CX-Adam

shiny.

It'll be interesting to see the final weight when you're done. How many project cars have you had? Definitely doesn't seem like the first time for you.

B_Swapped93

I'm hoping for 1,900 lbs. That maybe too optimistic but I'll be pickup up some sawzall blades tonight to chop some more. This is #4, First was a white integra I built in my late teens (2013), next came a silver integra: show-car x track car hybrid it never ended well, then the bagged TSX and now this. The 2 integras have a build thread on here, the first one was more of a trial and error.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...hread-3193293/ white one


https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...build-3222619/ Silver one

tony_2018

I hate those builds

B_Swapped93

Those other 2 ports will be used once I plumb the WG and BOV the 3rd is for my brake booster, which I have no intention of deleting.



Ktuned HALL effect TPS, seeing as i'm using 94A mounts this is the only option that made sense. As for the MAP it's a 4-bar they're all the same price and it's the one that was lying around.


No IACV here, set my idle with the screw, may need some adjusting but with ID2000s it's not going to idle too well anyway. That center hole just loops into the bore of the tb, before the butterfly.


Ktuned -16 filler neck, kinda left my self no choice when I did the electric water pump. Reused my OEM coolant temp sensor, will be wiring it in tomorrow.



Plain, rad cap from the auto rad, unless it's absolutely needed i'm not wasting money on show parts.



1st round of polishing, I'll probably do 2 more at about 45 mins per go. Still torn as to get the race spec cables it's a lot for something at seems just to advertise as "won't stretch" but i'll keep digging.



OEM Honda heater block off, Ktuned makes one too for a bit more, it's basically an oil drain with a big Allen key hole.


Chopped off the lower rad support, compromised it's strength when I modified it for the tucked rad rad didn't even end up sitting on it so I figured why not.

B_Swapped93

Got pretty well everything i wanted done, had 2 financial set backs, i'll NEED the race-spec cables there's not way I could make the OEM ones work. Ohh well, I looked into them more, rthey look pretty damn good, no more stupid clips just screw ends.




Needed some new plug-well seats, the ones that came with the VC were rotten, don't mind the caked up grunge.



Routed all the wiring from the left over the steering column and put the "under-dash fuse box" up on the bulkhead, and freed up some space down low. Wiring has always been a VERY waek point for me, but this build ha tested me and I've gained so much knowledge. I may(may) end up running a Racepak digital dash, that'll be a real test but we'll see.




Wasn't able to get a used CMC from the junkyard, so I had to pick up an OEM Honda one. Ktuned clutch-line, was very fast and easy to bleed the system, may need more but I need my cables before I can test that.


Ktuned IAT adapter, perfect for set ups that didn't come with a IAT hole or FI set ups where a rubber grommet won't hold. That aluminium part gets welded on to the charge piping, or intake arm if you'd like but they recommend just drilling the hole to match the thread.



Only thing I didn't like is that I had to cut down the retaining fins(rubber grommet) on the sensor for it to fit, still recommend this part. Only reason i'm complaining is I bought that sensor new from Honda Friday.


I'm interested to see how these feel, there's a big difference when you press up and down on the springs themselves. Be carful when pulling the mechanism, I had it spring apart several times and the selector arm get stuck on the reverse lock out, meaning I had to rip it all apart again.



Old beat up 3'' intake, won't be on too long, but here's how the senor adapter looks.


And here's how she looks to date, everything is hooked up and yes I used the OEM harness, wasn't going for a tucked look, but it just kinda happened.


A few steps back, will look pretty mean once I get the Sheepey vertical flow intercooler. May 5th my hood exit pipes are supposed to be here. And my fuel set up and 60mm tial gate should be here next Friday.

ontariorider

Nice build!! cool to see as Im just over in Kitchener, Ontario. Who will be tuning the car once its ready

B_Swapped93

Thanks man! I'm not sure yet tbh, I'll be asking a few friends with similar set ups. There's word that a guy from CLM motorsports comes up here and tunes cars occasionally, not sure that's my crowd but they build/tune some insane street cars.

tony_2018

Some nice parts there buddy.

ontariorider

i got tuned by joe at altech last year and I wasn't super happy..might be worth making the trek across the border to Evans tuning a few friends have been there and really happy.

grumpys93

I love the detail posts you are doing in this thread. Keep up the great work and looking forward to this thing running.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Now this is one hell of a build thread. I really like the fact that you are actually doing this all yourself, been seeing too many "build threads" where they are building the car at a "friend's shop" via credit card and no actually wrenching is taking place...

