Crx_Civic

So, im going to be rebuilding my d16y8 soon for my auto class and i want some ideas on what to build....good parts, stroker kit, valvetrain...anything..this is gonna be my first build and i want some suggestions on what parts to use and just what to do..i plan on daily driving it so reliabilty in important...tell me what you think....No D-bashing!

BrakeDanceJ

D-series is a great way to make power for cheap.
What kind of budget are you looking at?

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

I would go for a complete build. All new rods, pistons, bearings, head studs, valves, valve springs, retainers, seals etc. Possibly even hone the block too. Turbo

Good parts...

CP/JE/Arias
Eagle/Crower/Pauter rods
ACL bearings
ARP headstuds
Supertech valves, valve springs, retainers

BrakeDanceJ

---------------------------------------------------------
You can do a cheap turbo setup:

Low boost T25/Manifold on stock internals for maybe 500 bucks.

But I'd recommend:
----------------------------------------------------------
$3000ish Turbo setup:

I'm going to agree, but here's my recommended (and my current) build list:

-YCP Pistons - $120
-SCAT Rods - $300
-ARP Headstuds -$120 (contact me, I have a new pair for the Y8 I don't need for cheap)
-ACL Bearings - $100

That's your bottom end, it can handle 700HP+, however you won't be making anywhere near that on a D-series.

If you want to get above the 400HP mark, and rev to 8000-8500 you're going to need head work.
Do NOT go with the skunk2 valves, anything else will do
-Springs $300
You can keep your stock retainers.

As for your turbo build, if you're building an auto cross car I'd recommend a smaller turbo, if you're dragging, a higher turbo.

Turbo - $200-$700
Manifold - $300-$500

You can optionally go with an LSD:
OBX - $300
or
QUIEF - $1000
----------------------------------------------------

research OBX vs Quief here on the forums

Crx_Civic

my budget is as low as possible (college student) but i wanna make a strong engine while i have it out. so im not gonna go cheap. thanks for the suggestions,

big-cat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeDanceJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">---------------------------------------------------------
You can do a cheap turbo setup:

Low boost T25/Manifold on stock internals for maybe 500 bucks.

But I'd recommend:
----------------------------------------------------------
$3000ish Turbo setup:

I'm going to agree, but here's my recommended (and my current) build list:

-YCP Pistons - $120
-SCAT Rods - $300
-ARP Headstuds -$120 (contact me, I have a new pair for the Y8 I don't need for cheap)
-ACL Bearings - $100

That's your bottom end, it can handle 700HP+, however you won't be making anywhere near that on a D-series.

If you want to get above the 400HP mark, and rev to 8000-8500 you're going to need head work.
Do NOT go with the skunk2 valves, anything else will do
-Springs $300
You can keep your stock retainers.

As for your turbo build, if you're building an auto cross car I'd recommend a smaller turbo, if you're dragging, a higher turbo.

Turbo - $200-$700
Manifold - $300-$500

You can optionally go with an LSD:
OBX - $300
or
QUIEF - $1000
----------------------------------------------------

research OBX vs Quief here on the forums

</TD></TR></TABLE>

dood i have not heard of scat rods or ycp pistons(havent looked into building my d-series yet because i figured it was only eagle rods and they are expensive i am going to look into these scat rods or what not.

Luserkid

Scat rods are good. We had them on our first all motor build. Held up a HELL OF ALOT BETTER then eagle did

91hybridDX

for more good ideas on a D build you can check out d-series.org or turbod16.com there are some veryknowledgeable d builders there and maybe you could get on a group buy for parts or find good deals. props on saving the SOHC!

big-cat

so i could practically have a built d-series for less than a grand if i know what i am doing(find a motor for cheap and but that setup above). damn i just got a hard on.

Murk 'EM

^kinda weird^

BrakeDanceJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i could practically have a built d-series for less than a grand if i know what i am doing(find a motor for cheap and but that setup above). damn i just got a hard on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, the list I posted is almost as cheap as you can go; as cheap as you'd want to go at least, and still as strong.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx_Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my budget is as low as possible (college student) but i wanna make a strong engine while i have it out. so im not gonna go cheap. thanks for the suggestions, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Vitara pistons and branded YCP pistons, they're the same thing.

There's a member on here that sells them, I had mine second-day-delivery from Puerto Rico for cheaper than the price of Vitaras (not shipped)! My buddy is running 400+ WHP on them no problems; They're rated for more power than you can make on a D-series. PM me for more information.

Scat rods &gt; Eagle rods

They're cheaper and are rated the same, not to mention you won't have to notch both the girdle and the block.

Crx_Civic

Ok so i went to the scat site and they sell a rebuild kit for 398.00 that includes:
"contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs (does not contain camshaft, timing kit or oil pump). Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30", i can also get it with a new oil pump for 520.00,. so they have reputable rods, but the kit dosnt come with those, so shoulod i get rods and then buy a rebuild kit elsewere.

Crx_Civic

Nevermind