cryingsuns

My car:
1992 Hatch CX
Stock front disk brakes


Hey...first I've researched all the DIY threads and found a ton of info. I just had a couple questions.


So I just bought the whole rear assembly of a 95 GSR. Plus the brake booster, master, and emergency brake cables.

My question is that for the rear does the whole ABS situation matter, or is that the issue for the front only? Am I good to go to proceed? Do I need a proporting valve for just the rear?

Next...am I going to be alright having stock disc's up front and GSR disks in back?

Thanks in advance!

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

A car either has ABS or it doesn't. There isn't front or rear ABS. Your car doesn't have ABS so it's not an issue at all. You are good to proceed.

The prop valve works with the entire braking system, not just the rear. There are differing opinions with respect to swapping prop valves.


People with more experience than myself will know the answer better, but I believe what matters is the size of the caliper pistons.





eG.

Sonin Fury

iTrader: (11)

The GSR caliper are a dcent amount bigger than the stock. Do yourself a fave and replace them while you have it apart.

Rockauto.com you can get wagner rotors and ceramic pads for around $50

instrument

you dont need the master cylinder but you do need the 40/40 porp valve.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

For 92-95 civics you do if not correct size. Get a 4040 prop valve. You'd be best to get the bigger front disks too. But you can ride the stock ones for a bit. You don't need the brake booster. Only need the prop valve and either a 7/8 or 1" master cylinder.

94EG8

No ABS doesn't matter. Keep the stock 13/16s MC, use a '92 - '93 Civic Si prop valve (stamped 3040)

The rear discs will give you absolutely no braking advantage whatsoever other than reduced brake fade if you actually track your car. I've done this swap before, it's the Integra front brakes that make the difference, and this is where you need to swap the master cylinder with the 15/16s unit and 4040 prop valve (these parts need to come from a '94 - '97 Integra RS, non ABS)

cryingsuns

Has anyone tried this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tm...FSho7AodN10ANg

That way you don't have to change out your wheel bearing

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

What makes you think that would keep you from having to replace the wheel hub bearing?

cryingsuns

Because it comes with a new bearing installed in the assembly. Therefore, all I have to do is take off my old assembly, remove the studs off the new assembly, put my extended studs on the new assembly and put it back on.

I figure this is the best way to do it bc I don't have a press, and in my area it's $60.00 to have them pressed in, and $60.00 for the bearing and I don't have to leave my house.

Hope that makes sense. :)

94EG8

That's what you'll get no matter where you get the bearing from, the bearing doesn't press in, it's literally part of the hub.

cryingsuns

Now I'm confused, so even if I buy that hub assembly I still have to get the bearing pressed in, or the hub assembly pressed in?

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/11...placement.html

Sorry if I'm nooob'n.

cryingsuns

Also I got all my stuff off a GSR so I guess I have to get a non ABS break booster and MC and the proportioning valve from that SI that was stated. What a pain in the ***. Can't wait to do the front.

Deetz

It is spelled brake, lol

cryingsuns

As you can see my spelling bee queen, in my previous posts I had the correct "brake" spelling and usage, I was in a hurry. But yea I guess that's funny. Anything productive to add to the thread?

Deetz

Yes, reconsider the swap....

- it looks cool but gains no performance
- it add's weight
- cost $$
- labor

your car though, your choice

94EG8

No, I mean those $60 bearings are going to be the same thing, all you can get is a hub assembly, you can't get just a bearing, the outer race is actually part of the hub.

If you're only doing the rear the CX MC and the '92 - '93 Si MC are the same, all that needs to be swapped is the prop valve. If you're going to swap the fronts later you might as well just wait on the prop valve and swap the fronts and prop valve, master cylinder and brake booster at the same time.

cryingsuns

Deetz, I'm starting to think about going the route you're suggesting. It seems like a PITA for basically aesthetics.


94EG8, please don't internet punch me. So if I get that hub assembly, all I have to do is swap the hub assembly? I can pull off my old hub assembly, and put the new one on without having to press anything in? I'm trying not to have to press anything in, I don't have a press and all the stuff seems like a lot of work, I'm just trying to put extended studs on my car essentially and thought about doing the rear disk while I was doing all this work. I feel better knowing that all I need now is a proportioning valve until I do the front. I can get all that other stuff later.

94EG8

It really is kind of a pain in the *** for nothing. Those integra calipers tend to seize and need servicing often as well. The rear drums just sit there and work with no attention. I did mine purely for asthetic reasons, and while I was never really sorry I did it, it certainly didn't do anything for braking performance.

Yes, what I'm saying is you can either buy the bearing for $92 from summit racing, or for $60 from wherever you were going to buy it from originally, you're going to get the same thing, it looks like this no matter where you get it from:



Just so you're very aware no matter what you do you will need to swap the rear spindles out for Integra units and use Integra rear hub assemblies. If your current bearings are good there's no point in replacing them, simply remove the 32mm axle nut, slide the hub assembly off, hammer the old studs out and hammer the new ones in.

cryingsuns

Okay so here's my new plan...
I'm going to drop the rear disc plan for now and keep my drums, put that money into better pads, rotors, and stuff up front.

I'm going to take off my front and rear assembly's off, check my bearings, if they're fine I will keep them on, and put on my extended studs. I guess I really made this more complicated then I should have. Thanks for all the insight and help everyone.


Is the drum assembly hard to get off to put the new studs on?

94EG8

You will have to press the front hubs out to install extended wheel studs, there's no way around this, they don't make a hub assembly for the front, only a bearing. The rear is just the opposite.

No, make sure the parking brake is off, wack the face of the drum a few times between the studs and it should break free of the hub, you may need to back the shoes off but most of the time with a Honda this isn't necessary. If that doesn't work you can thread a couple of 8mm x 1.25 bolts into the holes in the drums to force them off. If all else fails heat the drum around the center hub and continue hitting the drum. Usually they come off without much difficultly though.