Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2

Here's your information overload:

***EDIT***

Here's an ideal parts list of what you'd ideally want from a salvage yard donor car in order to complete your swap:

Engine
Tranny
ECU/computer
Engine harness
All accessories (alternator, distributor, starter, etc.)
Mounts
Shift linkage
Axles
Intermediate shaft
Exhaust manifold
Catalytic convertor (you can use the stock one, but it's nice to have the newer one)
All sensors including 02 sensors
All hoses uncut including radiator hoses

Who sells such complete swaps?

1-800-962-8922 - Import Auto Salvage. Ask for Larry Jr. or Randy, and tell them Tom from GA sent you.

Having said that, let's get to some tech.

First of all YES the B18C1 will bolt right in with no need for custom mounts. All you need to do is follow this picture:



Wiring info? That's easy too if you search.

You'll need to wire up the knock sensor and the yellow pins shown in this picture for the GS-R secondary butterfly controls:



Also you need to KEEP the stock OBD2 Integra engine harness. IT WILL PLUG DIRECTLY UP TO YOUR CIVIC'S UNDERHOOD CHASSIS HARNESS PLUGS AT THE SHOCK TOWERS!!!

Need proof?









If you keep the 2000-2001 GS-R engine harness you get to keep the newer distributor and injectors, and alternator.

So if you get the entire engine swap from the Integra GS-R, you should have very little problems getting the swap into your car as long as you follow my instructions.

Need more help?

Try this:

Okay, I’m sure this has been covered before, but I would like to have a fresh topic for this. In a recent IM with a friend here who bought a GS-R swap for his 1992 hatchback, we talked about him doing his own swap. Like him I’m sure that most of us were intimidated by our first swap, but I hope this thread can help cure any anxieties that people might have about doing their own swap.

I’ll try my best, but I could forget a thing or two here, so don’t take this as a end-all swap guide.

Here’s how I see it:

You’re going to pay a shop to do the swap. This could be anywhere from $500-$1,200 in labor. I work at a shop and there are some people that NEED to pay us to do the work, but if you have confidence and some common sense I promise you can do it.

Rather than pay for labor, you could use some of that cash to but a really nice toolset and a nice hydro jack too. Rent an engine hoist and possibly airtools and compressor and you're done a LOT cheaper than paying a shop - you KEEP the handtools and jack too!

I recommend any toolset like Craftsmen or Husky, whatever. Get the really nice “Mechanics’ Toolset” even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Remember, you KEEP these tools forever and they will help you countless times. I got a 250 pc. Craftsman set with a toolbox for lie $250.00 I think. Also remember METRIC<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emwink.gif" BORDER="0">

Get a hydro jack too - $100 sounds about right?

There are other tools that you will need too in order to swap successfully. I’ll TRY my best to list them - I’m sure you guys can add some more.

32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
Dykes (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys )
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring

And fluids too:

However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes 2.3)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable

So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:

1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room.

Disconnect all that would keep the engine from coming out:

2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then you’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where you’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!

6. Pull the axles out - how you ask?

32mm socket
19mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench or additional socket
1/2'' driver for big sockets
3/8'' driver for drain plug/sockets
hammer
dykes
prybar
*big-*** breaker/cheater bar for the 1/2'' driver to break the axle nut loose and tighten it back down*

*Optional*

Depending on tranny you might have to drain and fill the tranny. I make this a common practice every time I swap an axle and I recommend that you do too. In my tutorial I will detail how to drain and fill the tranny. If doing so add these things:

3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF (you won't use all 3 - B-Series takes like 2.5 qts.)
Long funnel
crush washer for drian plug (get it from Honda - same one as your engine oil drain plug)
10mm socket with LONG extention
driver for 10mm socket/extension

Here we see the various tools laid out. Missing from the pic is the big-*** breaker car for you at home that will need it for the 32mm axle nut. Also missing are the funnel and 10mm socket.extention/driver combo for the drain/fill procedure. I has air tools available so I used them.



Close-up of cotter pin (you'll only need one) and drain plug washer



Drivers and 17mm end wrench:



32mm, 19mm, and 17mm sockets:



And if you're lucky and have tools a 1/2'' impact will be very helpful:



Okay so let's get started.

1. Take the 19mm socket and break your wheel lugs loose. they will be hard as hell to break loose if you've already got the car in the air.

