ls/vtec rev limit? (stock b18b1 block, b16 head ITR valvetrain)
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ls/vtec rev limit? (stock b18b1 block, b16 head ITR valvetrain)
alright i bought a swap from a guy i know from around where i live, he said he couldn't remember the specifics on the motor but he said he thought it had a rebuilt stock bottom end (thats all he told me, nothing about bearings or rod bolts) and the b16 head has ITR cams and valvetrain (almost sure on this, vtec tone sounds alot different than a stock b16). He told me it doesn't like anything above 7500 (thats how he worded it). i currently have the rev limiter set at 7500 in hondata and thats what i rev to.
Its untuned, but on a basemap. My question is, im going to assume its got a completely stock block, so what would be a safe area to rev to? It feels like its pulling like a bitch above 7 (kinda drops off until 7, then it pulls hard up to 7500 and it feels like it wants to keep going).
i know the head is good for 9000+ but im unsure on the block, if its untuned is it more prone to spin a bearing or have a rod bolt snap or anything? ideas?
btw heres 2 videos of me doing pulls up to 115mph, so you can hear how the it sounds and tell me what you think it is as far as cams [what kind of cams they sound like they are].
(in these videos the ignition timing was retarted a good amount so it was running kind of bad and felt really sluggish):
http://youtube.com/watch?v=1Pe7BZJ_ars
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vV00lBN0kBk
He told me it was Type-R cams and valvetrain, he wasnt sure if it was ITR or CTR, im assuming its ITR stuff as you dont hear that often of people putting CTR stuff in their motors. So ideas? What kind of cams do those sound like? Whats my safe range as far as revs?
Its untuned, but on a basemap. My question is, im going to assume its got a completely stock block, so what would be a safe area to rev to? It feels like its pulling like a bitch above 7 (kinda drops off until 7, then it pulls hard up to 7500 and it feels like it wants to keep going).
i know the head is good for 9000+ but im unsure on the block, if its untuned is it more prone to spin a bearing or have a rod bolt snap or anything? ideas?
btw heres 2 videos of me doing pulls up to 115mph, so you can hear how the it sounds and tell me what you think it is as far as cams [what kind of cams they sound like they are].
(in these videos the ignition timing was retarted a good amount so it was running kind of bad and felt really sluggish):
http://youtube.com/watch?v=1Pe7BZJ_ars
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vV00lBN0kBk
He told me it was Type-R cams and valvetrain, he wasnt sure if it was ITR or CTR, im assuming its ITR stuff as you dont hear that often of people putting CTR stuff in their motors. So ideas? What kind of cams do those sound like? Whats my safe range as far as revs?
#6
Re: (JKov240)
use your ear when you think it sounds like it is had it then shift! and set your limiter to what you think is ok it is your car you determine if it is safe or not! just listen!!!!!!!i was tought to drive by ear not tach so i dont even look at the tack i use me damn ear cause it dont lie to me but i have a bionic ear!!!
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Re: (mini-meEj1)
y do people just assume u can rev it to abillon rpms and make power? ur not gonna make power much higher than 7800rpms. y u ask? because low compression and a stock head= a shitty combo.
ls bottom ends have horrible rod bolts which like to strecth and distort the rod or just completly break it. do urself a favor and get a set of arp rod bolts for your motor and then get the damn thing tuned. end thread / this is rediculous with all of these threads that keep popping up. stop being cheap and tune the damn car so u can actually find out where you stop making power and then that would be where u set your redline!!!!!!!!!!!!!
people this is not a hard concept.
o and btw its very easy to figure out if you have an itr valvetrain. just take off the valve cover and look at your springs. if u have dual inner and outer springs on both intake and exhaust sides than u sir have itr valve train. but if you only see it on one side than you sir have a b16 valve train. just SEARCH before you post.
ls bottom ends have horrible rod bolts which like to strecth and distort the rod or just completly break it. do urself a favor and get a set of arp rod bolts for your motor and then get the damn thing tuned. end thread / this is rediculous with all of these threads that keep popping up. stop being cheap and tune the damn car so u can actually find out where you stop making power and then that would be where u set your redline!!!!!!!!!!!!!
people this is not a hard concept.
o and btw its very easy to figure out if you have an itr valvetrain. just take off the valve cover and look at your springs. if u have dual inner and outer springs on both intake and exhaust sides than u sir have itr valve train. but if you only see it on one side than you sir have a b16 valve train. just SEARCH before you post.
#11
Re: (tek9_ej2)
Listen very carefully, because although it's been said already, I'll make it simple.
LS bottom end + VTEC head does not automatically mean you have a high-revving VTEC beast. The weak point, and write this down, is the LS rods. They're not meant to go past around 7k RPM. If they do, they have a tendency to stretch, which is bad.
To counteract this is a simple solution. Get ARP rod bolts. They are tried and true. They work.
As far as what your redline is, after you have the rod bolts put in, purchase a chipped ECU, and get your car tuned.
Also:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if u have dual inner and outer springs on both intake and exhaust sides than u sir have itr valve train. but if you only see it on one side than you sir have a b16 valve train. just SEARCH before you post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC cam changeover usually sounds the same in a B16 head. Loud, and very noticeable. As for the rest of your post, search. It's all on here. All of it.
Trust me.
LS bottom end + VTEC head does not automatically mean you have a high-revving VTEC beast. The weak point, and write this down, is the LS rods. They're not meant to go past around 7k RPM. If they do, they have a tendency to stretch, which is bad.
To counteract this is a simple solution. Get ARP rod bolts. They are tried and true. They work.
As far as what your redline is, after you have the rod bolts put in, purchase a chipped ECU, and get your car tuned.
Also:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if u have dual inner and outer springs on both intake and exhaust sides than u sir have itr valve train. but if you only see it on one side than you sir have a b16 valve train. just SEARCH before you post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC cam changeover usually sounds the same in a B16 head. Loud, and very noticeable. As for the rest of your post, search. It's all on here. All of it.
Trust me.
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Re: ls/vtec rev limit? (Lordofdark176)
that guy who build mine told me that you can rev it till 8500 if you want but you stop making power around 7200, so ill keep it safe under 8000.
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Re: ls/vtec rev limit? (99_EM_one)
If its a STOCK bottom end then I wouldnt take it anywhere over what the revlimit for the LS.
Modified by 96 EX at 11:53 AM 12/11/2007
Modified by 96 EX at 11:53 AM 12/11/2007
#14
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Re: ls/vtec rev limit? (96 EX)
buying a motor that "he thinks" has stuff in it, id open it up and look.
As said before, people need to seach and use comon sence. pop the oil pan off and look.
/thread
As said before, people need to seach and use comon sence. pop the oil pan off and look.
/thread
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