EG love

Trying to start my fresh build for first time. Rolls over but fuel pump not priming..

If I ground a certain pin on ecu connector, fuel pump will prime. But still won't start while manually grounding that pin.

93 civic si
Stock harness
Built obd2 b18b1 block (82mm pistons, rods, bearings)
Stock obd1 b18b1 head
Obd1 distributor
No pcv, just valve cover vented
No crank sensor on block (obd1 should be in distributor?)
Hondata 4 bar map
Bosch 1000cc injectors
Phearable custom basemap
New OEM timing belt, water pump, tensioner.. New aftermarket oil pump
All grounds been triple checked. Even added one.
I had my rotor button screw come loose last fall. It wore a hole in distributor cap and dust sheild thing. Replaced those parts with new OEM ones. Possibly affecting cam sensor in dizzy?

I have stock fuel pump and stock wiring. After first start I planned on running new 10gauge wire to the new walbro 400 right from battery

hardcore97

main relay

2kdrift

crank sensor is in the dizzy so could be a problem with that or as stated could be main relay. I always like to check for injector pulse and spark sounds like you had no spark or injector pulse since you manually ran fuel pump and still got nothing also you always need to double check timing. You need timing fuel and spark for the car to start

EG love

Update: we switched the injector wiring and it fired right up, but its not running smooth. By switched the wiring, i mean i had the yellow with black trace wired to black wire on clip and the white wire wired to the red. But after reversing this the pump primes sometimes. I don't understand why injector wiring would affect pump priming?

Closed throttle the idle will fluctuate between 50-1000 rpms. The pump only primes half the time now. Once I had key on, and had no prime, then suddenly i heard the last second of the prime. Sounds like a ground issue to me but all grounds have been cleaned and checked half a dozen times. Even added a ground from valve cover to shock tower. I'm fabbing my test pipe so wideband will give an accurate reading (not reading at all now)

Main relay was removed and tested. Tested good.

EG love

http://s1132.photobucket.com/user/eg_love/media/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150802_162422_zpsxlljqli8.mp4.html

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't Phearable only do basemaps for 1 BAR MAP sensors? Considering you shouldn't be driving the car boosted past 1 BAR until it's properly tuned, and a basemap is only meant to get you started and driven to the tuner...

For the sometimes-priming fuel pump, find a friend with a known working main relay, and borrow it, see if that solves your problem. Since it's an intermittent problem, proper diagnostics would be a pain in the urethra. If the borrowed relay fixes it, then there's your problem - buy a new one.

For the fluctuating idle, have you checked the usual suspects? Smoke test for vacuum leaks? Cleaned IACV/FITV? The oversized MAP could also cause this, if I'm correct in assuming the basemap was made for a 1 BAR.

EG love

One of the specific boxes to fill out when ordering the basemap off phearable was to specify map sensor used so I assumed they used that info. I do realize it's not a final tune, the car hasn't left the yard and hasn't gotten up to operating temperature yet. I just don't know if I'm ready for a tune, or if I'll get to the dyno and have issues other than the tune itself.

Iacv was cleaned while engine was out. Never had issues with it last year. As for vacuum leak , I haven't tested for one, but the car is idling low so I didn't think that would be something to look at. Also not hearing any vacuum leaks.

I rewired the injectors last night and the car primes and starts every time.. Until the battery died. There must have been a bad connection somewhere. Just need to figure out if a tune will fix my issues now