B_Swapped93

Thanks dude.

Not a fan of that place, mainly cause of some of the kids that "rep them" always starting **** online/mouthing off. I've heavily considered that, there's some nasty street cars here that have been tuned by guys who don't "hold back" I'm not going for reliability, just sheer power.


Thanks man, I appreciate hearing that.

Thanks man! Yah, I see that all too often on IG also, half the guys with a big following couldn't do a clutch job if you paid them. All me here, friends aren't into this kinda stuff, it's been a good learning experience.

B_Swapped93

Mini pre-weekend update, had to chop the bumper to get just the tucked rad to fit, I went a little overboard. But keep in mind I've still got a 800hp Sheepey vertical flow to fit over the rad, so maybe it'll work. Got most of the 8AWG fuel pump upgrade done too., just gotta wait till Friday evening before my other stuff comes in.



No manifold/pipes yet, but I put the turbo in the bay just for fun. I can't tell you how excited I am to get my Sheepey order next week. Yes, the bumper looks like trash but i'll probably put some sheet aluminum over the gaps once the IC is mounted.




The turbo it's self: Precision 6266 T3 .82 A/R 3'' vband and sadly is a journal bearing. Why'd I pick a JB? way I see it this engine may eat **** early on at the power levels i'm gunning for, if that happens i'd rather lose a JB turbo than an expensive DBB.



Nothing fancy here, went to Fast-forward here in midland and got a generic relay and some spade terminals and 12dft of 8AWG. They've been my go-to guys for wiring and misc, even went to them when I was into 2 12'' subs in the trunk back in my teens.



Mounted it on the back seat mount, the big wire will run down into the fuel tank it's self to the pump, still need to ground the relay.


Yes, my first choice was a big stinger relay, couldn't find any, so that meant to mak 8ga work on that relay. would required some spade modification. They held tight, would have rather that threaded post style but gotta make do with what's around.




Just waiting on the pump and fittings before I can finish up and put the tank back.

jdblock

Daaaammmnnnnnn!

Think I want to see it run more than you.

ssmrico

good progress

B_Swapped93

Thanks guys!. I'm just looking forward to my pipes more than anything tbh haha.



Engine may need to come out sadly, there's a high possibility that the cylinders are filled with water and BPC, I don't have compressed air to blast them out. And taking the head off with the engine in the car is near impossible on a K swap(for me). I'd take me less time to pull the engine and put it on it's side to drain the cylinders than it would to remove the head with the engine in the car. Frustrating, yes but I wasn't careful in blocking the ports when I washed it to get all that aluminum dust off. We'll see, i'll be getting the VAC line for the FPR and finding a place to "T" it, as this is a FI set up vs N/A.

e30bimmer89

DAMN! Nice build man! I wanted to K swap my EG hatch, but decided on a blue top H23. I can't wait to see this thing on the road and killing dreams.

B_Swapped93

Thanks man, yah I look forward to runs once it's all tuned/set.








Picked up 2 more 15/16 to 1/8 hose barb fittings, one for the waste-gate, and the other for the BOV. Just going to cap them till needed, manifold came off as there's no way you'd be able to get them on/tight with it on. Even with the electric water pump it's very tight under there.




Generic step up plastic fitting this is for the FPR to "T" off the brake booster line the fpr nipple is 5/32 hose.




Cut off style "T", really wanted brass, but the only brass ones were in packs of 3 and assorted, if need be, i will get them. Using an Aeromotive FPR, came with the swap so for all I know it may not work, the pressure gauge was cracked/leaked. If it's a dud, i'll run the Ktuned one. The biggest downside to this manifold is the sheer lack of ports...for anything in general I still love it.


Closing: Still don't know if the engine has water in cyls, I'll be taking a trip to JDM addiction tomorrow and seeing what came in, if I work Saturday i'll have zero time to mess with the car Friday night. On the list is plumb the FPR do a complete re-polish on the manifold as it got scuffed up to the point where i'm not happy, and will continue polishing the ktuned shifter.

B_Swapped93

Got a good start to my fuel system, also picked up the race-spec cables as the socks wouldn't work the k-tuned shifter for some reason. I think they had parts broken as there was not way it could feasibly work. That being said, the race-spec cables are beautiful work today but i'll have a good go at things this evening and see what I can get done. Cooling system lines are in there too, would be great to get the rad set up all done.

