B_Swapped93

Hey guys, I'd like to say I've been a diehard DC(integra) guy since my first car, a white GSR. That first car was a pain, just about everything on it broke but it taught me SO much and I loved it, 2nd build was a turbo ITR swapped DC4, it never really got finished. These builds are in the integra section as my post count probably suggests. From there I moved onto a bagged TSX and had my fun with a "show-car" and dabbled in lifted trucks. But it's time to do my FINAL Honda build, the "EGK-T" as the name suggests this is a turbo kswapped eg, granted not just any eg. The base of this project started as an automatic 94 sedan, but i'm doing my own twist on it. With all that out of the way, i'll start with some pictures. Pictures are all in real time, this build started April 1st 2017


Here's the car, the 94 eg8 141,132 kilometers originally from British Columbia I got it for 600 CAD. some bubbling on the quarters but around here in the rust belt you can pay 5K for an integra and it will have some rust.



Yup, auto-tragic with a 102 hp d15b7 engine, honestly it was kinda fun to drive on the way home, from just around Casino Rama here in northern Ontario.


Next day, found a steal of a deal on a turn-key k20a2 swap from a wrecked Integra in Brampton(close to Toronto). Guy gave me a hand pulling it out in the -15C weather, wasn't very fun.



Getting it in with 2ppl wasn't hard, getting it out safely without smashing my TSX was another story.


Same day, went to JDM-addiction here in Toronto and got the moroso oil-pan and the Ktuned AC/PS delete and 92lb supertech springs and retainers...not pictured.


The pulley had clearly never been taken off, I do have a 3/4 drive 4ft bar but I lack a 19mm, the big sockets are expensive and I can usually get away with my nice 1/2 bar.



Beyond frustrating dealing with a timing chain vs a belt, I ended up braking the tensioner lock tooth, took me a day to figure it out. So I bought a new one from Honda, timing chain is still the original one.



My work week is beyond hectic, so all part runs are made Friday evenings, which makes for a good vibe driving down to get my stuff.

I got lucky, and got an early model k20a2 that came with DVS on both the IN/EX, meaning it had flat seats and not the beehive style of the later K's/k24s.


The water pump had to come off to get the RSX-S intake manifold off, i'm sure some have had luck getting the mani off without needed to strip the engine down this far, but I wasn't so lucky. Old oil pa off, waiting for the moroso pan, I just used genuine Honda-bond to seal it as per instruction.





All the above installed, did the tensioner just to be safe(OEM Honda) , One thing I will say with the oil pan. 1: OEM dispstick? get ready to cut your dipstick due to the baffles, 2: you'll need considerably shorter bolts as the mount flange of the pan is a fraction of the stock pan's thickness.


Now, the goodies start. All parts from JDM-addiction, can't thank Melo enough for getting me my stuff on short notice and for insane prices, if your're in the GTA hit them up! Ktuned 90mm intake manifold + EGK2 94A durometer mounts. Not pictured Ktuned 90mm throttle body.


If you're planning on running the big ktuned ITM, get ready to obliterate your water pump, the ktuned AC/PS delete is mandatory.



Back at JDM-addiction for another big item, my CC twin disk clutch, I guess this gives away my power goals.


Don't know how many ppl are familiar with twin disks but here's mine apart for cleaning as directed from CC.



The moroso pan makes balancing the engine rather hard, seeing as I've done everything you see here on my own, torqueing this by myself was a challenge. Clicker style wrench used, I don't have the money to drop $500 for a nice digital snap on.



They make it clear they want you to use RED lock-tite, so I did but i'm a bit worried about getting it off should something fail, those allen bolts that hold the pressure plate have the same spec as the stock PP if any body was wondering.



All ready to go in, nothing done to the trans un opened un touched it's the RSX 6spd. Figure i'll sheer the teeth off one of the geara at some point, so it's not worth doing carbon-synchros etc, I may put the speed factory shifter selector springs in later on depending on how I like the feel.




Got the Ktuned electric water pump kit while I was there too, kit number KWP-TK-304 this is as plug and play as it gets, yes this nulls the AC/PS delete i'll probably just give it to a friend.


Alright, enough parts buying, time to get this in the car. Forgot how much stuff has to come out to put the K in.




I didn't get enough pics of the actual removal of any of the brackets and such, but let's just say the bay got stripped absolutely bare, only the essentials got left and I'll be tucking the wires later on.


Stock lines won't be sufficient, or even work with the exhaust set up I've got panned for this car. Mainly the filter will be in the way, that plus they were kinda icky.


