Fuel pressure question
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Fuel pressure question
Got a 94' civic dx with the 1.5L. I am going ahead with a turbo kit. I was doing research into fuel managment and found the B&M feul pressure regulator. I know i should go with the hondata but i just want to get this first. Would i be better off with a 10:1 FMU or an adjustible fuel pressure regulator?
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teal_dx has no idea what hes talking about. they solve different problems and are completely different devices.
first, avoid the B&M, its ****, get an AEM or Aeromotive if you get one.
Now for a small explanation. Both the B&M/AEM/Aero and the FMU are rising rate Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR). The difference is the AEM style will only go 1:1 above atmospheric pressure (ie: when you are in boost) while allowing you to adjust your static fuel pressure (ie: fuel pressure at idle). The FMU has a rate of 10:1 (or 12:1, etc, depending on which diaphragm you buy). The AEM style fuel pressure regulators are designed to help you keep enough fuel pressure while in boost but REQUIRE you to use larger injectors (and some kind of fuel management, ie: AFC, Hondata, Crome, ecTune, Neptune, etc). The FMU is designed to force MASSIVE amounts of fuel (10:1) through your injectors. This allows you to keep your stock injectors while still receiving extra fuel while in boost. While it sounds great in concept, its an awful way to tune and EXTREMELY dangerous. You get no real control, just an increase by multiplicative factors. Its a stop gap, and should not be used. At the same time you also don't get any timing control and will be required to run a missing link on your map sensor.
In short, avoid the FMU. Unless your tuner thinks you need one, dont waste the money on a FPR (and if you insist on it, avoid the B&M, they break easily). Also, don't bother with the VAFC, get a chipped ECU and a good tune.
first, avoid the B&M, its ****, get an AEM or Aeromotive if you get one.
Now for a small explanation. Both the B&M/AEM/Aero and the FMU are rising rate Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR). The difference is the AEM style will only go 1:1 above atmospheric pressure (ie: when you are in boost) while allowing you to adjust your static fuel pressure (ie: fuel pressure at idle). The FMU has a rate of 10:1 (or 12:1, etc, depending on which diaphragm you buy). The AEM style fuel pressure regulators are designed to help you keep enough fuel pressure while in boost but REQUIRE you to use larger injectors (and some kind of fuel management, ie: AFC, Hondata, Crome, ecTune, Neptune, etc). The FMU is designed to force MASSIVE amounts of fuel (10:1) through your injectors. This allows you to keep your stock injectors while still receiving extra fuel while in boost. While it sounds great in concept, its an awful way to tune and EXTREMELY dangerous. You get no real control, just an increase by multiplicative factors. Its a stop gap, and should not be used. At the same time you also don't get any timing control and will be required to run a missing link on your map sensor.
In short, avoid the FMU. Unless your tuner thinks you need one, dont waste the money on a FPR (and if you insist on it, avoid the B&M, they break easily). Also, don't bother with the VAFC, get a chipped ECU and a good tune.
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Re: (luti)
Thanks, you are the first person that actually answered my question, most people will just say im dumb and say "just get a hondata" instead of answering the simple question im asking, thanks.
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