Whig-it

Now i know most people will say to just convert to OBD1 and call it a day. i have no Problem with that. But here in lines my queastion. I have a 98 CX w/Y8 swap. i was thinking of turboing it, but run into issues with tuning.
I know the greddy E-manage will work, but i ahve heard some not so fun stuff about them. In my state the require you to hook up the computer, so to be legal i ahve to keep it OBD2. I could just disconect the wastegate and runs tock ecu and injectors a day before inspection or what not.
But i would rather not deal with that. I wondered is anyone had found a way to use a conversion harness, but also wire in the stock ecu to read data and keep the inspection guys happy, yet not allow the ecu to control the motor.
THe problem i ran into is if you hook up a second ecu and give it information, yet not allow it to control stuff, won't it set codes? I figure this is all a stab in the dark, but i figured it's worth a shot.

thanks

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whig-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now i know most people will say to just convert to OBD1 and call it a day. i have no Problem with that. But here in lines my queastion. I have a 98 CX w/Y8 swap. i was thinking of turboing it, but run into issues with tuning.
I know the greddy E-manage will work, but i ahve heard some not so fun stuff about them. In my state the require you to hook up the computer, so to be legal i ahve to keep it OBD2. I could just disconect the wastegate and runs tock ecu and injectors a day before inspection or what not.
But i would rather not deal with that. I wondered is anyone had found a way to use a conversion harness, but also wire in the stock ecu to read data and keep the inspection guys happy, yet not allow the ecu to control the motor.
THe problem i ran into is if you hook up a second ecu and give it information, yet not allow it to control stuff, won't it set codes? I figure this is all a stab in the dark, but i figured it's worth a shot.

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

If im reading this correctly, you want to run an OBD2-OBD1 Conversion harness so you setup the ECU for tuning, but then when inspection time comes, you want to just plug the stock ECU back in...and then expect it to read the motor correctly?

Sorry bro...if thats way off, explain it in lehman terms

Whig-it

yes and no, i want to run an 0bd1 ecu for tuning, but still ahve the 0bd2 ecu hooked up so the DLC still works for inspection stuff

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whig-it &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes and no, i want to run an 0bd1 ecu for tuning, but still ahve the 0bd2 ecu hooked up so the DLC still works for inspection stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok. I was going to say...you're going to need an OBD1 Ecu if you plan on running a program w/ tuning, unless you had some kind of standalone.

You can easily just change out the ecu back to OBD2 when inspection time comes, and it would run. However, its not going to be reading anthing correctly, unless you changed the entire system to a standalone at that time....get what im sayin? lol

JDMFantasy2k

it's funny you ask that because i had initially pondered the same question. But the fact of the matter is it would take an unbelievable ammount of work to make it work properly and wouldn't really be worth it. Hell i just took my turbo off for emissions and threw the stock ecu back in, just so i wouldn't waste 20 bucks if i failed for some reason.

So here's my theory in all this. OBD2 is picky, very picky. So say you hook up both ecu's in parallel (and lets assume you don't have any resistance monitoring issues, which you would definately have because you just modified every circuit on the motor). You would want the OBD1 ecu to run the motor, correcting fuel trim and ignition and such, but if the OBD2 ecu is monitoring these parameters, it's going to want to change them, and when it tries to make a change, and realizes that it's outputs aren't changing it's inputs, you'll end up with a check engine light because it's not able to control things. So it it possible to do this? Maybe with a ton of resources. But opening the wastegate is probably the better idea. Although something may be possible because i have seen K20 fit's with 2 ecus

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMFantasy2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's funny you ask that because i had initially pondered the same question. But the fact of the matter is it would take an unbelievable ammount of work to make it work properly and wouldn't really be worth it. Hell i just took my turbo off for emissions and threw the stock ecu back in, just so i wouldn't waste 20 bucks if i failed for some reason.

So here's my theory in all this. OBD2 is picky, very picky. So say you hook up both ecu's in parallel (and lets assume you don't have any resistance monitoring issues, which you would definately have because you just modified every circuit on the motor). You would want the OBD1 ecu to run the motor, correcting fuel trim and ignition and such, but if the OBD2 ecu is monitoring these parameters, it's going to want to change them, and when it tries to make a change, and realizes that it's outputs aren't changing it's inputs, you'll end up with a check engine light because it's not able to control things. So it it possible to do this? Maybe with a ton of resources. But opening the wastegate is probably the better idea. Although something may be possible because i have seen K20 fit's with 2 ecus </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea..this sounds about right.

