AgentH

So while I'm letting my 93 civic cool, I thought I'd fire away.

On my way into work today, about 2 miles from my destination, my oil light starts flickering. By the time I got there, it was on solid. I gighre it's running low on oil (have a leaky front main seal). So checked oil, was down so put a quart in. Checked after idling a little while and oil level ok. Left work and about 15 min in while on 95, it starts flickering and shortly after turns solid red again. I pulled over about 3-5 miles later. Engine stalls just as I find a spot to park.

White smoke is coming from my oil fill cap.

Oil level is still ok

No cel from this, but I do get a #6 cel for a ECT sensor that must be going bad. Light comes on after 15 min of driving typically. Engine doesn't overheat or the gauge doesn't ever really change. So I haven't prioritized replacing it yet.

Thoughts? Bad oil level sensor? Bad oil pump?

Thanks in advance!

AgentH

I am sure I have an issue, but I drove to the garage 45 miles away w/out any issues. The Engine ran/sounded normal. Oil levels stayed normal.

I opened the oil fill when I got home and still, some white smoke was coming out.

I should note... I used a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer only about 80 - 100 miles before I had the issue.

Another note. After I let the engine cool for half an hour the last time, I drove for about 5 - 10 min before the light flickered and came back on.

I pulled over about 25 min later and rechecked oil level and checked under the oil cap for excessive smoking. It wasn't smoking as much. And oil level on the dip stick (though not accurate) was visible and high.

I read one mechanic recommend replacing the oil pressure switch with a pressure gauge to see if there's a oil pressure problem. He also mentioned that sludge in the valve cover or oil pickup screen can cause obvious issues and it is most likely the oil pump if it's not sludge or a bad oil pressure switch.

strategy400

The sealer is sealing your oil journals, pickup screen and pressure switch opening? A common cause of leaky seals is contaminated oil. Safest thing is to remove the sensor and connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Be careful because the threads are super fine.

The smoke and stalling does not bode well for your engine.

AgentH

I'm worried for it. I should have sold it 6 months ago when I originally planned. Now I have a ton of maintenance to do on it.

I'm going to try and rent a oil pressure gauge from an autoparts store if they're available for rent.

I can't see the switch from above. Do you know if I have to take the intake manifold off to get to it or can I get to it from below?

If its my oil pump that is going bad, I'll probably replace that along with the timing belt and front main seal. The front seal is really what is leaking (I believe). This thing has a laundry list of things that need work. I'm wondering if I should cut my losses and sell it for what I can get for it or do the necessary mechanical work before moving to sell.

jbpnoman

It's a lot easier to get to the oil pressure switch from under the car. It's directly above the oil filter. I usually wait until oil change time if I have to do something with mine, simply because removing the oil filter makes it a joke to get to.

nealnanoHX

Try replacing the oil pressure sending unit/sensor it could be bad. If that does not fix it then you need to check oil pressure. White smoke from a motor with so miles on it is normal, it is blow by. If there is a ton of smoke then replace your PCV valve.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

one thing NOT to do is use some miracle in a can. If your main seal is leaking, then you should fix it or sell the car.

Adding foreign "magical fix it" not only contaminates your oil, but it could lead to other problems since it seals everything else in the engine as well as your main seal.

Im not familiar with the blue devil product, but does it say to change your oil XXX miles after using?

Maybe some seafoam might be able to undo the damage.

AgentH

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll change the oil and filter anyways, although I doubt it's been that long.

I'll look up where this is. Thanks for the suggestion. I'd rather not replace my fuel pump if I don't have to. Maybe I can test it before replacing it. I'll check the PCV valve too. Thanks for that suggestion as well.

Magical Fix in a can didn't fix the leak either. According to their website, it's a non-petrolium based solution so it does not affect the seals in a negative manner. The FAQ does not say you need to change your oil after driving x miles. I figure I'd give it a shot since it's an old car and my secondary car. Still would rather not destroy my motor because of it.
I'll check out the seafoam stuff. Thanks for the suggestions.

This couldn't have occurred at a worse time btw. ... Just about to change clutch in my primary car.

strategy400

I believe a new oil pump will come with the front main seal aka crank seal.

I'd carefully remove the old filter, do whatever with the sender (repair/replace, connect pressure test gauge) while youre down there, then carefully reinstall the old filter while testing (try not to bang it around and dislodge any crud). Once youre satisfied with your testing and repair do an oil and filter change.

By the way, I've found Purolator filters to be superior. They carry them at my Walmart. I swear it feels like the car runs better. I also recommend Mobile 1 because since I switched valve adjustments are no longer required. Everytime I open it up to check the lash there is no adjustment required, whereas frequent adjustment was required when I used Castrol fossil oil. It seems like my cams ceased to wear. I have a ~180 mile daily commute which includes a steep mountain pass - quite a daily torture test.