Trunk came off for some angle grinder surgery, keeping the stock tank. Kinda debating sumping it and running dual bosh o44s but that brings another host of issues. If not i'll just modify the stock hanger and use -8 feed/returns with bulkhead fittings and a walbro 450. Weather I stay with pump 91/93/94 is still debated. E85(VP-C85) would be my choice but well see.



I should have said this sooner, this is not a show-car build, you've seen those IAMTAIBOOGIE/1320 video vids? yah, that's what this car is for, a highway runner. Mounts in, almost ready to drop the k20 in.


Made myself a vice platform, I've done -AN fittings in the past and absolutely hated it. No AN wrenches but i'm not bothered by marred fittings,so long as they hold and do their job

Painted the VC, $10 rattle can job but i'm happy with it, not with it's own post tho. Here's the ELC water pump set up they(ktuned) forgot my alt belt of all things and a 90* AN fitting, so i'm on hold till that comes in.


Yahhh so, this manifold is far from bolt and play... tucked rad time. I'm aware ktuned makes a pass-side side port rad, but with my ELC pump the tucked rad is simpler.


I'm beyond happy with this big manifold, but it's missing something... the only showcar-esc thing you'll see from me, polishing time. 320/500/800/1500/2000 total time 2 hrs.


2.4 hrs spent doing the actual polish, lots by hand, then some by drill-buffer.



Top view, again not even trying to make it look "clean" doing what makes me happy if it looks good that's a plus, this is pure function over form.

tony_2018

Txdragon

Very nice!

CX-Adam

Is this the project you've been asking questions about? Good luck!

B_Swapped93

:daps:

Thanks

Yes, though at the time this build was "all in my head", the swap I had my eyes on for a week or so. The car was spur of the moment and kicked things off, Before I pulled the trigger on an automatic I wanted to know some things were set in stone. Thanks man.

tony_2018

I usually do the same, collect my info and ask questions where ever something questions it.

B_Swapped93

Gutted the hood today, in preparation for what I just ordered from Sheepey built. You'll notice I cut the hood prop holes, aside from it being like construction paper(think back to elementary school) it would have just caved in on it's self. But I have a solution, KTuned's NEW quick release hood hinges, look them up if you're not sure what i'm talking about, these are game changing!



Went all out, and ripped the entire interior out. Pulled every harness back through the firewall so I can properly connect ktuned conversion harness, an absolute MUST when doing a kswap. No I won't be running a dash, I want to be able to see everything and be able to fix any potential problem at the snap of a finger, rather than having the heavy dash/hvac.



Now, I have to give a special thank you and shout out to 94EG8, one of the H-T moderators and fellow Canadian. Came in clutch and hooked me up with all 3 pedals, I know some ppl say you just need the clutch, but my ktuned throttle cable didn't work with the auto gas.


Wasn't happening, originally I was just going to cut the brake and order a clutch assy from Honda, but after seeing this I knew I needed the full 3 set.




Scraped out all the sound deadening and began routing things in their new location, on all my past cars I've always put the fuse box here quick and easy to access.



That zip-tie you see on the k-pro unit is a back up seeing as I don't know how bad those 94a mounts will actually vibrate, the ECU case doesn't have a full loop, but rather a half so I used 2 10mm nuts and braced it to the firewall. I still need to test if the usb-acc cable will clear the ridge, as i'll need to use kpro to set some of the sensors i'll be using.



I know, kinda disappointing to see this ugly thing, I probably will switch it out for the ktuned billet race-spec shifter later on. But before the turbo set up is installed I'll be dialing things in with it in N/A form.



It's a sedan remember, i'll be running lexan in the back and keeping the front 2 open, it'll be a sauna in here with the dash and heat shielding(foam) out. No cage, think what you will but i'm only putting myself in danger, i'd be more scared of the kids running on cut springs.

tony_2018

Putting yourself in danger means less post on HT, do you want that? Choose your answer wisely because I can make it happen.

TomCat39

Why do you have to be threatening. That's counter productive to say the least.

Whom is endangered is subjective and opinionated.

As far as I know, there is no laws requiring cages for X amount of power. Therefor, that choice, whether good or bad, is purely up to the individual.

Threatening another member for expressing an opinion contrary to yours or even the majority is far from correct in my opinion. I would even go so far as to say it's non-condoned behavior in my mind.

B_Swapped93

I'm 99% sure he's just joking around, but thanks tomcat. The rules regarding a cage come into play at a drag strip, the rule to my knowledge is 10.99 sec or faster and you've gotta have a cage. How strict that is, is questionable. I've got a few friends with "street cars" into the low 10sec range and are still being allowed to run cage free, cut doors or not that rule is flat. I have no intentions to street drive this, save to get it to it's tuning day and for the intercooler piping to be made.

