Ok Ive dropped in my LS
#5
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Re: Ok Ive dropped in my LS (Inaniac)
I'm suggesting turbo just cuz you got an LS swap instead of a B16 swap. Going LS/VTEC is NOT getting an LS changeover and putting on a VTEC head. It's getting a VTEC changeover (e.g. B16) and getting a non-VTEC block. The water pumps, timing belts, tranny (closer gearing on VTEC trannies good for all motor), distributors, etc. all need to match the head, not the block, so if you went LS/VTEC, you'd basically be buying another changever all over again. Go turbo, but don't boost too much till you build up the bottom end.
#6
I said I don't want a title!
Re: Ok Ive dropped in my LS (Inaniac)
Here's a question: What kind of car did you drop the 1.8 non-vtec motor in to and how is the performance now? I've been thinking of doing this to my 93 hatch to make a SM autox car and I was wondering how the torque was. With my plans in mind, I go for a JRSC for great low-end torque with no lag.
#7
Re: Ok Ive dropped in my LS (Todd00)
the ls is all about low end torque...... I put it in a EG Civic Coupe.... Its great it has all kinds of low end but it still gets pulled on a but when it comes to top end....but it jumps off the line
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#9
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Re: Ok Ive dropped in my LS (FFSquad)
Turbo.
What Gen LS is it? Anyway, the most common LS for swaps is the B18B, which has an ideally low 9.2:1 CR...perfect for turbo. The stock internals are quite stout, and can handle a well tuned 350hp or so. If I were you, I would go with a Rev Hard Stage II kit, get an MSD 6AL along with the other ignition goodies, fuel upgrades, and a tuning tool such as an S-AFC, or a Hondata ECU ideally. With the right ignition and fuel, and good tuning, you can turn consectutive low 12's, even high 11's on a completely stock internal motor.
Too many people think that you have to build your engines internals before boost. If I knew what I know now, I'd still be on a stock motor, I'd just have DFI instead. It is cheaper...and if you blow it from bad tuning, big deal, pick up another shortblock for $400-$500, slap it on, get on the dyno, and you're good to go. It sure beats sending your block to Bensons to get it rebuilt...which will set you back a couple grand.
What Gen LS is it? Anyway, the most common LS for swaps is the B18B, which has an ideally low 9.2:1 CR...perfect for turbo. The stock internals are quite stout, and can handle a well tuned 350hp or so. If I were you, I would go with a Rev Hard Stage II kit, get an MSD 6AL along with the other ignition goodies, fuel upgrades, and a tuning tool such as an S-AFC, or a Hondata ECU ideally. With the right ignition and fuel, and good tuning, you can turn consectutive low 12's, even high 11's on a completely stock internal motor.
Too many people think that you have to build your engines internals before boost. If I knew what I know now, I'd still be on a stock motor, I'd just have DFI instead. It is cheaper...and if you blow it from bad tuning, big deal, pick up another shortblock for $400-$500, slap it on, get on the dyno, and you're good to go. It sure beats sending your block to Bensons to get it rebuilt...which will set you back a couple grand.
#10
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Damn, that was fast...
I thought just yesterday you said your original shop backed out of the swap and you were looking for another shop to do the work which would take around a week or so? Well, I guess you had some crazy hookups to get the motor in eh?! You must enjoy driving your car more now than before...congrats. I'd go turbo...
[Modified by MugenHondaFormula1, 8:23 AM 7/10/2001]
[Modified by MugenHondaFormula1, 8:23 AM 7/10/2001]
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