Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

Yes, we need another one of these...

Issue: No crank; no start.

Vehicle Information: 94 Civic, d15b7 engine.

Symptoms: When turning key to position 2, fuel pump primes. Turn key to position 3 to start, click from front (starter) and fuel pump primes again. Started once to a rough idle.

When discovered: Vehicle had a rough idle. Discovered IACV bolt was loose. Stopped engine to tighten bolt; vehicle wouldn’t restart. Replaced starter with a used OEM; same result. Replaced starter with reman: same result.

Diagnostic Information:

• Battery Voltage: 12.41v

Ground connections:

• Block to ground: .1ohm
• Block to battery: .2ohm
• Tranny to ground: .4ohm
• Tranny to battery: .5ohm
• Battery to ground: .3ohm
• Starter to battery: .4ohm

When testing ground, also placed probe on positive battery and other probe to grounding location. All locations read 12.41v. The same as at the battery. (all grounds are 4ga wire)

• Voltage at starter: 12.41v
• Voltage at signal wire when turning key to position 3: 12.41v

When turning key, voltage drops to 10.3v when starter is “supposed” to engage.

Clutch safety is present and verified functional with multimeter. (aka, it wasn’t laying on the floor or missing)

Jumped starter across relay: starter clicks, does not spin to engage flywheel. This should rule out any ignition issues and single out the starter itself.

Engine rotates freely. Push starts fine.

Pulled all fuses under dash and in engine bay - no blown fuses.

Removed starter and bench tested: plunger extends and spins; however there is no load on it while bench testing.

Am I missing something in my diagnostics? Grounds are fine, voltage is fine, battery tested good with load tester. I’m leaning towards a defective starter. I have researched other threads with similar issues, most are unresolved where the OP never replied for the solution. A few I have found indicated faulty reman starters (we all know how AZ and AAP remans are).

I’m open to ideas and other diagnostics.

2x0

mk378

Measure from engine block to battery (-) post while trying to start. It should stay near zero volts. If the voltage jumps up, the ground connection is bad.

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

I did jump the power to the starter terminal and it only made a single click.

I didn't bench test it before I installed it. However, last night I did remove it. I hooked a jumper cable from the starter housing to my negative battery terminal, left the power hooked up, and lengthened my ignition wire. When I turned the key, the bendix shot out but didn't turn. I currently have it in my truck and I'm going to be stopping by advance on my way home.

As for the battery amps, I tested it with a battery tester and the results were good. I even had it at advance last week to get it tested on their machine and it was good. It was kept on a trickle charger.

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

I get 0.16v when turning the key

Replaced starter with a new one. Bench tested it before hand and it extends and spins. Installed in car and: click.

So maybe I'm not getting enough current? I pulled my foreman over and hooked the jumper cables up for a few min, turned the key and the starter turned, but not enough amps to completely turn the engine over.

So I went and hooked up my truck, I still get a click when turning the key. That's what I had before when I assumed that it was a bad starter. Could my batter just be that dead that it won't even let me jump it? It's not rocket science to jump a vehicle, I've done it numerous times before.

mk378

Charge the battery from an AC powered battery charger.

Turn the headlights on and watch while trying to start. If they dim way down or go out, the whole car is losing power from the battery. This could be the battery itself or a bad connection at the battery.

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

I have had the battery charged on a battery charger. When I attach the charger it shows a 25% charge, then isn't fully charged until the next day.

As far as the headlights, I have Denji projectors with HID's installed. I might have to watch the tail lights.

The almost start with my 4 wheeler and no start with my truck is still confusing me.

I'll update this later after work when I get the results. I swear this car knows that when it gets running its going up for sale.

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

Charged battery overnight, 12.92v
Connected load tester, shows battery is good.
Charged battery again, same voltage. Let it sit overnight: same voltage.

Installed in car: single click.
Rechecked voltage: 12.61v

As far as the headlights dimming, I watched the parking lights, brake lights, and instrument lights; they all dimmed the same.

Battery is 4 years old; still tested good. I'm going to try using my lawnmower battery.... It's also a g51

Edit: lawn mower battery didn't work. Still makes a click

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

Resolved

Ordered new 4ga ring terminals to make new grounds. Used a dremmel to really make sure everything was cleaned off. No change.

Saw my 4ga going from the battery to the starter and figured I might as well change that one too. Once changed, the car fired right up. Even though it showed proper resistance when checked, it was bad.

It's been idling great for about 10 min so far.