TomCat39

Damn sarcasm doesn't come through text very well.

And track regulation/rules isn't the same as laws to be on the road. But since your goal isn't necessarily a street legal car, then you are bound by different rules.

I didn't get that from your original starting post.

Now I look like the ***.

That's okay though, that's what I'm supposed to do from time to time. Be the dick to keep some sort of relative peace.

Sorry Tony, I didn't catch your sarcasm as usual. My uber dry sensor is still faulty.

tony_2018

hehehe, you can find other posts in other sections where I've done this.

TomCat39

Sorry, no matter how much you may want me to, I will not go stalking you around the forums.

B_Swapped93

Been EXTREMLY busy parting out my bagged TSX, couldn't get what I wanted as a whole so she's being put back to stock, this doesn't mean a surge in EG funding sadly I've got other plans for that, Gutted the trunk and did some more weight reduction, getting her ready to roll again.





Much like the hood, I chopped all the webbing out and removed the plate bezel and light. Had to put an extra bolt in the truck latch base as things were pretty questionable as to weather or not it would hold, that OEM battery won't be staying. I haven't decided what battery I want to run, aiming for something under 10lbs I won't need too many CCAs to start this car.



I ordered this last Tuesday, haven't really posted since then either I couldn't blow it up enough but here's the specs. T3 k series sidewinder 60mm tial gate, 2.5" & 3" hood exit pipes, the ETA is may 5th, and don't worry i'll have tons of pics. I'm hoping to pick up the Tial v60 this coming weekend. Don't know if I can swing the turbo too before may 5th but I may use some of the TSX funds, i'd love nothing more than to see that whole set up bolted on.




Staying with the stock 9.4'' rotor set up, stock studs stock 32mm shaft spline and stock pads, i'm sure some have their opinion about the stock set up, but honestly it could lock up the wheels with the car at full weight, so i'm not too worried. Fade won't be a thing for me, i'm trying to keep this car as stock as possible and test the limits of the stock components.




You guessed it, stock driveshafts i'm using the EP3 drivers side shaft and a RSX base passenger one, don't know if there's anything special about that. That's just what came with the swap, if they get destroyed i'll step up to the Karcepts 36mm hubs and Insane Shaft 500whp shafts. Yes, I just threw that dinky swap header on, but I think i'll get the turbo stuff bolted on before I try starting it.

tony_2018

Curious to see how low it is, oil pan that is. Nice progress.

B_Swapped93

Thanks, yah that's something I'm a bit concerned about this isn't a stance car but I wouldn't trust it too much on the stock-height suspension. I'll have it out of the garage sooner or later and then I can see, I'm debating what coils to run. The Ktuned "K1 streets" are very popular but I don't like the rates(10/6k) that's soft, the Ktuned K2-circuit has F20K R16K(+/- 2K) or custom rates available. So we'll see the tires/rims I end up with, as that will dictate that too.

tony_2018

probably will have to let it settle in before really passing judgement. Lesson learn on the db7 I replaced bushings on, thought it was going to sit higher, apparently not.

B_Swapped93

Took some time today and relax and do some of the little stuff that needed addressing, side skirts are back, re-did ALL the oil pan bolts with blue loc-tite and prepped my fuel pump hanger for the -AN line fuel set up.


Here's all I used to set up my ELC water pump, ATO 20A fuse, 20A on/off switch, HD ATO fuse holder and some ring terminals (18-22G) not pictured is a roll if 16G wire, i'd recommend 14-14 tho. If I have any issues i'll step it up later on.


Looped the ALT/STR along with the pump power wires over the plate and tucked inbetwwn the mount and engine, I used 16G for the power the which should be ok the wires prvided are maybe 14G at most.


The electrical portion of the auto-to-manual was much easier than I thought. in my case all I needed to do was cut and join the 2 biggest wires on the main auto plug. CC recommends to not use the clutch safety when using the twindisk, I wasn't planning on hooking that up anyway.



Nothing too special, 2ft from the battery I put the inline fuse, regular 20A ATO fuse.


While yes you could just wrap and twist the wire, I felt much better using these ring terminals.



Just didn't feel safe with the 94A mounts and that heavy oil pan, unlike most things on the engine it's vertical with gravity affecting it more and it's 2.2QTs greater than stock. I thought about using RED as I have a big bottle of it, but I think this will be ok.



Makes me sleep better at night, knowing there's a good layer of loc-tite on the threads, i'd go so far as to say anything over 88A durometer and blue loc-tite should be used even if it's just a weekend warrior.