DumpdEJ6

What about a wet/dry vacuum with a straw attached to the end? I've used that to get coolant and assorted debris out of the water jacket after the head is off, I would imagine that you could stick it down the spark plug holes and suck 99% of the water out.

B_Swapped93

Didn't think about that, certainly worth a shot, just use tape to bridge the gap from the nozzle to hose. Still have to investigate, working today but will start investigating tonight,


Thanks man!

Custard

Couldn't you just pull the plugs and crank the engine over to clear the water out?

B_Swapped93

I was going to try those suggestions when I realized one major thing.... the "lean" that the K-series has, unlike the B, it has a heavy lean to the back. I took all the plugs out and lit up cyls with a good light. If there was water it would all be at the back, it would be too hard to bend the straw not even being able to see it. I think the valves are way too high to have the engine crank water out especially with the natural lean these engines have. Thanks for the suggestion, i'm going to leave the engine in the car and use some starter fluid on the first few cranks when the time comes. Colant system is all set to go now, secured a vacuum for the FPR of the BB line things should be goof there, fuel system is missing key components before I can even measure the line length, so I sent out a list to JDM-Addiction and i'm hoping that stuff will be there soon.




Brought my shifter back out, still needs some polish but i'll do that later along with the mounts and intake manifold all need a re-do, I thought the race-spec cables were a gimmick and while they are pricy, the stock ones just wouldn't work with how far I had mine back. The spherical bearings on each end is adjust able, i'd say up to one inch in/out from the stock position. The best part is the fact you don't need those expensive POS clips from the OEM style, that alone was worth it to me.





They include the billet trans mount as part of the cables, guess that's cool. Kinda looks trashy on my ugly trans. If the engine does have to come out, I'm going to clean it and paint it aluminum like I did on my teg builds. Overall, if you're going to buy the race shifter, id heavily recommend these, I take back my bashing of them.




Just wanted to show HOW they eliminated the need for those horrid clips, yes they can still be used but I wouldn't I broke the ones I had with the stock-box. Just un-thread and side it in then tighten it and use a 19mm wrench and tighten it up.



Plumbed up the electric water pump, -12 AN from the plate to the pump then step up to -16 to the rad, top is -16AN all the way, I used three 45*s and a straight. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, still have the dual SPAL fans, if I run into overheating issues i'll bolt them up and wire them direct with individual switches. Keep in mind I still have to have massive 3.5'' charge piping going through those hoses, so it isn't as direct as I could have made it.



Vac 1:1 sourced from my brake booster line, had I kept this N/A I could have just left it, but the supplies weren't too costly just hard to find.



Thought the return on the FPR was 3/8th npt, it's -6AN, so I ordered a step up fitting so it can go back to -8 as I bought 30ft of that stuff.



Cut them down to 3/8th on all 3 ports, not sure what size the line going to the FPR is the little one is 5/32ndth the next up I don't know, my booster line is 5/16.


Closer: at this point the only thing stopping me is a few fittings, made a list when I was there but I knew it wasn't all of them. Missing about 7-8 none are rally special or fancy, but i'm looking forward to getting the fuel system all done and seeing if it will crank or even fire up.

Northernlightz

Nice

​​​​​​Did you purchase the car from the coast in BC? Body looks to be in good condition for its age.

B_Swapped93

Thanks. Me personally no, the guy I got it from brought it over a year ago, little bit of rust on the rear bumper tabs but for $600 CAD, I couldn't complain I've been selling off the stock parts that I was able to salvage too.





Wasn't much to do today, added the relay ground for the pump and put a 2nd ground on the engine off the timing chain case. The biggest thing was sanding down the manifold again and re-polishing as it had gotten some scuffs on it from being on/off so man times. That plus I felt I could do better on the sanding with the 2000G, if I do it over again, I'll get some 3000G.




Kinda like the old look, by that I mean the non-polished version like when you get it new. Had it not started pouring rain i'd have gotten some outside pics.


One ground off the case, had I bought an aftermarket ground wire I could have tucked it better, but I just used the one from the trans of the D.


One of my favorite things about the car is all the exposed wires and parts, like the K-pro and lack of a dash, makes this project so much easier.





Pretty happy with the finish I got this time around, lighting isn't ideal but you can see the clear mirror finish, I used Autogylm metal polish for all the stuff on this car.



I'll be sure to push it outside first chance and get some better shots, cant wait till I can plumb the whole fuel system, all those AN lines are looking pretty sick.