Although as stated above (by me), I have seen people just swap the ecu back in, and were fine...just wasnt reading any fuel adjustments, etc.

Whig-it

i figured i would just have to keep the wastegate open and the stock ecu and injectors in fo rinspection, but i figured it was worth a shot looking intot he 2 ecu thing.

Jay_Sensing

We do it here all the time. Just yank the OBD1 and throw stock ECU and injectors back in and either open the wastegate or drive it around babying it long enough to do a full drive cycle and she will pass with no problems.

00civicsiboy

I am in the same dillema. I have an lsvtec that runs an obd1 ecu. The vehicle however is in the obd2 year. The car runs on an obd2 ecu but throws a knock sensor.

What should I do?

I have emissions in 4 months.

dafuzzbudd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We do it here all the time. Just yank the OBD1 and throw stock ECU and injectors back in and either open the wastegate or drive it around babying it long enough to do a full drive cycle and she will pass with no problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that will work, i think it's the only thing that you can do

Marauder

You can use a piggyback system, which will be the only way to keep the OBD2 ECU and be able to add fuel and adjust timing. Its the same method that Edelbrock uses. Taking a piggyback controller and adding extra fuel injectors you can add an additional fuel map for the secondary injectors and runing a timing curve that will adjust the timing with boost.

That's the only way to keep the factory ECU in place without swapping ECU's. Its not difficult to do if you install a Edelbrock PerformerX intake and add the secondary fuel injectors.

JDMFantasy2k

will that work with an OBD2 honda and not throw a cel, because i know when i was using the afc hack on my OBD2 ecu (yes i know it sucks), it was throwing a BARO code which is in the map sensor and there's no way around. Do piggybacks like the emanage have programming for this?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00civicsiboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am in the same dillema. I have an lsvtec that runs an obd1 ecu. The vehicle however is in the obd2 year. The car runs on an obd2 ecu but throws a knock sensor.

What should I do?

I have emissions in 4 months. </TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe try running it with an LS ecu instead of a vtec ecu, because i don't think LS' have knock sensors.

spork motorsports

emanage is garbarge, you're going to fail viasual when they see a turbo under the hood,

i belive hondata runs obd2 piggybacks

00civicsiboy

I just got off the phone with a friend of mine and he said that all we would need to do would be to somehow mount the knock sensor to the block..

Do you think this would work?

turtleman321

if you dont care about the ecu reading knock just plug in the sensor and zip tie it onto the harness

Marauder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMFantasy2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will that work with an OBD2 honda and not throw a cel, because i know when i was using the afc hack on my OBD2 ecu (yes i know it sucks), it was throwing a BARO code which is in the map sensor and there's no way around. Do piggybacks like the emanage have programming for this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use something like a missing link or there is also a voltage clamp you can put on the MAP sensor so the stock ecu will not see boost.

00civicsiboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtleman321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont care about the ecu reading knock just plug in the sensor and zip tie it onto the harness</TD></TR></TABLE>

It somehow needs to read some type of vibration in order for it to not send a signal to the ecu.

Where could I attach it on the block??

Jay_Sensing

You take one of the unused holes in the back of the ls block, tap it for a knock sensor, and then screw it in and tq it to 7 ft lbs I believe. Look on c-speedracing.com for the preferred hole to make it easier.


spork, Hondata is an OBD1 program only until you get into the K series motors. They have nothing available to the OBD2 B series motors and also, aside from a cat, most states don't have a visual for turbo cars so it doesn't matter. As long as you have a cat, you are golden.

JDMFantasy2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtleman321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont care about the ecu reading knock just plug in the sensor and zip tie it onto the harness</TD></TR></TABLE>

right, but you can't do that with the AFC hack because it defys the purpose, and that' basically only good with an FMU which is totally useless IMO.

Whig-it

i am kinda lucky, cause they don't really look under the hood, they just check to see if the cat is there and plug me in. i am just going to see what happens, and try the swap ecu's back a day or 2 before