*For those without an impact*

It has been brought to my attention that if you are using a 32mm socket with a 1/2'' driver and a big-*** breaker bat you might want to break the 32mm axle end nut loose while the car is still on the ground. Hopefully you can access the nut with the wheel still on, because if not you'll have to get someone to sit in the car and hold the brakes on with the engine on in hopes that the wheel won't turn while you try to break the 32mm nut loose.



2. Jack up the car and secure it on a STABLE set of jackstands. I used a lift so sorry, no pics.

3. Locate the drain plug and use a 3/8'' driver with no socket and remive the drain plug:



Replace the drain plug washer and tighten the drain plug back after draining is complete. I didn't do this until later on because I waited to drain the tranny until right before prying out the axle, but I recommend doing this first at home and then tightening the plug back until you feel/hear the washer crush. This insures no leakage during work and also so that you remember to drain and tighthen the plug up before you start the real work.



4. Remove the wheel and look for the 32mm axle end nut. Yeah the pic sucks.



5. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm socket. At home you will need a breaker bar or cheater bar to get much-needed leverage to break this bastatrd loose. I used an impact.



6. Now find the cotter pin lovated on the 17mm castle nut below the lower balljoint and remove it by unfolding it with your dykes:



7. Now take the 17mm socket and remove the 17mm castle nut from the lower balljoint. Yes this pic sucks too.



8. Now take your hammer and beat on the lower control arm where the hammer head is in this pic. This will break the balljoint loose. The pics get better sometime.



9. Now locate the through bolt that holds the lower strut "fork" to the lower control arm:



10. Using a 17mm socket on one side and either a 17mm wrench or another socket to hold the other side, remove the through bolt .

11. Now take your hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the end of the axle to get it free from the spindle:



12. Now pull the lower strut fork to the side and it should all look like this:



13. Now you're ready to pry the axle out. Take the prybar and position like so in the pic and pry. You might want to secure the spindle out of the way so it doesn't hold the axle in:



14. Compare your new axle to the one you pulled out and make sure the new axle is correct. The old axle might not "look" bad, but in this case here the shaft is actually broken in half inside the outer boot.



15. Now you're ready to put the new one in. Simply reverse the removal procedure. First get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in. Make SURE that the inner joint is all the way in and butted up against the tranny casing fully.



16. Here's where steps can be swapped around, but I did mine in this order. Put the lower balljoint back into the lower control arm and slide the outer splines back into the spindle - finger tighten the 32mm axle nut on so the axle doesn't pop back out while you do other work.





17. Now you're ready to line up the lower strut fork with the lower control arm to put the through bolt in. It helps to tighten the lower balljoint 17mm castlenut first. Replace the cotter pin too! VERY IMPORTANT!!! Remember to tighten the 17mm castlenut in a manner so that you can slide the new cotter pin in.



18. Push up on the lower control arm and slide the through bolt in plave and put the 17mm nut on the end:



19. Using two 17mm sockets or whatever combo you choose, tighten the through bolt:



20. Now tighten the 32mm axle end nut. If you have no air tools then use the breaker bar and tighten it up pretty snug. STAKE THE NUT DOWN! Use the hammer and something flat to make an indention in the nut like pictured:



So the new axle is in. Time to fill the tranny. There's a few schools of thought on how to fill the tranny, but this methid here is by far the least messy and to me the easiest.

*Optional* Find the fill plug. It is seen here right next to the inner joint of the axle. It has a crush washer so if you loose it your'e screwed. Honda doesn't usually sotck this one. I chose not to loosen my fill plug because I know my tranny takse 2.5 qts., but the way you fill it is to fill until fluid dribbles from the fill hole so this is optional if it makes you feel better.



Here's where the trick comes in that will save you headahces. Usually you have to ghetto-rig a funnel and tube to fill the tranny in the fill hole which really sucks. My method is really easy.

1. Remove the vent cap found near the front/top of your tranny:



2. Find the Speed sensor located on the topside of the very back of your tranny:



3. Take the 10mm on a big-*** extension and remove the bolt (it's the orangish one in my pic - yours probably won't be oragnish):





4. Now see that big-*** hole left after you move the speed sensor out of the way? Use the funnel and fill through that hole! By the way, no need to unplug the speed sensor - just move it out of the way.





