tuphatt

Okay fellas!

After installing a new cv axle, I was putting back the bolt on to the lower ball joint when I noticed the bolt was spinning. Meaning that as i tried to screw on the nut the bolt was spinning as well so I couldnt screw it on all the way.

Is there something that I am doing wrong or is that the way it suppose to be? It didn't happen to my other side. I hope, I don't need another lower ball joint because I am sure it will be a biatch to put together.

Another note, I used a ball joint splinter to separate the lower balljoint.

Anyhoot, the bolt is #3 and the bolt is #13

* yes, I did remove the cotter pin before i took it off.

Lastly, Is it possible to ghetto rig it. I am worried that if I use an air gun to force the bolt back on; it won't work if I need to take the nut to replace the axle again.

** I hate CV boots **

Your input and help is greatly appreciated!

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

i used a gun on mine because it spis if you use a wrench

B18C1 '96 Coupe

What about if you use a gun and it spins? as in my case. You want to make sure its tight on there. Otherwise your suspension will move all over on you.

tuphatt

When it is time, again , to take off the nut will an air gun work or will it spint with the nut on?

That is what I am worried about.

Also, I don't have an air gun. I use elbow grease and a **** load PB Blaster and Anti-Seize stuff.

I know I can go to a shop but, I am just paranoid about it not being able to come off and mo money will be needed OR am i just ignorant?

murmur9

mine did that **** too. did you hit the ball joint with a hammer trying to get it out of its place after taking the nut off? Plain and simple, your ball joint is broke. I tried the same thing you did....and about a month later in orlando, I hit the gas at a light to take off....BOOM, that bitch (nut) came off (i didnt have the carded key inplace{spelling?}) Honestly...to be safe you need to but a new ball joint and have the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in. cost me 40 to get it pressed.

but yea, you can ghetto rig it....I used an impact gut and needel nose pliers (sp)

Stik the NNP and grip the bolt as tight as you can, use the impact gut to tighten it. it will wedge the NNP between the metal...but it will keep it on...just pull the NNP back a lil more and clamp again with the skinny tip (if you get any grip at all) and do it again.....same with wrenches...but its easier with a impact gun.

tuphatt

I used the fork looking thing that they call a ball joint splitter

it looks like this: --[

Did you have to take off the knuckle and bring it in to get pressed or did you just bring in the car?

beaterdriver

what we do (with air gun), is have someone put all their force on top of the rotor to put pressure on the ball joint, and that works most of the time, or it could be stripped.

haccord2.2

Well just because your ball joint is spinning when you are trying to tighten it up with the castle nut does not mean that the ball joint is bad. This happens alot and I have had this problem when working on different cars, all you have to do is apply pressure to the ball joint by pushing down on it while tightening it up or us a block of wood placed on top of the ball joint and tap it with a hammer because the tapper of the ball joint is not down far enough to stop spinning. Also you should be able to do this with out using air tools I always do, then after it is tight don't forget to put in a new cotter pin, that is the important part.

95excoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by haccord2.2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well just because your ball joint is spinning when you are trying to tighten it up with the castle nut does not mean that the ball joint is bad. This happens alot and I have had this problem when working on different cars, all you have to do is apply pressure to the ball joint by pushing down on it while tightening it up or us a block of wood placed on top of the ball joint and tap it with a hammer because the tapper of the ball joint is not down far enough to stop spinning. Also you should be able to do this with out using air tools I always do, then after it is tight don't forget to put in a new cotter pin, that is the important part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is your answer put pressure on it and it cant spin...but I have heard that if it spins that is a good indication of a failing ball joint.

tuphatt

I used the NNP and applied the pressure and sure enough it worked! I didn't get a chance to read this in time, but nonetheless THANK YOU for everyones help and input! I went from

EK45VTi

Just find a way to torque the whole thing down so the ball joint kinda "locks"...

Take a crowbar or something, and find a way to "secure it"... then use your gun

DO NOT FORGET TO PUT NO.17 BACK AFTER THE BOLT GOES ALL THE WAY...

Harry_Randal

If you knocked on that ball joint with a hammer and squished the threads just a little its not gonna want to bo back on... the joint is gonna spin and spin.

In this situation I normally remove the joint from the control arm, get yourself a good set of vice grips... clamp them above the threades tightly (try not to score the metal to much) once you got them clamped on that ball joint end tightly, start threading the nut on and twist it all the way up the threads and all the way down the threads with a open end wrench or even a socket/ratchet... by repeating this you are slowly repairing any damaged threads.... do this until it feels decently easy to thread the nut on...

Install the ball joint back into the control arm and be careful not to damage the threads again... then keep pressure on the joint and thread the nut up... it should catch... and you should be able to tighten it

good luck