Weather or not you weld the -8 bung on(don't recommend that) this process needs to happen, don't want to drop $400 for the FB hanger just for the abity to use -AN lines, this is it. Don't use a cutting disk, use an abrasive wheel the metal is not thick and it's easy to go through if you're on an angle.


Top came out nice, no raised surfaces and ready to match a drill bit to the bulkhead-style fitting i'll be getting later on, don't go for too long, you'll hit the rivet that hold the actual hanger on then you're really screwed.



The feed port on the base is rather thick so take your time and watch out for the hanger it's self.

B_Swapped93

Been so busy moving TSX parts like it's nothing, the car, now reverted to stock should sell soon, so I look forward to that. Went to JDMaddiction, picked up the Speed factory "B-series" tuckedrad, I needed the 2 ports on the same side, as my elc water pump sits right in the middle. More goodies ordered for next week, getting closer to N/A start up.



Pretty nice looking unit, this is the most recent revised version, which cuts down the size and some other small changes.





My biggest complaint is they force you to buy the 2 Spal fans, i'll be selling the fans as I already have the electric water pump, and that should be more than enough to keep this set up cool. It doesn't get very hot here, and this car will mostly only see night time highway driving, where the temps are naturally low. Also got my missing belt from last time.

B_Swapped93

So nice to get a warm spell here, had to get out to the garage and put some work in on the EG, got a slew of goodies coming in next Friday. My main excitement is the Sheepey built up pipes, that are suppsed to come in may 5th or sooner.





While not required, you may want to smack the pinch weld down, depending if you want the rad to sit a bit lower than what SF has pre determined.



Honestly WAY easier to install than I thought, just get a drill bit and decent drill and you're set. Yes, it's upside down, the ports need to be both on the left side, the K-series one has one on the right and left. That would be impossible for me with my electric water pump. It looks crooked for some reason? I can assure you it's not, either way my big Sheepey vertical flow FIMC will gide it.




I just used so M8 bolts and castle nuts I had lying around, you could put a washer on the part that touches the rad support, but as it sits it's very solid. Cutting oil recommended, my cobalt bits were overheating/floating even on that thin aluminum, put some on for the 2nd hold and it just ripped right through the tab, like it should.


Yup, i'm not going to be running fans, this rad is supposed to cool 30-40% more than a traditional style one. And with the electric pump and no thermostat, getting it up to temp may be a real challenge.




The first causality while working on this car, broke my turn signal housing off while smacking down the pinch weld. I think I'm missing a bracket for it, thus leading to this failure. I'm not too upset. I have something special in store for that side.



Those of you who know your Password:JDM products, probably know what i'm doing with the left headlight area. Having the sidewinder put the turbo perfectly imline with the headlight, going to have an intake pipe with a HUGE Proper-Fabrications V-stack going right to the turbo.

B_Swapped93

Not sure why this build has virtually no views, still going to post. As I hope I can show how to set up some of the not so common parts like the ELC water pump and wiring for some of the things related, debating doing a Racepak digital dash, but i'll see how far I get. TSX sold, so I'll be diverting a little bit from that into here, and hopefully have it running in N/A form by early-early may.



Put the old, nasty stock seat back in, so I can start gauging to see if I need to move the shifter plate forward or back. Also rowed through the gears.... no way I feel safe with the sloppy stock shifter it literally was lifting up from the base plate just from me changing gears as I would day to day. So the Ktuned race-spec shifter will be replacing it, feel it's a fitting piece to complement the stripped out interior.




Will also being doing the Speed-factory shifter springs that go inside the trans, debating on the "race-spec" cables, personally I think for a street car they're gimmicky, and my OEM ones will be fine but we'll see.



I'll be glad when that Ktuned manifold can stay on permanently, I should be done the water pump plumbing it's self this weekend if all my stuff came in.




fuel pump signal wire to trigger the relay, as i'll be completely rewiring my 450 pump with 8AWG to support my power goal for pump gas, I highly recommend this for any aftermarket fuel pump, even the entry 250 walbro.




Still need 1 more ground for the K it's self, but got my battery ground so now I can start testing some basic car functions. Hopefully I have a nice bunch of parts to take home tomorrow evening, i'll keep this updated.

dylspil

keep posting, progress is looking good!

CX-Adam

Way to go full HAM on the project. It looks good! Lots of neat little mods.

ssmrico

GOOD STUFF

B_Swapped93

Thanks guys!, I'm glad you like it.





Went to JDM-Addiction tonight, and bought a slew of stuff and ordered some more goodies for next week. Some nice OEM Honda parts in there too, gotta work early tomorrow, so I cant do a breakdown of each thing/description. But rest assured, i'll do a detailed post of any of the not-so common parts I got and explain why I chose them.