how do I "check for continuity"
#2
a continuity tester. 5 bucks at autozone.
looks like this:
http://imageserver.isnweb.com/LIS26200.jpg
looks like this:
http://imageserver.isnweb.com/LIS26200.jpg
#6
thats probably a volt meter. just get what i showed you, its simple to use and cheap. you just connect the wire to a ground on your chassis or where ever and touch the tip to the wire or whatever youre testing.
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i think i have that tool at home. it has a metal tip and a black clip. my manual says check for continuity between a and b wires. what the hell does that mean
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#8
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Re: (ZipTieGuy)
Thats a test light, test light only shows if theres power to the wire you want, not continuity.
Usually what they mean testing the wire from one end to another to make sure power is still going through. Your basic volt meter will be able to do this. The volt meter has a setting where when you connect the 2 prongs it will make a sound (atleast mine does) to let you know that power is getting from one end to another. Connect one end to where one end of the wire is and connect another end to the other. If you dont hear a sound then the wire is bad and needs replacing.
Usually what they mean testing the wire from one end to another to make sure power is still going through. Your basic volt meter will be able to do this. The volt meter has a setting where when you connect the 2 prongs it will make a sound (atleast mine does) to let you know that power is getting from one end to another. Connect one end to where one end of the wire is and connect another end to the other. If you dont hear a sound then the wire is bad and needs replacing.
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Luserkid)
If you've got a multi meter that doesn't make noise (mine doesn't) and it has an option that looks like this (ohm meter):
then that's the one you need to use.
as far as I've always used the term, continuity has meant whether or not what you are testing is a closed circuit.... like if you use that setting above /\ and touch the leads together, you should get a reading.... it should not be showing much resistance.... that setting is used to measure resistance....
As far as I know, when you want to check for continuity between two wires, you want to check to see if they're connected electrically.... using an ohm meter will tell you this... if you get a reading close to the reading when the electrodes are touched, then you know that you have a full loop and the wires are connected.... if you get significantly less, there's resistance somewhere.... no reading at all means they aren't connected....
now if you're checking for voltage between the two wires, that's a different matter.... you'd need to use a volt meter to check for that....
then that's the one you need to use.
as far as I've always used the term, continuity has meant whether or not what you are testing is a closed circuit.... like if you use that setting above /\ and touch the leads together, you should get a reading.... it should not be showing much resistance.... that setting is used to measure resistance....
As far as I know, when you want to check for continuity between two wires, you want to check to see if they're connected electrically.... using an ohm meter will tell you this... if you get a reading close to the reading when the electrodes are touched, then you know that you have a full loop and the wires are connected.... if you get significantly less, there's resistance somewhere.... no reading at all means they aren't connected....
now if you're checking for voltage between the two wires, that's a different matter.... you'd need to use a volt meter to check for that....
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can someone tell me whats the easiest CHEAPEST way to measure continuity? I dont need all this fancy bullshit volt stuff. my reverse light is pissing me off. can anyone direct me to the exact tester i need
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Re: (ZipTieGuy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZipTieGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can someone tell me whats the easiest CHEAPEST way to measure continuity? I dont need all this fancy bullshit volt stuff. my reverse light is pissing me off. can anyone direct me to the exact tester i need</TD></TR></TABLE>
a $5 multi meter!. dude if you ever work on your car you should have 1 in your toolbox.
a $5 multi meter!. dude if you ever work on your car you should have 1 in your toolbox.
#15
Re: (ZipTieGuy)
OK, a continuity tester is very simple to use. You put one probe at the beginning of the wire you are testing, and one at the end. There should be no resistance. If there is, the wire is broken and needs to be repaired.
A multimeter is a very useful tool to have. You can check for current (Volts) and continuity (Ohms).
So, let's say you think you have a bad IAT sensor. you can then check for power (Volts) on the hot lead. You can check for continuity on the ground lead to make sure the wire isnt broken. Then you can check for continuity on the sensor itself (Ohms) and see if the reading is within specs. Within minutes you can expertly diagnose the problem and figure out a solution.
A multimeter is well worth the money.
If you are just checking to see if you are getting power to your reverse lights, you can use a simple test light. Ground it with the clip from the wire and put the probe in the reverse socket leads to determine if you are getting power. If you are, then your ground is bad.
I bet that the problem is in or around the tranny switch. Here's why. Reverse lights are powered by a simple switch in the tranny that is either open or closed, closed when the car is in reverse. The closed switch completes the cricuit, allowing power to flow through the light bulb. If I were you, I would check in and around the reverse switch at the tranny and make sure you dont have a broken wire. The switch is so simple that it almost never breaks.
