but before i changed the iac i put on the ls ecu and the loping change from 800-1500 to 1200-2300. eventually i just unplugged the iac plug and it sat revving extrememly fast between 1700 and 1900 with the p75 and 1300 and 1400 with the p05. That might back up your theory with the iac. If you want to see if the p75 reacts differently to the iac, unbolt the iac and leave it hanging attached the coolant hoses and try each ecu, could show some difference in the way each ecu reads the iac. Its just an idea, im no expert at troubleshooting.

pdiggitydogg

Which iacv theory is that?
I tried blocking it off, which caused a very low idle.
If I just left it off, that would be a huge vac leak.

From all that, Ive removed the iacv as any sort of troubleshooting, since it makes no difference what I do with it.
At least from this, I can exclude a possibility

marshun

pretty confusing problem. my car acted in a similiar way and it was the fast idle valve. but i have an h22 so that might not be of any help to you.

but i am curious to see what the solution to your problem would be.

good luck!

pdiggitydogg

Nope, obd2 5spd b series TB's dont use a FITV

Just check back w/ the thread if you want to see any updates

93egsir

you are right my concern seems to be very similar. since you found my thread I read yours and have hit all the same bases. I have voltage tested and resistance tested every sensor that has to do w/ fuel and idle. I scoped the o2 sensor and that seems to be working right. I had a guy tell me to bore open the whole on my tb to let more air into the iacv. sounds like a bandaid not a fix. I think its time to shell out the $1000.00 for a s300 hondata w/ some tiem on a dyno.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2024232

builthatch

how much vacuum do you have at idle pdiggity?

pdiggitydogg

You know, I had thought about boring out the idle adjustment air inlet on my TB for the iacv as well (the hole behind the screw). I mean hell, Ive already done that on the intake manifold...

vac is 20inHg

Probot

i really cant believe out of almost 200 posts there is no solution!!!!

lol, time for a full swap....or new car

pdiggitydogg

No at this point Im fixing it. Ive got too much time and money sunk into the thing to just give up.
I know theres a solution, i just have to figure it out...

Probot

oh i know, as soon as i get some time to open the hood of my car il be doing the same.

d357r0y

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know, I had thought about boring out the idle adjustment air inlet on my TB for the iacv as well (the hole behind the screw). I mean hell, Ive already done that on the intake manifold...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting idea, not to say TBs are cheap but they aren't so expensive that if it was ruined it would break the bank. How much do you think it should be opened up? I'll experiment with mine if someone can give me insight to a recommended bore size.

pdiggitydogg

It would be tricky, since you need to maintain a taper, for the adjustment screw
If you pull the screw out and look, you can see that the hole is fairly small, maybe only 2-3mm across.
If I were to do this, I would probably start from the back side, not to mess with the taper, and step up to 5mm MAX.

Dont try this yet! I first want to try another TB all together. One that has no known issues

Probot

yea man, try swappin that out first before you go boring anything out