twiggz_travesty

so, i was re-wiring my LEDs in my headlights to be on with my running lamps, and everything has been working well until today, when i was plugging everything back in and testing them out. all of a sudden my key/open door chime started going off with my key in the start/on position, and my blinkers stopped working(my hazards work,my bulbs are all good, fuses are all good(literally every fuse in the car that i could find)) i read through similar threads, but i couldnt find anything about the issue in combination with the chime :/ i drive a 1995 civic dx 2dr with d15b7

Please help???



**** Updated info:
My gauge cluster doesnt work either (spedometer,fuel,temp,odometer,tripometer)

The fuses that i checked/ changed are in the picture attached at the bottom(outlined in pink and pointed at with marker cap) the inside fuse(turn signal fuse) seems to be fine, because i have working license plate lamps and dash lights

Could it maybe be the relay?

http://i48.tinypic.com/hwnacw.jpg

Former User

Turn signal fuse - check it.

twiggz_travesty

i checked that fuse and even changed the good one out in case it was faulty

Former User

Which specific fuse did you replace? Post a picture where it is in the fuse box. You need to voltage test the installed fuse to ensure that it doesn't just blow again after installation. Click the fuse testing link in my signature.

twiggz_travesty

i have a multi meter but i dont know how it works...and i replaced the hazard fuse under the hood and under the dash i replaced the blinker/dash fuse.. both 10A fuses.

I also found out that none of my gauges work(spedometer,fuel,temp,odometer,tripometer)


***how do you attach a photo?

i took a pic of the fuse maps pointing out the ones i changed

twiggz_travesty

so its the fuse that the marker cap is pointing at, and the one that is outlined in pink

Former User

This^ tells me that 10A dash fuse 15 is blown. It probably blows soon after you install it due to a short in the circuit.

twiggz_travesty

That's just it though. NONE of my fuses are blown. They are all in working order and that's why it's weird. That same fuse controls the plate lights on my trunk, and those lights are on as we'll as the lights in my dash which I believe are the same fuse.

NVturbo

Is your radio working? Double-check because one of the fuses is BLOWN.

twiggz_travesty

Radio works. But I noticed today that my intermittent wiper setting doesn't work(low, high, and spray all work)

Former User

Voltage test fuse 15.

twiggz_travesty

As soon as I get home, I will figure out my multimeter and do a volt test on 15. What should it show. I know that it takes a 10A fuse but not sure as to the voltage.

Former User

Both test tabs of the fuse (tested individually) should read voltage similar to the reading across the two battery posts.

twiggz_travesty

When I tested the batt terminals, I got a reading of 7V and each tab of the fuse gave me 6.8-6.9V when I tested it. Where should I look next?

jbpnoman

7v on the battery?

Former User

First, your battery is dead as a door nail. Charge or replace it.

Second, are you sure you tested 10A dash fuse 15 with the key in ON(II)?

twiggz_travesty

I bought a shitty analogue multimeter, and it came with no instructions. And I'm new at this. So I'm unsure as to how to truly read it. Or even which of the twenty some odd settings to use....

twiggz_travesty

my battery is brand new. like i said, my multi meter is ****/im unsure what setting to use/it doesnt even go up to 12v and i dont know why i wasted my money on it. and if you look at my diagram thats on the bottom of the fuse panel cover, youll see that it is not the same one that you are showing. i have also attached a picture of the fuse that i am checking and the fuse box it self

Former User

Your multimeter is fine. You'd save yourself some grief by reading the instructions that came with it.

I'll help you get started. Dial the center **** of your multimeter to the 50V scale within DC volts (white on left side of dial). Now touch the red meter probe to the + battery post and black meter probe to the - battery post. You should read about 12.5V if you battery is fully charged. When the meter is set to the 50V scale, read the middle line of black numbers below the DC volts scale line. If your battery voltage reading is as expected, you are now ready to voltage test fuse 15.

The diagram I posted is identical to your dash fuse box. In the picture, you are voltage testing 10A dash fuse 19. The next 10A fuse to the left of fuse 19 is fuse 15, which is the one you want to voltage test and is probably blown.

twiggz_travesty

heres a pic of the multimeter in action. still unsure if thst is right.


And thank you so much! I feel like a huge dumb ***... it was #15 (reverse light) fuse... im sorry for being such a novice. Now i know!

dazebreak

Looks like it is reading 41.5 VDC ?!

Is it at zero when the leads are not touching anything? Like Ron said, reading the black 0-50 scale, the needle should be at about 12.5 VDC with the read lead to + on the battery terminal, and the black to - .

You can test a new AA battery or similar, and your meter should read 1.5 VDC or so, but put it on the 10 VDC scale for that. Just to check if your meter is actually working correctly, that is.

Also, it is good practice to make sure your leads and meter are working correctly before each use. To do this put it on any resistance scale, like the 1 kilo-Ohm scale (it is the yellow RX1K on the meter, then touch the two leads together. The needle should jump all the way to the right indicating almost 0 resistance.

I do this so I know the meter is actually working before coming to the conclusion it was lack of voltage. I have seen the posts on the board inside of a meter get cold solder joints causing intermittent failure, so you never know.

Anyway, glad you found the bad fuse!

Former User

Good advice^