95turbohonda

That is the bin i'm running. (u can only see the low cam fuel of course), but i have Vtec disabled, o2 disabled, checksum removed, datalogging added, fuel tools, gm 3 bar, 750's, etc.

I have not messed w/ the cranking, tip in, etc fuel multipliers, cold start, battery offset values, nothin like that yet.

95turbohonda

The driver you need for the GM 3 bar map sensor to work is what is automatically added when i go through the steps in CromePro of adding Advanced Boost Tools.

The GM 3 bar is GOOD... it was runnign perfect w/ my last D16 setup, and has been in the garage since... it was bolted to the firewall... nothing has touched it... so it can't be bad.

The only stock map sensor i have is the stock denso one that came w/ the B18a1.... I dont know if i can use it though because its from an obd0 car.


Can a Mod transfer this whole thread into the forced induction forum???
I dont see this as any boost problems at all... because its fine in boost... Its down low that its not running...

I'm thinking the vacuum fuel multipliers may be off.... HONDAS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE EASY!!!


and it is not throwing any CELs. it was before, but i fixed them. (brand new IAC and TPS)

Luserkid

It does look like your running rich as hell. Lower the fuel on column 2 and it should be able to stay with an idle.

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95turbohonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wide Band readings: If i turn the car on to ACC, the wideband turns on... but when i go to crank the car... it shuts off again and goes back on (like the radio)... So i cant get the reading... When i'm bliping the gas to keep it running... the reading jumps wildly from 12 to 17 on average. (my aem reads from 10-18)</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is a very easy fix, simply tap into a different power source. IMO the best way to go is to simply run the power lines to the ECU's power lines so the wideband sees the same voltage as the ECU. B1 & A25 are powered in Run & Crank so the wideband will remained powered even when cranking.
This may not solve your problem but it will show that you're running rich so you can fix it properly.

Note: your idle should run between columns 2 & 3. I like to 'box' in that area with one fuel and ignition value so the idle remains solid.

95turbohonda

Ok... i put all the values @ 30 in columns 1, 2, and 3...

Same issue and symptoms... Damn this is getting annoying.

watsvtecEK

bump help this guy out

vollrathian

i say tow it to a local shop

Preferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vollrathian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say tow it to a local shop </TD></TR></TABLE> If he's this knowledgeable, then he's not going to get any better results taking it to a shop.

Relic1

try this...
open your bin in crome, go to the advanced tables, select Injector voltage offset, top right of the screen pulldown and select your injectors.
back to your low fuel map, fill in the values from 500RPM/119 to 1296/409 with 103.
both of these make a big difference.

HiProfile

If you're unwilling to remove parts, as it seems you are, then the only thing you can really try is making different BINs with drastic fuel additions/reductions of 5-10% each time. I just can't stress to people who self-tune to start from the known working combination - a stock motor - then add 1 part, retune, repeat. Dealing with stacking errors sucks.

BTW that b18a1 map sensor should work fine. It should be a standard 0-5 volt, 1.75bar sensor. The only diff between obd1 and obd0 civic/teg MAP sensors are the fact that obd1 is usually tb-mounted and reads up to the full 11.2psi, and obd0 MAPs are remotely mounted and read up to ~10.5psi because of the way they are designed. In other words, 10.5psi on the obd0 sensor is the same output as 10.5psi on the obd1 sensor.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious...do you need a special driver to run the GM MAP sensor or do you really just throw it on and go?

This seriously sounds like a MAP issue. Boosted engine, shitty start-up characteristics, shitty pre-boost response, perfect running in positive PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crome lets you select it in the wizard, but you need to rescale the fuel values afterwards. In other words, the column headings change, but the fuel values aren't moved/changed. Also, ALL GM 3bar sensors are known to be non-linear for vacuum. They are off from 2-8 in/Hg. See as how the stock maps use 50% more fuel at 18 in/Hg than they do at 21 in/Hg at idle speed, a sensor that reports 21 in/Hg as 18 in/Hg (a measly 3 in/Hg!) means its dumping 50% more fuel than it should.

spork motorsports

so your saying hes running wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to rich? becuase he is running a map that sends a signal to run richer stock?

95turbohonda

i put the stock Fuel pressure regulator back on... same ****.

As far as teh injectors go... i had a new thought.

I have saturated R/C 750's. The d16 ran saturated, so these worked great for me... The b18a1 uses peak and hold injectors.... HOWEVER, i am still using my stock ecu (chipped) and wire harness.... only differance is i'm using an obd1 P30 bin w/ the b18b #'s.


Under advance tables... the only injectors i have to choose from are R/C 440s, and honda 240s. Where's the plug in to get 750's? I've always just adjusted for fuel injectors through the fuel multiplier that gives me a final multiplier value of .320.

This afternoon i'm going to check the terminals of the fuel pump... because something keeps shutting it off and throwing a CEL... So i'll check that, I'm going to take the air compressor to the fuel lines to ensure they're clear, keep the stock FRP on instead of the B&M, and see if i can find the stock b18 injectors.... Which would need a resistor box to work now, correct?? or no...

I'm confused now if i need saturated or peak and hold injectors... and or if i need a resistor box, or inline 10watt/10ohm resistors.

ARGH... questions / comments???

sireg6

That about trying another fuel pump relay...by buddy's ef was doing that exactly and we didn't know what it was since we thought the car cant start if it was a bad relay but then we just swapped it for mine and started right up and worked just fine good luck