00_Civic_EX_Newb

2000 Civic ex.

The smoke after sitting is apparently oi burning.

The mechanic suggests to rebuild or get a swap - and says as long as I keep oil in it, I will be alright for the near future so I have time to weigh my options.

My other option my dad gives me (hes ran Tranny shops for 40 years) is to take a gamble,, that it is more than likely the valve guides - and I could get lucky and just change those out and the problem would be solved.

What is your onions?

Oh, he also said to drop some engine restore in, that sometimes it works, but usually doesn't.




Modified by 00_Civic_EX_Newb at 8:46 AM 7/25/2008

blkegcoupe

do a leak down test or comp test first then you won't have to worry so much or do

robfrmny21

you can change the valve seals first if your strapped for cash, the motor only smokes during start up??

00_Civic_EX_Newb

yep. only smokes after sitting a while, and only for a few seconds (30 or so)

well.. I think the mechanic said it smokes constantly, but after the initial burn off its so little you cant see it unless its indoors (he left inside the shop overnight)

runs about a quart low every 3000 miles or so gauging from the previous owners oil change receipts.

fmrprojects

thats not that bad. my motor burns a quart between oil changes but i drive really hard on it.

blk92_d16

If it smokes upon decelation, it's probably your valve stem seals. If it smokes upon WOT all the time, your rings are done.

What color smoke?

00_Civic_EX_Newb

I don't see any smoke after the first 30 seconds - the mechanic had it idling in the shop and said he could see it, but that it was real faint.

I thought the smoke was white - but he claims ts 100% oil so I guess I need my eyes checked.

B18C5-EH2

How many miles on the engine?

Even if its just valvesem seals/valve guides if you replace those and reseal the top end and put it back together, I'd be willing to bet that with a minty fresh top end the bottom end would start to smoke soon after.

00_Civic_EX_Newb

150K.

maybe best off just driving it for awhile until I scope out a replacement engine

I only paid 2900 for the car - body is in "decent" shape - nothing major but both bumpers show some signs of contact with objects.

been waiting for all this to blow over before I got some pics of it, but this storm seems like its in the for long run.

B18C5-EH2

I'd keep adding oil until it's either consuming a ton of it, or like most other D16Y series engines, it spins a rod bearing and starts knocking.

...all the while I'd be saving up for a B series swap.

00_Civic_EX_Newb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...all the while I'd be saving up for a B series swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Heh, that means very little to me at this point, something to look into though.

With the new engine being the case, this B series, what do you mean, and is there a verified list of engines of this type I could be on the lookout for.

Also, what should I expect to pay for one of these B series motors?

Please don't confuse ignorance with stupidity - I just don't have a strong background in car repair / knowledge; ask me to build you a database, website, configure your server, fix your computer or write you a program and I'm in.

I was offered a cart of tools by my dad at 19 years old but I decided to waste the next 5 years of my life until I started school a couple years ago - but anyways, I appreciate this forum greatly and trust the opinions I get here.


BTW, i dont want a race car - just a working car. I hope that's not unheard of on these forums.

dividedas1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00_Civic_EX_Newb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, i dont want a race car - just a working car. I hope that's not unheard of on these forums. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha dude your posting on honda-tech in the eg/ek/delsol section. we typically dont build "race" cars here lol their lil econo cars

but ya a b swap would be nice. its not like having a race car, it would put a lil more pep in your step tho, and you get the same honda-reliability out of it

i really do believe that b16's were made to be beat on... they dont mind the abuse too much lol

00_Civic_EX_Newb

OK so tell me this...

Am I limited to any specific B Model engines with a Manual Trans?

I'm looking at the most I want to pay being $1500 on the engine total. 1600 if I have to.

I still have to then get an aftermarket cat and o2 to fix my CEL, which I might as well do if I am already dropping this much in it...

Sure hope the clutch is good for a while or I will really be broke.

diggin the 32 MPG city on my first tank (compared to the 16.5 I got on my 94 bonneville) .. been driving pretty sporadic considering its my first manual tans - but I got the hang of it mostly.

DestructoEH

I say that $1500 - $1600 would be reasonable for a B-series.

Considering you're driving a 2000, and you're on a bit of a budget, I would suggest a B18B from an Integra LS,GS,RS. You would want to source a motor from a 1996 and up Integra, because the electronics and wiring standards changed after 1996. This motor should do you very well as it's quite torquey and can definitely get around with little trouble.

Alternatively, you could buy a CRV B20 long block (complete engine minus a few components) relatively cheap and go to a junk yard and find you a suitable transmission. A little more torque than the B18B, but maybe slightly more cost effective. Make sure to pick up a compatible ECU for whatever motor you choose.

As far as parts are concerned to do the swap, do a little searching and I'm sure you can easily come up with the relevant information. Just about everything that can be done has been done here.

If you want a low mileage B18B, you can check out http://www.hmotorsonline.com . They import low mileage motors from Japan and have pretty decent prices. You can even buy everything you need for the swap from them, but at least figure out what you need first so you can cut costs where you need to.

Hope this helps.

hondamark35

pull that motor out.

it's up to you what to put back in it's place, just so long as its a good low mileage or rebuilt.

some things to consider when deciding what to get:

who will be doing the work? if you will, what are you comfortable with/experienced with?

if someone else does it, should you get a plug-and-play swap?

what's your budget? what are your performance goals?

00_Civic_EX_Newb

shop doing the work, not me.

$$$ is a factor -

looking for something that will run for years and give me good MPG - at least with the performance of the current engine, which to me seems pretty good.

civicjoe

I think the most cost effective choice would be to find a low mileage D16Y8 (your current motor) out of a 96-00 civic and swap it in. Everything would be plug and play and would keep the labor cost down. But, your also gambling that the 'newer' motor is in better shape than your current motor.

The B series motors these guys are talking about are going to run you way out of your budget if the shop does the work for you.

You could also sell your car and put the 1500 towards buying a car that runs a little better.

00_Civic_EX_Newb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could also sell your car and put the 1500 towards buying a car that runs a little better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the car "runs" great... truly.

After paying 2900 a week ago? I'd rather not.

2900 + 1600 for a motor = 4500 which is fair book value, sounds better than taking a 1500 dollar dump and starting over.

not to mention if I got a low mileage (50k or so) engine the kbb good value would be like 7300, for what thats worth.


Modified by 00_Civic_EX_Newb at 6:21 PM 7/25/2008