which route??
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which route??
i got a 99 si and i have a few mods but i do not know which way i should go, boost or all motor?? my car is a daily driver and im looking for a low 12 or 11 second street car, i know i can get there with both but i want to hear some opinions with what i can do with the motor in my car. i dont want to do it cheap but i am not looking to do a motor swap any time soon or anyhting of those standards. the car and motor only have 46k miles on it. thanks
#2
Man U FTW
On a stock internal B16, you could safely make 300-350whp with a good tune and the right fuel. For example, i've made 315whp on my stock block GSR for 2 years on 91 octane...this summer i'm shooting for over 400whp on E85 with the same stock block.
IMO All Motor has its place, but if you're looking for an affordable way to hit an 11-12sec 1/4 mile, boost is by far the easiest and cheapest route. My advice would be to check out the Forced Induction forum (and of course the FAQ at the top of the forum). Start learning about turbo setups...
IMO All Motor has its place, but if you're looking for an affordable way to hit an 11-12sec 1/4 mile, boost is by far the easiest and cheapest route. My advice would be to check out the Forced Induction forum (and of course the FAQ at the top of the forum). Start learning about turbo setups...
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if i went with a boost set-up i would want to do like full race or drag kit. any recomendations? an all motor b16 probaly wouldnt be the way to go unless i want to build the entire engine.
#4
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Re: (Milab21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Milab21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i went with a boost set-up i would want to do like full race or drag kit. any recomendations? an all motor b16 probaly wouldnt be the way to go unless i want to build the entire engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
full-race makes a really good turbo kit as long as you have the money for that, all the other parts you'll need to upgrade to support the turbo kit, tuning, etc etc.
you'll probably spend wayy more money trying to reach hp goals with an all motor setup.
full-race kit
full-race makes a really good turbo kit as long as you have the money for that, all the other parts you'll need to upgrade to support the turbo kit, tuning, etc etc.
you'll probably spend wayy more money trying to reach hp goals with an all motor setup.
full-race kit
#5
Man U FTW
There's an awfully large difference between the Drag and Full Race kits. My advice would be to build your own setup because 99% of the time, you can do it cheaper than buying a complete kit. Also, the Full Race kits, as nice as they may be, are rather expensive. I've had perfectly reliable setups and never spent close to the price of a Full Race setup. If you check into the Sponsor's Marketplace , you will find plenty of good, low-dollar turbo setups from companies like SLS, PeakBoost, AFI, Synapse Motorsports, etc...
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i use my car as a daily driver too so i wouldnt really have the time to take the engine out and have it rebuilt and stuff to get some nice horsepower with an all motor and def wont have the money for all that either. im gonna take a look into those other set-ups because the full race and drag are expensive, as long as i put down sum nice power ill be good
#7
Man U FTW
Full Race is expensive, but the parts are quality. The Drag kit is not worth the money, but is expensive because it is one of the few CARB legal turbo setups available for our cars. Unless you have to deal with emissions BS, i would suggest researching and building your own setup. Its not as hard as you may think...
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#9
Man U FTW
Another great place to start is the Forced Induction FAQ at the top of the FI Forum...it will answer the majority of the questions that new people have. Its worth checking out. There's even a complete write-up on turbo installation
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im gonna go check it out now. ive been around boosted hondas about 4 years ago when my brother boosted his gsr with the greddy kit, that kit is garbage but back then it was nice and no one had boosted hondas where i lived, and it was the first car i drove before i got my license so it was fast to me, then we went on and got the evo and wrx then everyone got them so im getting back into the hondas.
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Re: (Milab21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Milab21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i went with the peak boost kit or customized one, what would be my next step? should i put a built head on it or start from the bottom up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
better head studs, rods, valve train,
transmission
and maybe pistons nd block sleeves depeding on your budget
better head studs, rods, valve train,
transmission
and maybe pistons nd block sleeves depeding on your budget
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Re: (Kurly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kurly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
better head studs, rods, valve train,
transmission
and maybe pistons nd block sleeves depeding on your budget</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good, arnt the transmissions really good at holding mild horsepower?
better head studs, rods, valve train,
transmission
and maybe pistons nd block sleeves depeding on your budget</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds good, arnt the transmissions really good at holding mild horsepower?
#14
Man U FTW
Re: (Milab21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Milab21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i went with the peak boost kit or customized one, what would be my next step? should i put a built head on it or start from the bottom up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
After you build a turbo setup, your next step would be a bottom end build. At this point you need to determine what your realistic goals are...this will tell you whether or not sleeving is necessary (500+whp). The general rebuild is using forged lower compression pistons, Eagle rods, new bearings, ARP studs, a new waterpump and a new oil pump. Many times people overbore to 81.5mm to ensure clean cylinder walls and a perfect seal with the new rings. After this whole mess is complete, snag a new set of cams (and new valvetrain if you can afford it) and get retuned. There's no reason to mess with the tranny as long as you're under 500whp. I'm doing almost exactly what i just listed above and my goals are in my sig. If you have questions, let me know.
After you build a turbo setup, your next step would be a bottom end build. At this point you need to determine what your realistic goals are...this will tell you whether or not sleeving is necessary (500+whp). The general rebuild is using forged lower compression pistons, Eagle rods, new bearings, ARP studs, a new waterpump and a new oil pump. Many times people overbore to 81.5mm to ensure clean cylinder walls and a perfect seal with the new rings. After this whole mess is complete, snag a new set of cams (and new valvetrain if you can afford it) and get retuned. There's no reason to mess with the tranny as long as you're under 500whp. I'm doing almost exactly what i just listed above and my goals are in my sig. If you have questions, let me know.
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Re: (Schister66)
For the valvetrain I see a lot of people using gsr cams, are they that good and if not which company makes good turbo cams? is a 81.5mm bore good enough or if it was smaller would there be a greater chance of blowing the motor?
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