DulinDragons

Hey there, i searched pretty well and got the answers to most of my questions about this topic and have one more to deal with. I going to get rid of my abs on my 94 civic ex. I have a dx master cylinder, dx proportioning valve, front dx lines. My question or two questions are: Do i need a non abs power booster to run a non abs master cylinder and if i hook up the lines that go to the rear calipers to the non abs proportioning valve, would there be enough pressure to make them work?

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DulinDragons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey there, i searched pretty well and got the answers to most of my questions about this topic and have one more to deal with. I going to get rid of my abs on my 94 civic ex. I have a dx master cylinder, dx proportioning valve, front dx lines. My question or two questions are: Do i need a non abs power booster to run a non abs master cylinder and if i hook up the lines that go to the rear calipers to the non abs proportioning valve, would there be enough pressure to make them work? </TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you want to get rid of your abs?

Richard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do you want to get rid of your abs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because abs SUCKS!

abs is for idiot who do not belong behind the wheel of a car and who can not control a car

ABS is for automatic drivers and people who like cruise control and power steering

ABS is for people who do not want too drive a car they want the car too drive them hence all the automatic and fail safe bullshit they want on there car

i have driven many ABS car's and in a word i hate it!

NONE abs the the only way too go for the serious driver and the driver who seeks real braking ability not some ******* comp telling how he needs to brake!

DulinDragons

exactly, but would anyone happen to know any info about this? I need help with this.

JasonGhostz

Based on the info at these links (Chassis/Master Power):
1994 2DR EX ABS
http://slhondaparts.com/browse...POWER
1994 2DR DX
http://slhondaparts.com/browse...POWER

You'll see that there are differences between 6 of the components:
94 2DR EX ABS.......94 2DR DX......:....Component
46662-SK7-003 vs 46662-S04-J01 : Cap, Reserve Tank
46100-SR3-833 vs 46100-SR3-033 : Master Cylinder Assy.
46400-SK7-A02 vs 46400-SR3-921 : Power Assy., Master
46669-SE3-003 vs 46669-692-003 : Seal, Reservoir Tank
46404-SR3-A00 vs 46404-SR0-A01 : Tube A, Master Power (LH, EFI)
46405-SR3-A20 vs 46405-SR0-A01 : Tube B, Master Power

Now look at this:
1994 2DR EX ABS
http://slhondaparts.com/browse...=true
1994 2DR DX
http://slhondaparts.com/browse...=true

Switch to the DX's Prop Valve, Cylinder, Booster (Master Power Assembly), and a few of your Brake Hydraulic Hard Lines (#s 6, 7, 8, 12, and associated hardware from the 2nd picture). Of course, remove the Modulator, Control Unit, Sensors and Connectors.

Disclaimer: I DON'T HAVE ABS. All of the above is what I've gathered based on the information at dealer sites like the above, and my Helm Manual. Study the diagram (better yet, buy this: http://www.helminc.com) and see what you can see.

If you happen to take off your ABS Hubs (front OR rear, but particularly the rear), PLEASE TAKE MEASUREMENTS of the inner and outter diameters... of sell them to me for cheap.

Good Luck!
JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 3:47 PM 5/17/2007

DulinDragons

you are awesome, thanks!

JasonGhostz

I updated my post to get the correct diagram #s for the 94 2DR DX's hard lines...

There are a lot of other things you must do. Again, I reccommend buying the Helm Manual, as it points out each and every component, and how to go about removing/replacing them. It also explains how the Modulator and Control Unit work together, and what to do when anything goes "wrong".

Consider this: The quality and reliability of your new system will depend greatly on the planning and effort of your work. No big surprise, as that's the way most things are. Understand that doing something like this, you either go all the way, or don't go at all. Removing the ABS has a lot smaller margin for error than putting in shifter ***** and changing the oil.

The good thing is that you have most of the "expensive" parts already. DEFINITELY KEEP YOUR OLD STUFF, and either sell it (after a couple of months of test driving) or not. If you're the kind of guy who can remember everything about what you do, then great. But otherwise, don't forget to note what part is what.

Lastly... **FLARE NUT WRENCH** Get the right one(s), as this project's life depends on it.

Take a lot of pictures, and do a nice writeup. It will serve as a great guideline for the reverse procedure (Installing ABS)...

Best of luck to you!
JasonGhostz

Get the manual...

DulinDragons

sounds great