chevy power

Heres the deal, I should have known better but I washed out the neglected and dirty space under the hood. I do it all the time on my s10, and all the chevy vehicles I have been around, no problems with washing them out. I am of course careful but I don't take drastic measures like wrapping things up to keep them dry. I had a prelude for about 2 weeks. I took it to work and steamed cleaned it, it acted like a bitch for days.

My car is worse, I hosed it out and wiped it down. The speedometer goes up to 110 and varies all over, it goes up and down or sometimes doesnt move at all. I took the alternator which I just bought 2 weeks ago and had it tested, its good. I took apart most of the plugs I could see and they were not wet. I have a code p1208 air fuel mixture, and both oxygen sensors are throwing a code. What did I expletive up? Thanks.

chevy power

I did some searching on google. I believe my code was 1298. It is common for two wires to short out under the intake manifold and cause the same problems I am having. I am going out to check, I hope this is the fix I needed.

MidoriBG96

I had a similar problem, I had a ground wire loose. Check all your engine grounds.

chevy power

They Seemed good, how many are there?I got 2 on top,and thats it. I should probably claen then up to bare metal

MidoriBG96

not sure which car/engine you have but there are as follows:
1. Valve Cover to front bulkhead.
2. top of Transmission to frame.
3. wiring harness to thermostat housing.

I think thats it.

chevy power

According to my mechanic and his website; this is a common problem and solution with the 96+ Civic

Description: Speedometer went dead. Circuit 15 under-dash fuse blows. MIL comes on. Alternate scenarios are the speedometer begins jumping around wildly at random times and the fuse doesn't blow. Driving after the fuse has blown means that the car is running on the battery and results in a dead battery...meaning the rpm meter eventually goes dead while the car is running, then the car starts running very poorly, until finally the car won't run or start.

Engine:
D16Y7 1.6L SOHC non-VTEC 96+ Civic CX/DX/LX 106hp
Codes:
PO135 O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
PO141 O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input

Solution:
There is wiring harness bolted to the underneath side of the intake manifold which, due to vibration, eventually rubs through the wire insulation and shorts out the circuit...most often the speedometer/alternator circuit. It is hard to see and, without very close inspection by looking at the individual wires, looks just fine at first sight. (I searched very hard for worn wiring before giving up) Using electrical tape you can repair the wire insulation. Use extra tape around the bundle to insulate it from more rubbing damage. Clear the codes on the care, replace the blown fuse, and the problem should be fixed.

That is from another forum, its a common problem and was my problem circuit 15 fuse blown due to rubbed wires. Tapped the wires, checked the fuse and replaced it. All is normal. This is on a 98 civic lx

baller status

What a coincidence! My roommates friend brought me his 98 Civic LX with the exact same problems. I'm halfway through changing his alternator. I thought the regulator was bad because his headlights are blinking only when his engine's running. But he's throwing the exact same codes. Thanks for your post. I wish I'd seen it yesterday.

Sic_DA_Nine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chevy power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Engine:
D16Y7 1.6L SOHC non-VTEC 96+ Civic CX/DX/LX 106hp
Codes:
PO135 O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
PO141 O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had the same codes!!

it was just a blown fuse for me tho

chevy power

No problem, I wish I would have thought to search more on the issue. The bracket is a lot easier to take out than the alternator, two 12mm bolts, then wrap some tape around the wire.

chevy power

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sic_DA_Nine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had the same codes!!

it was just a blown fuse for me tho </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but the reason the fuse blows is because they rub the intake manifold support bracket, its hard to see but only a little rub will short out and blow the 7.5amp fuse. Did you check the wire?

baller status

Which harness is it exactly? There's quite a few under the intake manifold. The one going to the alternator?

chevy power

It has a blue plug. It is the little bit of exposed wire from the plug end to the tape that is there from honda. Once you are underneath the car its easy to see the bracket, take the bracket off and you will see the plug

chevy power

It has a blue plug. It is the little bit of exposed wire from the plug end to the tape that is there from honda. Once you are underneath the car its easy to see the bracket, take the bracket off and you will see the plug

Lisa Rogers

i am new here and just want to say THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! my mechanic had no clue what i was talking about or how to fix it, but you are describing my problem to a tee! he did not appreciate the advice i presented to him from this forum, but hopefully it will fix my problems!!!