jabenne

well on my way home today driving at highway speed with cruise on, all of a sudden I started to hear this loud rattle. Wrote it off as a lose heat sheild and would check when I got home. About a min later the sound doubled in Intensity so I started to pull over when I took it out of gear the engine immed. quit. It was over heating ( the gauge had not gone up) now I notice a very small oil leak , went to start it again and after a few turns it started but the sound was terrible, had it towed home and will be takeing the head off tomorrow to see whats up. Now I know there isnt much to go on here but suggestion will be app. Thanks in advance

poison

What car is this in?

What motor? Any mods? What tranny (auto or manual), give us more info...

jabenne

sorry, no mods really just a intake tube and it is a manual tranny,

1995 Civic Ex, 1.6 Vtec D16z6
you guys know all of that tough.

poison

So, I am taking it the car does not start correct?

First thing.....does the car even crank? And describe the "noise" more..

Pho Real

B just give him your phone number and save some bandwith

jabenne

It will start, at this point its sounds like two hammers hitting together, its a pretty awful noise actually, my first thought was that I bent/broke a valve I had been "racing" the day before . But its definently coming from one of the cyl.

Wrist pin, connecting rod, Valve broke, rings broke, Cracked block trying to rule this major things out wont really know until I get the head off but nervous about what I might find.

poison

yeah I would suggest a compression test, but sounds like that will mess more things up.

Pull your spark plugs first and see what the results are..

DenMatic

you probably spun a rod bearing... but you say you leaked oil? check the block for any cracks. a bent rod would be the worse case scenario... either that or dropping a valve...

jabenne

thanks guys will let you know what I find tomorrow

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DenMatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably spun a rod bearing... but you say you leaked oil? check the block for any cracks. a bent rod would be the worse case scenario... either that or dropping a valve... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true. I will also say that spinning a rod bearing is one of the nastiest noises I have ever heard..

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Very true. I will also say that spinning a rod bearing is one of the nastiest noises I have ever heard..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Filliam H. Muffman

sorry to be n00b. but how exactly and what exactly is spinning a rod bearing. this is the first time i've heard.

DenMatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to be n00b. but how exactly and what exactly is spinning a rod bearing. this is the first time i've heard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

look at the crankshaft assembly along with rods...

in between the big end of the rod and the crankshaft journal are thin aluminum pieces called rod bearings. these make sure the rod and the crankshaft are nice and snug. what else keeps them snug? oil!

oil is the lifeblood of all motors... now... here are some probable causes of spun rod bearings:

1. oil deprivation
2. always redlining ( and i mean always!!!)
3. very dirty oil
4. oil thats too thin when it gets too hot (when track racing, i've learned to get a thicker viscosity)

the list goes on and on...

without oil, there's friction... so when there's friction, theres heat... aluminum bearings start rubbing against the crankshaft journal, become brittle, then spin! and finally, it gets all chopped up in there.... i guarantee you'll find aluminum shavings in your oil pan!

for replacement, the bottom of the block and rod have color codes (actually letters and numbers you have to match up to give you a color... refer to the helms for these codes) for oem honda bearings.

i also heard ACL bearings work wonders too...

DenMatic

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jabenne

Right on, today I pulled the head off the car and I was happy to see that there was no problem there. In the process now of pulling the motor and tranny ( cig break).

I did find alum. shavings in the oil, Tell me will this require new crank?

I intend on changing all of the pistons and rods and honeing the cyl walls since I will be in that far anyway, Can you guys give some suggestion on where to go, or if it is better to just go back to stock. Power would be nice but reliability is more important to me.

jon

How much money you wanna spend?
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...30019

The major problem with spinning a bearing is, crank damage
New crank 700-900$
used 150-300$

I am not at all a fan of refubished cranks.

If the crank has any scratches or heat spots I consider it trash (but that is me)
same goes for the rods.
I think your better off just buying a working motor . It saves a lot of time.
but thats just my .02$

jabenne

yea I hear you but I love doing this stuff, I get a kick out of makeing it work, any way its going good pulling it out first thing in the morning. Thanks to everybody for your help.

DenMatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jabenne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I did find alum. shavings in the oil, Tell me will this require new crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm sorry to say, but in most cases, yes...

jumpmann23

your better off finding a used d16z6 somewhere local to you, its probably gonna be cheaper to find a longblock than to rebuild what you have. everyone neglects the d series.