No power on the swap
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
No power on the swap
Well i got another coil pack swapped it in ran for 10 mins . Then the car doesnt want to start anymore theres no spark again. So i swapped back in the old coil pack and took a test light to it hook the cable part to a bolt and then with the cranking on the postive wire it lite up and while cranking it was pulsing.
I forgot that my obd2 ecu was in the car and pugged in and it started the car. It shouldnt be able to start the car cause the motor is a d15b with a z6 head. So i shut the car off plugged in the ps28 and it started up i let it run for a min and the idle was a going up and down cause of a vaccum leak. As soon as i hit the gas it shut off any have been getting no spark. Suggestions?
I forgot that my obd2 ecu was in the car and pugged in and it started the car. It shouldnt be able to start the car cause the motor is a d15b with a z6 head. So i shut the car off plugged in the ps28 and it started up i let it run for a min and the idle was a going up and down cause of a vaccum leak. As soon as i hit the gas it shut off any have been getting no spark. Suggestions?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
My gfs dad gave me a whole other dizzy am i able to swap everything over? with the new coil pack and it should be fine or is something killing these coil packs left and right? None of my fuses are popping which isnt making any sense?
And why did my car start with the obd2 ecu?
And why did my car start with the obd2 ecu?
#6
Re: No power on the swap
You lack spark. Does the fuel pump also fail to prime? Is the CEL on? What year Civic? How are you able to plug either an OBDII or OBDI ECU into the car without changing the wire harnesses?
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
its a 97 hatch dx.I have a jumper harness for the p28 ecu.and well my ecu for the ex i just had laying around when i had my ex. It doesnt make sense why the ex ecu would start the car when it looks for a crank sensor. Now with the p28 ecu car doesnt start at all. I did a wire tuck and had to lengthen some of the wires for the fuse box under the hood would this have something to do with the problem. Everytime i put a new coil pack it fired right up after that it runs for 10 mins then nothing no fuses are popping then its back to no spark. One of the wires fell out of the socket on the fuse box thats located under the hood but has been relocated where my passenger side air bag is .
THere is a wire that pulled out from the socket on the connector. Its located on the fuse box under the hood . Its a grey 8 pin connector. Here are the other wires on the connector to better here you.
------------------------------------
1 big solid white wire
---------------------------------------
1 big white wire with black stripe
---------------------------------------------
1 small wire black/red stripe
-----------------------------------------
1 med white/black stripe
-----------------------
1 med white /green stripe
--------------
1 small black/yellow stripe
------------------
1 small green with grey spots along the wire
I also noticed one of the wires have a slice in it with alot of the strands not connected Its on the largest connector its a 9 pin grey the largest out of the 4 connectors thats located on the under the hood fuse box. Its a bigger white wire with green stripe would this wire keep distroying or make my car not have any spark? Should i snip and and make a better connection or just tape it up with electrical tape?
THere is a wire that pulled out from the socket on the connector. Its located on the fuse box under the hood . Its a grey 8 pin connector. Here are the other wires on the connector to better here you.
------------------------------------
1 big solid white wire
---------------------------------------
1 big white wire with black stripe
---------------------------------------------
1 small wire black/red stripe
-----------------------------------------
1 med white/black stripe
-----------------------
1 med white /green stripe
--------------
1 small black/yellow stripe
------------------
1 small green with grey spots along the wire
I also noticed one of the wires have a slice in it with alot of the strands not connected Its on the largest connector its a 9 pin grey the largest out of the 4 connectors thats located on the under the hood fuse box. Its a bigger white wire with green stripe would this wire keep distroying or make my car not have any spark? Should i snip and and make a better connection or just tape it up with electrical tape?
Last edited by Frost7177; 10-06-2009 at 12:19 PM.
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#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: No power on the swap
what coil pack are you talking about? What motor do you have in the car?
The OBD2 Computer can start the car becuase you dont need a knock sensor or crank sensor to run the car, it iwll just run like ****.
The OBD2 Computer can start the car becuase you dont need a knock sensor or crank sensor to run the car, it iwll just run like ****.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
The fuel pump does prime . The distributor that i am using is a z6 . The coil inside the distributor is what im referring to. Ill get good spark whenever i put in a good ignition coil for about 10 mins then bam nothing and the motor turns but doesnt crank. The motor is a d15b with a z6 head.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: No power on the swap
D15B's have Z6 heads from the factory. Unless ofc its a OBD2 D15b
It is possible that your ECU is bad and is burning out the coils.
It is possible that your ECU is bad and is burning out the coils.
#14
Re: No power on the swap
Have you had the igniter unit tested?
When you install a new coil, the engine runs for 10 min and then stops. Is this because the coil blows? Have you tested it?
How old are the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs? Have you tested spark at the plugs? Is spark bright white or is it weak orange or deep blue?
When you lack spark, have you tested whether you also lack battery voltage on the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit?
When you install a new coil, the engine runs for 10 min and then stops. Is this because the coil blows? Have you tested it?
How old are the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs? Have you tested spark at the plugs? Is spark bright white or is it weak orange or deep blue?
When you lack spark, have you tested whether you also lack battery voltage on the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit?
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
Im gonna have to go and try and test them. Does autozone test ignition coils?
I did test the postive wire inside the dizzy with a test light it was lighting up and pulsing when i cranked.
The ignitor is the other peice with the 4 plugs on it if so i replaced that with another one i had that was good. And there was no spark.
I took a spark plug i had laying around and i stuck it in the boot clyinder number one and laided in onto of my painted valve cover had my brother stand infront and look for a spark. No spark what so ever.
My cap rotor wires and plugs were all just bought the other day.
I did test the postive wire inside the dizzy with a test light it was lighting up and pulsing when i cranked.
The ignitor is the other peice with the 4 plugs on it if so i replaced that with another one i had that was good. And there was no spark.
I took a spark plug i had laying around and i stuck it in the boot clyinder number one and laided in onto of my painted valve cover had my brother stand infront and look for a spark. No spark what so ever.
My cap rotor wires and plugs were all just bought the other day.
#16
Re: No power on the swap
Test the coil yourself. See below.
If you turn the key to ON(II) instead of ON(III) for this test, does the test light remain on steady or pulse?
Did you test for spark as you describe below?
You used a good method to check for spark correctly, except that you should not use a painted metal surface to ground the plug for this test. You must firmly ground the threads of the plug against a clean metal surface of the engine. Otherwise, you may get a false "no spark" outcome and you may damage the coil. Spark is good if it is bright white when this test is done properly.
I did test the postive wire inside the dizzy with a test light it was lighting up and pulsing when i cranked.
The ignitor is the other peice with the 4 plugs on it if so i replaced that with another one i had that was good. And there was no spark.
I took a spark plug i had laying around and i stuck it in the boot clyinder number one and laided in onto of my painted valve cover had my brother stand infront and look for a spark. No spark what so ever.
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
I just took my dizzy to autozone and both the ignitor and coil pack tested fine. Im completely stumped now. I guess im gonna have to pull every fuse to see if any of them are bad. I had my engine ground thats located on the thermostat housing i moved it over alittle bit to where its supposed to be not on the actual cap side on the thermo houseing. As soon as i check all the fuses and find my key ill try to start it.
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: No power on the swap
nothing no damn spark. Maybe the other component is bad inside the dizzy i guess im gonna have to break down and spend $165. For another one.
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GSR_EJ2
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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09-03-2009 07:02 AM