HELP!! Starting Issues Have changed so many parts already!
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HELP!! Starting Issues Have changed so many parts already!
I really need some advice here. I have the JDM B16A motor in a 93 Del Sol Si The car starts fine if its cold. If I drive and let the car heat up it wont start again till its been sitting for an hour or two. But it isnt running hot at all. It started doing this constantly it use to be every once in a great while. The only part I have put on recently is a torque damper. I am at a loss here dont know what else to do. Here is what I have change out already.
- OEM Main Relay (can here the fuel pump turn on)
- Ignition Coil
- Plugs & Wires
- Fuel Filter
Its wierd it cranks fine but just wont turn over doesnt sound like there is any spark but there is. If I give it any gas it smells like its flooded. I have no CELS sometimes if I lightly give it gas it will start but its a really rough start. What should I check next? Timming, Fuel injectors, Fuel Pressure regulator, starter I am so lost any and help is reall appreciated please help me!
- OEM Main Relay (can here the fuel pump turn on)
- Ignition Coil
- Plugs & Wires
- Fuel Filter
Its wierd it cranks fine but just wont turn over doesnt sound like there is any spark but there is. If I give it any gas it smells like its flooded. I have no CELS sometimes if I lightly give it gas it will start but its a really rough start. What should I check next? Timming, Fuel injectors, Fuel Pressure regulator, starter I am so lost any and help is reall appreciated please help me!
#3
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Re: (Varao)
you have to confirm that there is no spark when it does not start. check that, and get back to us. also, do not "lightly" give it gas when starting, that is how you flood it. either hold the gas to the floor, or don't hit it at all.
#4
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Re: (Rodney)
Since you've replaced the main relay with a new OEM unit, maybe take a look at your ECT sensor.
When the engine is cold and the ECT says it's cold, the starting injector pulse width is pretty high. When the engine is hot and the ECT is still saying it's cold, that same long injector pulse width will usually flood the engine and not let it start.
When the engine is cold and the ECT says it's cold, the starting injector pulse width is pretty high. When the engine is hot and the ECT is still saying it's cold, that same long injector pulse width will usually flood the engine and not let it start.
#6
Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you've replaced the main relay with a new OEM unit, maybe take a look at your ECT sensor.
When the engine is cold and the ECT says it's cold, the starting injector pulse width is pretty high. When the engine is hot and the ECT is still saying it's cold, that same long injector pulse width will usually flood the engine and not let it start.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When this sensor starts acting-up, the engine will get hard to start, on "warm/hot starts". The wax pellet inside the sensor has gotton lazy. Sending bogus signals to the ECU, causing it to flood the engine.
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the IAT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. When full warmed should read .5-.6 volts. You can use a resistor with a 330 ohm 1/2 watt spec, or one from Radio Shack part# 271-1113. Start the engine and let it warm up, then kill the engine. Put the resistor in the wire connector on the harness. Start the engine, if problem goes away then replace the sensor. Use this only for temporay testing, it will cause other performance issues. Meaning the ECU will think the engine is always warmed up, when it's not.
This sensor is also known to cause hot and cold starting problems.
When the engine is hot, the sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Flooding occurs, due too a improper injector pulse width. Unplug the sensor if you need to start the car in a hurry. The ECU will throw a code and go into limp mode, however you will be able to drive it.
When the engine is cold and the ECT says it's cold, the starting injector pulse width is pretty high. When the engine is hot and the ECT is still saying it's cold, that same long injector pulse width will usually flood the engine and not let it start.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When this sensor starts acting-up, the engine will get hard to start, on "warm/hot starts". The wax pellet inside the sensor has gotton lazy. Sending bogus signals to the ECU, causing it to flood the engine.
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the IAT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. When full warmed should read .5-.6 volts. You can use a resistor with a 330 ohm 1/2 watt spec, or one from Radio Shack part# 271-1113. Start the engine and let it warm up, then kill the engine. Put the resistor in the wire connector on the harness. Start the engine, if problem goes away then replace the sensor. Use this only for temporay testing, it will cause other performance issues. Meaning the ECU will think the engine is always warmed up, when it's not.
This sensor is also known to cause hot and cold starting problems.
When the engine is hot, the sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Flooding occurs, due too a improper injector pulse width. Unplug the sensor if you need to start the car in a hurry. The ECU will throw a code and go into limp mode, however you will be able to drive it.
#7
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Thanks for the help guys I found an ECT sensor at Autozone for $25. I am going to change that out. I didnt think it was the ICM due to the car starting period. Hopefully this will cure my problem. Thanks again you guys have saved me time and money!
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#8
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Re: (Varao)
Whoa whoa...we didn't say replace it. Test it to make sure first. We're not saving you too much money if it doesn't fix the problem.
As IVI said, on a completely cold engine, the IAT and ECT should be at the same resistance value and thus should produce the same output voltage. It'd be easier to try what IVI said too...a 330ohm resistor substituted for the ECT sensor on an-already warmed up engine.
.25c < $25
As IVI said, on a completely cold engine, the IAT and ECT should be at the same resistance value and thus should produce the same output voltage. It'd be easier to try what IVI said too...a 330ohm resistor substituted for the ECT sensor on an-already warmed up engine.
.25c < $25
#9
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Yeah I understand thanks again for the help. I hope this solves the problem. If it doesnt where would you guys look afterwards? It wouldnt even run if the ICM was bad right?
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