Kista20

I know the oil pump when I did my 97 & 99 civics they came with the seal, if you end up replacing the pump I would also replace the cam seal as well and it uses the same seal as the pump, also everything timing belt related. I had either a leaking pan or front main seal on my 97 and needed to change out the timing belt again so I replaced everything while I was in there.

AgentH

Are the cam & crank seals hard to replace? I was going to replace them on my subaru when I did my timing belt but decided that to remove them, when they were not leaking, was probably not a good idea considering how secure the cam pulleys were on the engine. And also considering how tough the cam seals are. The civic has very little room between the engine and the shock tower.

I bought a Oil Pressure gauge set from Hobo Freight yesterday. I'm going to test it out today after work. I need to find out what the oil pressure SHOULD be and if it fluctuates much between idle and cruise.

I was doing some research since I didn't know where the oil pressure sending unit is. I tried to find the website I found the other day with a nice picture of the back of the engine. It showed how someone recommended installing a oil pressure gauge for permanent fitment. According to how he had it plumbed up, the sending unit is next to the oil filter. And the switch, which someone had mentioned on here, is above the filter. Can someone confirm with me that the sending unit is to the left of the filter.

Hidenplanvew

Some of the advice on here is crappy...

1. your oil pressure gauge needs to have a BSP adapter or you could strip out the port then your in a world of hurt.

2. Before you pull the filter put some sea foam or BG Engine flush and run for awhile till atleast hot .. If your oil pressure light comes on shut off!

3. If your light came on and you drive for 3 or 4 miles like that you prob did some damage to your mains or rod bearings. The light comes on at 3psi of pressure but its to late by then. (if the sending unit isnt bad.. its not to normal to have them fail)

4. Changing to Crappy 1 (mobil 1) Is the worst idea as the new stuff they have been putting out is just junk. My shop built a metal on metal tester that shows what first start and hard load does to your motor. Mobil one failed ever part of the test and was worst then castrol gtx. Mobil one has gone down hill for the last few years, There stuff like 10 years ago was the ****, but now there stuff is just junk. Also if the OP were to switch to synthetic oil he would just poor oil out from his seals! Also unless you had a ton of metal on metal wear from your cams your adjustment shouldt change that quick. I have done tons of valve adjustments and never had one issue but then again I actually know what I am doing...

AgentH

It does. Read that somewhere it's actually BSP and not NPT. Problem is, the pressure gauge adapters are not marked... Hopefully I can compare the switch's threads and pitch to the adapter's thread's and it be obvious. ... kinda wondering how it has become common knowledge that it's NPT on here. If NPT fittings are screwing up the aluminum blocks, wouldn't that have gotten out?

I've heard this from various sources, but I don't understand why. Are the molecules smaller or something?

Will I then need to replace oil & filter?

I drove 45 miles home w/it on.

AgentH

I took Hidenplanvew's suggestion and used the sea foam. While letting the engine idle, I monitored the dash for idiot light activity. The engine temps came up and 7 min later, nothing. So I went for a spin. Nothing.

I decided to check the oil pressure levels. So I replaced the oil and filter while I was at it. The damn oil pressure sensor is a 24mm deep well, which I didn't have, so it took me 2 trys to get the oil pressure reading. Anyways, the oil pressure read 84 psi @ 3k rpm while cold and 72 psi @ 3k rpm while hot. The little booklet that the gauge came with said it should be 50 psi. Is my pressure too high? Is this a bad thing? I figure I have pressure and that's a good thing.

I also think that the blue devil could have clogged the oil pressure sender, leading to the dummy light to come on. When I used the sea foam, that very well could have un-clogged it, and allowed it to operate as normal.

Unrelated, while I was at it, I replaced the ECT sensor which was causing a CEL after 15 min of driving.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

rule of thumb is 10 psi at every 1000 rpms.

my car sits at 70ish at 3200 rpms.. so having high oil pressure isnt really a bad thing.

i would drain the seafoam out and add in fresh cheap oil and filter, and let it circulate for a few miles of driving, then change to fresh oil (I use Rotella) and new filter.

zcegdx

iTrader: (4)

Chastise him for use some miracle in a can **** then say try seafoam...

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^
If you knew what the products do, then you could make a post trying to act like you know what you are talking about.

zcegdx

iTrader: (4)

I know exactly what seafoam does. Its the same scenario.

Engines broke lets pour this in to fix.

That made it worse so lets pour this in now to fix that.

On what planet does that make any sense at all.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I never said seafoam was a miracle in a can. I said to use it to try and clean up the miracle in a cans damage. which it did, you know, since you know what seafoam does.

If you read what i said when you quoted me, you should be able to fully understand the situation. But since reading AND understanding seems to be an issue for you. Im going to just leave this thread alone.

zcegdx

iTrader: (4)

Seafoam is the same miracle in a can type crap. Whether you say it is or isnt.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

OK big guy..

thanks for chiming in.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

OK big guy. heres your award


thanks for chiming in.

zcegdx

iTrader: (4)

Good job on posting the same **** twice idiot.

No award