5. Fill up with specified amount or until fluid dribbles from the fill hole below.



6. Put the speed sensor back in, tighten up the fill plug (if you loosened it).

7. Replace the vent cap and you're done!



7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - there’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well. This is a balanced way to hoist it up. Others may have other options too.
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer
So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out, and on the 1992-1995 Civics use the CIVIC mounts except for the timing cover drivers’ mount. I suggest Energy inserts for the other mounts.

Wiring has been covered already.

This is really a rough guide - it just shows you how easy the swap really is though, and others feel free to add advice/info too please!


<FONT SIZE="3">Here's my brake upgrade info:</FONT>

Okay, for 1992-1995 Civics let me say this:
1992-1993 Civics ALL have smaller rotors thatn the Integra - even the Si hatch and EX coupes in 1993.

1994-1995 EX and 1994 Si ABS have same size rotors, but like DragII said the calipers seem to be smaller on the Civics and they also carry different part numbers. I have proof of this with scans of part numbers from parts catalogs.

With that said, here is what MOST people do to upgrade their brakes to Integra specs - all of the following are not ABSOLUTES, but they make it much easier:

Get the entire front spindles from any 1994-2001 Integra. This should include the spindles, calipers, hangers, rotors, lines, and dust shields.

Simply unbolt the upper and lower balljoints, and the ball joint that connects to the outer tie rod ends, disconnect the lines and swap the spindles. Would be a good idea to have badly rusted rotors turned or replaced, and throw in new brake pads too if possible.

For the rears, try to get the entire rear trailing arms assemblies with the parking brake cables too. Then just swap the entire traling arms and you're pretty much done.

Now, for the optional **** that WILL make a difference in braking and mostly pedal feel:

1994-2001 GS-R, LS, RS, any Integra brake booster. This bolts into any 1992-1995 with ease. BOLTS right in.

***IMPORTANT***

You MUST have an Integra booster in order to run an Integra master cylinder! Although the lines fit perfectly on the Intgegra RS mastercylinder, no Integra master cylinder will bolt up to the CIVIC brake booster. Get the Integra booster and you will have to run an Integra master cylinder too.

Integra RS master cylinder. The base model RS Integra had NO ABS so the lines match up PERFECT with any non-abs Civic - which most of you have. I have done this in my own car and it truly bolts in.

The Integra master cylinder is a 15/16th whgile the Civic non-abs uses a smaller 13/16th master cylinder.

Finally, add the GS-R, LS, RS, etc. proportion valve and you will have completed the package. 1992-1993 Civics will require you to change JUST the bracket over - use the Teg prop valve with the Civic bracket. 1994-1995 Civics can use the Integra bracket.

1-800-962-8922 is the number to Import Auto Salvage. They sell the most complete brake swaps I've see yet. Call and ask for Larry Jr. or Randy Joeb - tell them TOM from Georgia sent you.

A few brake upgrade pics...

Integra-spec fronts:



Rear discs:



Another alternate for the Integra booster and master cylinder is this:

***EDIT***
*I'm sure I'm not the first guy to discover this mod, and I'm not trying to sound as though I came up with the idea. Another H-T member told me that they've heard of this mod, so I just took it further and actually ordered one at my shop and put it on a customer's 1993 CX to test it - it works.*

Well for all of you guys running 4-wheel discs and/or bigger front discs that need a bigger-than-stock 13/16ths M/C, there is a true bolt-in replacement for sure.

I heard a rumor that a certain 15/16ths m/c just bolted up, and it's true. I ordered one the other day and my shop put on ein a 1993 Cx hatch. It's a:

1991 Honda Civic EX 4-door master cylinder.

The part number from Honda is 46100-SH4-A11. They probably won't stock it, but it only took me one full day to get the one I ordered.

This m/c bolted right up to the stock Civic booster, so no more trying to find an Integra booster and m/c combo!

The only thing is that I cannot say which stops better - my Integra RS booster and m/c combo, or the 1991 EX with stock Civic booster because the CX we did the EX m/c on still had stock brakes to be upgraded with all Integra discs later.

The 1991 EX m/c is the same 15/16ths like my Integra Rs, but the ears are located the same as the stock Civic so there's no need for the Integra booster. the Integra booster is larger volume, but I've yet to determine if the Teg booster makes much difference over stock until,this CX guy gets his 4-wheel discs and 40/40 prop valve.

So if you want an easy m/c upgrade with no booster worries, try this one.