A multimeter is a very useful tool to have. You can check for current (Volts) and continuity (Ohms).
So, let's say you think you have a bad IAT sensor. you can then check for power (Volts) on the hot lead. You can check for continuity on the ground lead to make sure the wire isnt broken. Then you can check for continuity on the sensor itself (Ohms) and see if the reading is within specs. Within minutes you can expertly diagnose the problem and figure out a solution.
A multimeter is well worth the money.
If you are just checking to see if you are getting power to your reverse lights, you can use a simple test light. Ground it with the clip from the wire and put the probe in the reverse socket leads to determine if you are getting power. If you are, then your ground is bad.
I bet that the problem is in or around the tranny switch. Here's why. Reverse lights are powered by a simple switch in the tranny that is either open or closed, closed when the car is in reverse. The closed switch completes the cricuit, allowing power to flow through the light bulb. If I were you, I would check in and around the reverse switch at the tranny and make sure you dont have a broken wire. The switch is so simple that it almost never breaks.
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Re: (qat727)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qat727 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ohm's law can suck a dick...im taking electrical systems at school right now..hate this ishhhhhhhhhh
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ohm's law can suck a dick...im taking electrical systems at school right now..hate this ishhhhhhhhhh
#18
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Re: (GarageAlchemist)
http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch
You can get that one /\ or just a cheap one like it. I've got several around. As long as it has an Ohm setting, you're set. You can figure out the rest of the stuff as you need.
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Re: (Cuda70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cuda70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, a continuity tester is very simple to use. You put one probe at the beginning of the wire you are testing, and one at the end. There should be no resistance. If there is, the wire is broken and needs to be repaired.
A multimeter is a very useful tool to have. You can check for current (Volts) and continuity (Ohms).
So, let's say you think you have a bad IAT sensor. you can then check for power (Volts) on the hot lead. You can check for continuity on the ground lead to make sure the wire isnt broken. Then you can check for continuity on the sensor itself (Ohms) and see if the reading is within specs. Within minutes you can expertly diagnose the problem and figure out a solution.
A multimeter is well worth the money.
If you are just checking to see if you are getting power to your reverse lights, you can use a simple test light. Ground it with the clip from the wire and put the probe in the reverse socket leads to determine if you are getting power. If you are, then your ground is bad.
I bet that the problem is in or around the tranny switch. Here's why. Reverse lights are powered by a simple switch in the tranny that is either open or closed, closed when the car is in reverse. The closed switch completes the cricuit, allowing power to flow through the light bulb. If I were you, I would check in and around the reverse switch at the tranny and make sure you dont have a broken wire. The switch is so simple that it almost never breaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i got a continuity tester. its a needle on one end and a clip on the other. the reverse switch has two wires/prongs. the helm is telling me to check for continuity between the two wires on the switch
first question, does this mean connect both prongs, or each prong individually and its correctsponding slot that leads towards the car?
second question, the clip on the tester is too wide, i cant fit it inside the switch to clip the tiny prong, can i just clip the wire?
A multimeter is a very useful tool to have. You can check for current (Volts) and continuity (Ohms).
So, let's say you think you have a bad IAT sensor. you can then check for power (Volts) on the hot lead. You can check for continuity on the ground lead to make sure the wire isnt broken. Then you can check for continuity on the sensor itself (Ohms) and see if the reading is within specs. Within minutes you can expertly diagnose the problem and figure out a solution.
A multimeter is well worth the money.
If you are just checking to see if you are getting power to your reverse lights, you can use a simple test light. Ground it with the clip from the wire and put the probe in the reverse socket leads to determine if you are getting power. If you are, then your ground is bad.
I bet that the problem is in or around the tranny switch. Here's why. Reverse lights are powered by a simple switch in the tranny that is either open or closed, closed when the car is in reverse. The closed switch completes the cricuit, allowing power to flow through the light bulb. If I were you, I would check in and around the reverse switch at the tranny and make sure you dont have a broken wire. The switch is so simple that it almost never breaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i got a continuity tester. its a needle on one end and a clip on the other. the reverse switch has two wires/prongs. the helm is telling me to check for continuity between the two wires on the switch
first question, does this mean connect both prongs, or each prong individually and its correctsponding slot that leads towards the car?
second question, the clip on the tester is too wide, i cant fit it inside the switch to clip the tiny prong, can i just clip the wire?
