xcivicdx

Well guys i got my stuff in the mail today brembo blanks with hawk hps pads and im going to install them tommorrow with my friend...well my question to you guys is do you have any tips or suggestions/comments before i do the instal.. also on the rotors theres this brown film not rust but it looks like someone touched one of the rotors with dirty hands or something like that.. i tryed to wipe it off but it just wont come off... does it really matter if it left on there after the install or do something else... i appreciate your time and courtesy...

IM ALL BOB

have you used a brake cleaner?

civicmandx94

You should thouroughly use some cleaner on the rotors before you install them. Oh yeah you might need to use an impact screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the rotors on, it makes the removal much easier. Good luck and God bless!

xcivicdx

ha i actually didnt think of that... thank you.. I have one more question actually... can someone find me a pic to show which bolts to unscrew to change that brake pads??? also your supposed to put grease onto the pads right or is it some other substance...

kommon_sense

go buy a haynes manual... $12 at autozone/wal-mart/etc.

xcivicdx

yea i actually have one in the mail(helms) but some info could help me out... ya know ...thank you..

kommon_sense

There are 2 12mm bolts on the backside of the calipers. The only other 2 bolts are 17mm (fresh in my memory because I changed my rotors a few hours ago). Spray some disc brake quiet or anti-squeal on the back of the brake pads (NOT ON THE PART THAT CONTACTS THE ROTOR). Let the stuff get tacky, then install the pads. You probably shouldn't be doing this without a manual. My helms showed up in just over a week. Wait till it gets here.

Anyways, unscrew the bottom 12mm bolt and loosen the top. IIRC, the caliper should just swing up and give you access to the pads.

One more word of advice... Follow the break-in procedure for your pads and rotors. If you do not, then you will be replacing one of them down the road...

[Modified by kommon_sense, 7:31 PM 4/4/2003]


[Modified by kommon_sense, 8:35 PM 4/4/2003]

clm

Get a Haynes or Chilton as a minimum.
Get a GOOD impact driver.
Fresh brake fluid (and Speed Bleeders).
C-clamp for the front pistons and something thick to use on the piston "screw in the rear.
Remember where everything goes.
Have a piece of string already attached the upper control arm or spring for the caliper to hang from.
A torque wrench that can go to 85 ft #s and retorque after about 25 miles.
Long stretches of road with no stop signs and very little traffic to break 'em in.

Goodluck and it's really not that hard.

kommon_sense

The rotors are held in place by 2 gold colored screws. They put up a good fight, so as suggested an impact driver is a must. I usually replace the screws with new ones. Only like $0.79 at the dealer.

Don't waste your money on speedbleeders. I've got a set. I tried to do the one-man bleeding thing and ended up with the softest brake pedal ever. Almost hit a few people. Bled the brakes again, but this time I used them like regular bleeders and ended up with a very nice firm brake pedal.

Also, I usually just get a box and set the caliper on it. Nothing wrong with hanging it via string/wire... Just a box is easier for me.