flip1199

Ok i read the instructions for testing the ignitor but i'm a bit confused on these last two steps:

"If there is battery voltage, then check the yel/grn wire between the ECM
and the ICM.

Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the ICM."

how do u check the wire between the ecm and icm? i checked the voltage with the ignitor on and got .25 volts. Is that normal? also how do u check the tach wire?

EE_Chris

When they say to check a wire BETWEEN two spots, more than likely its asking you to make sure its continuous, as in there aren't any opens or breaks in the wire. There also can't be voltage on the wire that you are trying to make a resistance measurement on.

drdisco69

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its asking you to make sure its continuous, as in there aren't any opens or breaks in the wire</TD></TR></TABLE>

flip1199

would i be able to still get spark if i had a bad ignitor?

EE_Chris

Depends. It is entirely possible that while everything is cold, you get a spark. But as things begin to heat up, they begin to fail.

drdisco69

I've also had several coils and ignitors test good with a multimeter, but not even start the car cold. New coil or ignitor and it fires right up. If you have a spare, it's always easier.

EE_Chris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've also had several coils and ignitors test good with a multimeter....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here. The problem with using a multimeter to measure the primary side of the coil is its ability to accurately measure resistance down that low. If the secondary side had a small internal short, the resistance reading might still measure fine, but spark will be for ****.