#20
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Re: (ZipTieGuy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZipTieGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i got a continuity tester. its a needle on one end and a clip on the other. the reverse switch has two wires/prongs. the helm is telling me to check for continuity between the two wires on the switch
first question, does this mean connect both prongs, or each prong individually and its correctsponding slot that leads towards the car?
second question, the clip on the tester is too wide, i cant fit it inside the switch to clip the tiny prong, can i just clip the wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>
from the description of what you've got, it sounds more like a current tester than a continuity tester.... continuity tester has a batter in the circuit to supply voltage in order to measure resistance. If you tool does not have a voltage supply built in, it's not a continuity tester.
that said, if you're testing for continuity on the reverse switch, one lead goes to one prong on the switch, the other lead goes to the other prong. You're trying to find out if the switch is open or closed... you're going to need to test through the switch and ignore the wiring.... if the switch is good, then you can see about running a continuity check on the wiring....
i got a continuity tester. its a needle on one end and a clip on the other. the reverse switch has two wires/prongs. the helm is telling me to check for continuity between the two wires on the switch
first question, does this mean connect both prongs, or each prong individually and its correctsponding slot that leads towards the car?
second question, the clip on the tester is too wide, i cant fit it inside the switch to clip the tiny prong, can i just clip the wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>
from the description of what you've got, it sounds more like a current tester than a continuity tester.... continuity tester has a batter in the circuit to supply voltage in order to measure resistance. If you tool does not have a voltage supply built in, it's not a continuity tester.
that said, if you're testing for continuity on the reverse switch, one lead goes to one prong on the switch, the other lead goes to the other prong. You're trying to find out if the switch is open or closed... you're going to need to test through the switch and ignore the wiring.... if the switch is good, then you can see about running a continuity check on the wiring....
#21
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Re: (qat727)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qat727 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from the description of what you've got, it sounds more like a current tester than a continuity tester.... continuity tester has a batter in the circuit to supply voltage in order to measure resistance. If you tool does not have a voltage supply built in, it's not a continuity tester.
that said, if you're testing for continuity on the reverse switch, one lead goes to one prong on the switch, the other lead goes to the other prong. You're trying to find out if the switch is open or closed... you're going to need to test through the switch and ignore the wiring.... if the switch is good, then you can see about running a continuity check on the wiring.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
this guy just explained everything to me through aim! so if your searching and you dont get it just hti me up! thanks qat
that said, if you're testing for continuity on the reverse switch, one lead goes to one prong on the switch, the other lead goes to the other prong. You're trying to find out if the switch is open or closed... you're going to need to test through the switch and ignore the wiring.... if the switch is good, then you can see about running a continuity check on the wiring.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
this guy just explained everything to me through aim! so if your searching and you dont get it just hti me up! thanks qat
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (ZipTieGuy)
There do exist two versions of the test light: powered and un-powered. One checks for continuity and the other checks for voltage. Neither of them can perform as well as a multimeter though.
If the test light you have has a battery in it, you have a continuity tester.
If the test light you have has a battery in it, you have a continuity tester.
#23
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Re: (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats a test light, test light only shows if theres power to the wire you want, not continuity.
Usually what they mean testing the wire from one end to another to make sure power is still going through. Your basic volt meter will be able to do this. The volt meter has a setting where when you connect the 2 prongs it will make a sound (atleast mine does) to let you know that power is getting from one end to another. Connect one end to where one end of the wire is and connect another end to the other. If you dont hear a sound then the wire is bad and needs replacing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
A powered test light will also double as a continuity tester. All the continuity selection on a DMM does is send a small amount of voltage down the wire. If it reaches from lead a to lead b, you have a complete circuit and thus continuity.
If there is no "sound" as you say, it doesn't necessarily mean you should replace the wire. You could also repair the open. You can't always replace an entire wire.
Usually what they mean testing the wire from one end to another to make sure power is still going through. Your basic volt meter will be able to do this. The volt meter has a setting where when you connect the 2 prongs it will make a sound (atleast mine does) to let you know that power is getting from one end to another. Connect one end to where one end of the wire is and connect another end to the other. If you dont hear a sound then the wire is bad and needs replacing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
A powered test light will also double as a continuity tester. All the continuity selection on a DMM does is send a small amount of voltage down the wire. If it reaches from lead a to lead b, you have a complete circuit and thus continuity.
If there is no "sound" as you say, it doesn't necessarily mean you should replace the wire. You could also repair the open. You can't always replace an entire wire.
#24
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well it worked for 5 minutes then i used it on a power circuit and blew the bulb. then i returned it and got a multi meter instead. its cooler cuz it has needles and doesnt feel like a cheap peice of crap
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